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platatomi
Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2012
Posts: 465
Location: Los Angeles, California
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 Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 8:51 pm Post subject: installed new engine, some questions |
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This week I have finally gotten my new 1835 installed in the bug, upgrading from a stock 1600.
Specs are:
92mm thickwall cylinders
041 heads w/ 39x32 valves
mild cam w/ hydraulic lifters
light flywheel
filter pump
Weber ICT's
1 3/8 header
The longblock came from the builder already broken-in and ready to install. I just ran the engine for the first time, but I have a few questions remaining:
1. The front edge of the pulley(toward engine) is rubbing on the pulley tin. I saw this during assembly and tried numerous times to reshape the tin so it would clear, but no dice. Is it ok to just let it self-clearance while running? How long might that take? Keep in mind it is a minuscule point of contact.
2. What adjustments to the carbs should I need to make, coming straight off the 1600? I found that I needed to crank the throttle screws in several turns to get the engine to run at all, and it seemed to need a alot of initial timing as well. I was told that I would not need to change the jets in the carbs for the larger engine, they are 55 idle, 135 main, 160 air.
Keep in mind I have only run it about 10 minutes so far and have not had time to make any measured or methodical adjustments, I was a struggle just to get it to fire. Tommorow I will get to work with a game plan and hope to be driving soon! Thanks for your advice!
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'69 Beetle daily driver, fixing things as I go...
Update -
No longer daily driver but still fixing things... |
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platatomi
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Joined: August 09, 2012
Posts: 465
Location: Los Angeles, California
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 8:09 am Post subject: |
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I think I will just start the engine, and hold a knife against the edge of the pulley. It's aluminum so it should cut down nicely.
What about the carbs? I believe the instructions from redline say that the speed screws should be in no more than 1.5 or 2 turns. What if I am forced to turn them in further to get the engine to idle?
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Kfeher2000
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Joined: November 03, 2014
Posts: 38
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 9:03 am Post subject: |
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| platatomi wrote: |
What about the carbs? |
The carbs will be too lean for the 1835, it will pop and the heads will overheat, you'll need to get the proper jets and venturis for your displacement (contact a Weber expert) |
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platatomi
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Joined: August 09, 2012
Posts: 465
Location: Los Angeles, California
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 10:00 am Post subject: |
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| Kfeher2000 wrote: |
| platatomi wrote: |
What about the carbs? |
The carbs will be too lean for the 1835, it will pop and the heads will overheat, you'll need to get the proper jets and venturis for your displacement (contact a Weber expert) |
I dont believe ICT't have removable venturis. I know they are a little small but they should work just fine. Just wondering if its normal that the speed and mixure adjustments may need to be outside of the normal range.
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michla
Samba Member
Joined: January 17, 2003
Posts: 331
Location: Wasilla, AK (yes, there's drag racing up here !)
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 10:05 am Post subject: |
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| platatomi wrote: |
I dont believe ICT't have removable venturis. I know they are a little small but they should work just fine. Just wondering if its normal that the speed and mixure adjustments may need to be outside of the normal range. |
If you really want to get crazy, a competent carburetor service shop like Redline (just one) can actually machine your venturis to you specs...but then you're stuck with your decision so you have to educate yourself what you actually need.
That said, venturis that are small for the engine are FAR better than venturis that are too large, at least for streetable use.
135 mains sound a tad small for that engine. Better to go rich at first, than lean--especially if you're advancing the timing more than 20 degrees--but be sure of your distributor driveshaft orientation install in relation to the pulley degrees (where the crank is in relation to the distributor driveshaft). You'll find out what lean is when you start loading the engine driving the car around. |
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smkn_vw
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Joined: August 22, 2004
Posts: 809
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 10:18 am Post subject: |
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| platatomi wrote: |
| I think I will just start the engine, and hold a knife against the edge of the pulley. It's aluminum so it should cut down nicely. |
May throw balancing off and shorten engine life especially if you're planning to rev high rpm's I wouldn't touch it just cut or change the tin.
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platatomi
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Joined: August 09, 2012
Posts: 465
Location: Los Angeles, California
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 11:07 am Post subject: |
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| michla wrote: |
| platatomi wrote: |
I dont believe ICT't have removable venturis. I know they are a little small but they should work just fine. Just wondering if its normal that the speed and mixure adjustments may need to be outside of the normal range. |
If you really want to get crazy, a competent carburetor service shop like Redline (just one) can actually machine your venturis to you specs...but then you're stuck with your decision so you have to educate yourself what you actually need.
That said, venturis that are small for the engine are FAR better than venturis that are too large, at least for streetable use.
135 mains sound a tad small for that engine. Better to go rich at first, than lean--especially if you're advancing the timing more than 20 degrees--but be sure of your distributor driveshaft orientation install in relation to the pulley degrees (where the crank is in relation to the distributor driveshaft). You'll find out what lean is when you start loading the engine driving the car around. |
Thanks, I will drive it some and check the plugs, and get back with my findings.
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'69 Beetle daily driver, fixing things as I go...
Update -
No longer daily driver but still fixing things... |
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mark tucker
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Joined: April 08, 2009
Posts: 23937
Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 11:56 am Post subject: |
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| the tin needs tapd back or rather forward. it is probably contacting the oil pump nuts/studs and need some dings so the tin can go back where it should be.dont let it clearance it's self. as for crabs....I would sell off the singles and get a set of hpmx 40's for it. dont forget to include the builder in all of this, he can have a lot to say. |
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platatomi
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Joined: August 09, 2012
Posts: 465
Location: Los Angeles, California
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 12:07 pm Post subject: |
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Man, I have had that pulley on and off so many times! And its much more diffcult now that the engine is in the car. I think the real problem is the crappy bugpack pulley, it really needs a shin or something to space it back out. I could also install my old german pulley, but I really wanted the degree marks.
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michla
Samba Member
Joined: January 17, 2003
Posts: 331
Location: Wasilla, AK (yes, there's drag racing up here !)
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 12:10 pm Post subject: |
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| platatomi wrote: |
| but I really wanted the degree marks. |
you can get degree mark decals specifically made for the VW pulley, but of course, it's not as "pretty" as the billet-aluminum one you have  |
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