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Fuel injection relief here!
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huelsdonk
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2015 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been checking my plugs every time, but after reading more i'm wondering if you might be on to something. The injector plugs definitely seat well. I've been reading horror stories everywhere about female plug sides for this whole system ending up getting "worn out." I will go and check all my connections again and see if anything comes up funny. maybe its time to pull the plug from the ecu and check continuity though everything. thanks for the help.
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huelsdonk
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well my wonderful woman bought me a microsquirt for my birthday!!!! Its on the way and I will start my build thread asap.
D-Jet for sale!!!!!
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tnkdedhed
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi everyone, have had this 72-73 type 3 (sqrbk) 4 three yrs, I am having trouble with efi system, tryed 2 start and block flooded with fuel. After replacing the injecters, cold start valve and control unit. Tryed to start and now car idles high and motor surges. Is it time 4 carbs. Tanks Tim
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not time for carbs yet, and please don't throw more parts at it until you do a little targeted diagnosis. That's the expensive ways to go.

Check for leaks in all your vacuum hoses. Those can cause rich running and make it surge. If they check out good (including any under the plenum) then get back to us.

How much of a hurry are you in? Camarillo is near a few Samba folks.
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VwTravis
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Everyone. For the past couple weeks I have been cleaning and painting my Square's engine and fuel injection components. One of the things that really bothered my about the engine was the faded/brittle wiring harness. Digging through my type 3 FI parts stash I found an extra wiring harness that I forgot about. Only difference between the two is the location of the wire in the pictures. Does anyone happen to know what this wire is? I had labeled it as the starter wire. The car in question is my 73 squareback with a 70 engine.

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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look closely at the white wire covering and you will probably find a terminal number, which will be a good clue.
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VwTravis
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KTPhil wrote:
Look closely at the white wire covering and you will probably find a terminal number, which will be a good clue.


Thanks, I would of never guessed to do that. To tell you the honest truth I never realized they were numbered Embarassed . Well I looked and both harnesses have 2 wires on the connector numbered 31 and 18. I did a quick google search and it appears that these go to the starter (Starter Terminal No. 50). I'm not sure if the wire on the nicer harness will reach the starter, it seems too short. I'll have to see once I put the engine back in.
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Paul Kuyt
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 6:15 pm    Post subject: 71 squareback fuel injection question... Reply with quote

Today I just bought my first type 3. Currently have a 64 Double cab and 2 beetles. The squareback is a project and having never owned one I don't know much about these. Mine is a 1971. First question... Are they all fuel injected? The guy I bought it from says it needs a fuel pump. The tank is out of the car so i asked if he could show me the motor running. He opened the deck in back and sprayed fuel in an opening in the middle of the engine bay and it started right up and would run fine as long as he sprayed fuel into the opening. I assumed that was the carburetor... Never thought about Fuel Injection, all of my stuff is carburated. I put the car in my warehouse since I won't have time to touch it for a few weeks. The car has been sitting stored indoors since 1980. Any tips on what I should do to give me the best shot at getting this thing running short of hiring someone to sit in the back with a fuel spray can as I drive? Thanks for the help! Shocked
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Donnie strickland
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's lots of info on this in the forum, but it can be really frustrating trying to corral all of it into one place -- we need a "How to Get Your Injected Type 3 Running After It's Been Sitting" FAQ. Very Happy

It's best to start a separate thread for your car, so that way it's easier for folks to keep track of what's been done and which questions have already been asked and answered. And give us lots of pictures! We like pictures.
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sjbartnik
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 7:01 pm    Post subject: Re: 71 squareback fuel injection question... Reply with quote

Paul Kuyt wrote:
Today I just bought my first type 3. Currently have a 64 Double cab and 2 beetles. The squareback is a project and having never owned one I don't know much about these. Mine is a 1971. First question... Are they all fuel injected? The guy I bought it from says it needs a fuel pump. The tank is out of the car so i asked if he could show me the motor running. He opened the deck in back and sprayed fuel in an opening in the middle of the engine bay and it started right up and would run fine as long as he sprayed fuel into the opening. I assumed that was the carburetor... Never thought about Fuel Injection, all of my stuff is carburated. I put the car in my warehouse since I won't have time to touch it for a few weeks. The car has been sitting stored indoors since 1980. Any tips on what I should do to give me the best shot at getting this thing running short of hiring someone to sit in the back with a fuel spray can as I drive? Thanks for the help! Shocked


It came from the factory with fuel injection as all US-market Type 3s did from 1968 onward. However, a lot of them have been converted to carbs over the years. Usually the conversions are to dual carburetors so they'll fit under the decklid but every once in a while some jackass puts a single carb kit on which requires the engine cover to be cut. You've seen it, did it have a carb, two carbs, or FI?
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Donnie strickland wrote:
There's lots of info on this in the forum, but it can be really frustrating trying to corral all of it into one place -- we need a "How to Get Your Injected Type 3 Running After It's Been Sitting" FAQ. Very Happy

It's best to start a separate thread for your car, so that way it's easier for folks to keep track of what's been done and which questions have already been asked and answered. And give us lots of pictures! We like pictures.


Yeah, we should make some sort of generic "How to get your Injected Type 3 running after it's been sitting"FAQ.
We could start with replacing ALL of the fuel hoses with new ones (including the short ones on the injectors too). You need 25 feet of 5/16ths hose, and 34 FI style hose clamps.
Possible replacements for the existing Bosch fuel pump include the Airtex E2000 (for an 85 to 89 ford ranger frame rail mounted pump), or it's equivalent.
Needing to match the ECU with the MPS (if having to replace 1 or the other).
Using the mechanical AAR to replace a faulty electric one.
Things like that. I'm sure others will chime in too.Wink
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
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nogoodwithusernames
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
Donnie strickland wrote:
There's lots of info on this in the forum, but it can be really frustrating trying to corral all of it into one place -- we need a "How to Get Your Injected Type 3 Running After It's Been Sitting" FAQ. Very Happy

It's best to start a separate thread for your car, so that way it's easier for folks to keep track of what's been done and which questions have already been asked and answered. And give us lots of pictures! We like pictures.


Yeah, we should make some sort of generic "How to get your Injected Type 3 running after it's been sitting"FAQ.
We could start with replacing ALL of the fuel hoses with new ones (including the short ones on the injectors too). You need 25 feet of 5/16ths hose, and 34 FI style hose clamps.
Possible replacements for the existing Bosch fuel pump include the Airtex E2000 (for an 85 to 89 ford ranger frame rail mounted pump), or it's equivalent.
Needing to match the ECU with the MPS (if having to replace 1 or the other).
Using the mechanical AAR to replace a faulty electric one.
Things like that. I'm sure others will chime in too.Wink


Bob, I LOVE that idea. Would have been super useful when I first got my square. Especially the information like the fuel line and clamps, what size all the vacuum lines are, etc. (A couple other things that are floating around in my head somewhere... Rolling Eyes ) Instead of having to search through all the forum for that info it's all right there in a sticky.
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(Conversion thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=732508&highlight= or https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=151375&sid=f0542d44a322d290c29d6609fac7f215 )
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EverettB Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made a thread, please go post in it with any tips:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=624072
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Donnie strickland
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Everett!
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brotherbill
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 7:14 pm    Post subject: 1970 SqBk FI wiring questions Reply with quote

I have been sorting through the riggins of the PO and still have a few loose wires.

I added the second relay that mounts under the dash as it had been removed.

I found how the PO had direct wired the fuel pump using the one of the three wires in bundle #13 under the dash. I ran the blue and white wire from #13 to the relay and wired in a hot and ground. The fuel pump cycles after a couple of seconds and the systems is working.

My questions are: Where do the red and grey wires go? I checked and they are neither grounded nor hot. Possibly they were to be ground and hot...

My second question is in the engine compartment at the cold start injector/valve there is a bundle of 3 wires, two go into the the cold start injector and the third, white is cut. Where should this go? Maybe the temp sensor.

I also have a single large sleeved wire (white) coming through the firewall separate from the main bundle and to the right (passenger side) I checked ground on it and did not find continuity. It does look like a ground. It is also just to the left of the cold start injector valve

And two final observations. My pressure regulator whines when the system is first started for a few minutes. I have not check the pressure yet. Is this normal?

My fuel pump, after the 2 second start delay runs continuously, is this correct? Normal?

Performance is: idles nice, revs decent, throttle control is clicking nicely, lacks power on hills. no smoke on start up and no pull through smoke on down shifts. Feels 85% to me. If that makes sense.

Thanks - I'm new to VWs and the D-jet.
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Happyfolk
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tram, I have a '79 CA bus with the 13-pin double relay. My old relay seems to be shot with occasional loss of fuel pump power. I have the correct 13-pin relay on order arriving soon but have an 11-pin laying around.

Just curious: What would be the consequences of running this system with the 11-pin relay in there. I tried it and it seems to run fine, but I saw a post from germansupplyscott saying that cylinder 4 would misfire if the 11-pin relay was used so I'm letting the bus sit until the correct relay arrives. Any potential damage to the system using the 11-pin?

Ratwell just says "The 2 extra leads of the later style was due to the fact that the 79 CA ECU didn't require the series resistors anymore (it used only the resistance of the harness) and it had to power the electronic ignition model. If you fry the relay purchase the correct one for your bus."
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brotherbill
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 7:10 pm    Post subject: fuel pressure drop rate Reply with quote

Put a pressure gauge on the FI system today and it read 30lbs when i turn power on but did not start the car, ran the car and it kept 30. Shut off the car and it dropped quickly but smoothly to around 14 lbs (4 seconds) and then down to 0 in about 35 seconds - maybe less. Should the system be holding pressure longer after shut-off?
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69fasty69
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 2:50 pm    Post subject: Computers Reply with quote

Ive been reading this forum for a while this is my first post.

I saved a 69 fastback this Fall. It had serious rust rott so i cut everything out and have been slowly piecing it togeather. Its cuttently without pans.

My next door neighbors kid showed interest and i helped him buy a 71 fastback. We got it home with assurances it ran in the fall and the owner had several other projects. Anyways we got it home and tried starting it. It has strong spark but no fuel. It runs on starting fluid.

I started diag by checking the fuel pump, its new and pumps when the fuel pump relay terminal 85 is grounded. But does not turn on at all when its being cranked over.

I tested the main relay it tests good and works like it is supposed to

I pulled the computer plug off and checked for power on 23 and 24 it has power. I checked for ground on 11 and ground at the injector grounding point they are good.

Pulled the injectors out of the head and turned the car over, no spray

Checked that the air regulator ,cylinder head temp sensor, throttle valve enrichment switch, cold start valve,injectors, cold start switch, air intake temp switch were plugged in

I dont have a Bentley manual so being stumped i tried plugging my computer from my 69 into it. It immediately started smoking the second i turned the key on.

I ordered a new 1971 Ecu and wiring harness off eBay. Im guessing Dead short somewhere but not sure where to start looking.
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brotherbill
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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 10:09 am    Post subject: 69 fasty Reply with quote

possibly the PO hooked up the fuel pump wrong when they installed it, switching pressure out with the return hose. It should kick on after about two seconds with the ignition on. You can hear it if you crawl under the car.

Did you change the the fuel filter? Pull the lines of both the pump and filter to make sure gas is getting that far. You should likely replace those lines anyway.

I'm liking my FI now that i have it running. Good luck.
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69fasty69
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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 10:25 am    Post subject: Brotherbill Reply with quote

Ugg.. So 16 hours of diagnosis later..

New engine wiring harness because old one was chopped up
New ECU old one tested bad
New vacuum lines
Cleaned every ground point and terminal and relay and connector that has to do with the engine.

Uninstalled the fuel pump today trying to figure out why it was running but not making fuel pressure after taking it off and cleaning it and bench testing it, finding it good. Put it back on and figured out it was running backwards pushing fuel into the tank pulling it the other way thru the return line.

Ran the battery down to 11 volts testing things. Got my nice charger from my house and hooked it up.. It says terminal clamps reversed.. I look nope the positive terminal is hooked to the red positive charger clamp.. I re-hook them back on with battery disconnected from the car. Same warning light on charger. I get irritated and hook them backwards. It immediately starts charging. I grab my Fluke multi meter. It says the same thing. The battery is assembled backwards. It has the polarity reversed. The case is marked wrong, Even the terminal sizes are backwards. I hook it back to the car and.. It starts right up.
Sometimes the simplest of things are the hardest to find. When you take the most basic things for granted .
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