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Clutch slip after engine rebuild
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scrivyscriv
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 2:30 pm    Post subject: Clutch slip after engine rebuild Reply with quote

My clutch is slipping slightly in 3rd and 4the gear on hard acceleration, in my 1971 bus. Just rebuilt the engine - flywheel was resurfaced and the depth is about 21.5mm, but I reused the pressure plate and disc (disc thickness checked good) from my previously running beetle.

Is the slipping normal while the clutch disc breaks in? What's the best thing to do right now? I hate to change the clutch since I had the engine balanced. I just don't want to be stuck on the side of the road. Either way I just don't know whether I need to replace it or not.
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catahoula lou
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have the recommended 1/2" (or any) clutch pedal play? May be too tight...
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Dauz
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have proper "play" in the pedal? Maybe you just need a clutch adjustment.

Last edited by Dauz on Wed Apr 22, 2015 8:36 pm; edited 1 time in total
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gt1953
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

clutch is miss adjusted. Weak pressure plate possibly.
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modok
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Happens a lot! Problem is the engine is making more torque! isn't that good tho??
You might have balanced a tired pressure plate.......that's a bummer.

Try a centerforce or copperhead clutch disk. About 20-30% more holding power than the average stock disk with the same pressure plate.
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Dauz
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

modok wrote:

Try a centerforce or copperhead clutch disk. About 20-30% more holding power than the average stock disk with the same pressure plate.


The copperhead + KEP stage 2 held VERY well with my 144hp 2074cc in a type 1
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kamesama980
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sure the resurfaced flywheel is exactly right? Sure the pplate isn't worn a little too? .020" (.5mm) is enough on an old toyota to be the difference between towing 6klbs and not getting over 30 mph.

Found that out with a bad-used flywheel for my Cressida that was resurfaced without the .020" step. few years later put it my truck and pulled 6klbs (way more than it's rated) 300 miles...twice over 3 years/30k miles I had it.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oil leak from the tranny or flywheel or during installation
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scrivyscriv
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I'd be willing to spend the extra money on a Copperhead disc if it would give me a good shot at NOT replacing the pressure plate yet (Let me stress, this is 100% due to wanting to keep the engine balanced!).
Honestly, I did not really understand pressure plate clamping pressure, disc thickness and flywheel-to-pressure-plate depth very well when I sent my parts out for balancing. If I had known better, I would have just spent the extra hundred up front and put a new Sachs clutch kit on, instead of wasting my time balancing a weak used PP.

I think either way, even if I end up replacing the PP anytime soon, the Copperhead disc looks like a good part to have on just a stocker bus engine.

The clutch looks like it has a little more freeplay than it needs, eyeballed at the pedal.. the pedal is definitely not releasing too high.
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scrivyscriv
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After doing some more research, I think my flywheel is the problem..
I measured .844" from the pressure plate mounting surface to clutch surface, which is almost .5mm deeper than the 21mm spec.

Seems like no matter what I do now, the engine balance WILL be jacked up.. so should I take the flywheel back and have them cut the .5mm step down? I didn't measure the flywheel depth before I took it in so I don't know how much material they actually removed.
I went ahead and ordered a Daikin street disc and a Brazil Sachs plate.
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modok
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is not enough to make a difference really, as disks and pressure plates vary as much, or more.
Flywheel book says .830-.835"

Get the new disk and bolt the pressure plate on, and observe the ANGLE of the springy fingers. You want them near flat. If the middle is pointing outward then cut the flywheel some more, of they are almost flat across or slightly inward, leave it.
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scrivyscriv
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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not familiar with how clutches can fail, but I did not expect to find what I did today... The disc lining had something like a gummy consistency. Left smear marks around the inner contact area of the flywheel. Y'all ever seen this before?

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Robert in Memphis
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scrivyscriv
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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bolted up a new Daikin street disc with a new Brazil Sachs pressure plate and the difference is night and day. Accidentally barked tires twice downshifting from 4 and 3!
Thanks for the direction and input yall.
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Dr OnHolliday
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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad its working but that flywheel surface is substandard, especially considering the other new parts.
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modok
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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not perfect but probably good enough. I think the disk was his main problem, looks like its reaction to hard use was SMEARING into a mess LOL
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scrivyscriv
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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah it sucks that my flywheel got abused because of the disc slipping. I had it turned and balanced during the build. The resin came off but there are some small burn marks.
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Robert in Memphis
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jfats808
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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless you're running a bus, that flywheel is too heavy. Call a shop and get a balanced German vanadium crank that's 13bs or less.
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scrivyscriv
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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jfats808 wrote:
Unless you're running a bus, that flywheel is too heavy. Call a shop and get a balanced German vanadium crank that's 13bs or less.


It's in a bus
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