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mrbowman Samba Member
Joined: December 23, 2012 Posts: 7 Location: Altona, PA
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Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:24 pm Post subject: 1960 turn signal switch replacement |
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Looking for some tips and or advice on replacing turn signal switch on my 60'. Starting with simply getting the horn ring off without busting it up |
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60ragtop Bonneville Belt Bitch
Joined: March 13, 2006 Posts: 7800 Location: Big Wonderful WYO 82401
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Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 4:29 pm Post subject: |
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pry off the horn button from the bottom, then you can get to the nut that holds the steering wheel on. no need to remove the horn ring. there is a set screw on the switch to loosen up to remove the switch once you have the wires removed. hopefully you have a quality replacement switch to re-install. _________________ Rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
ASA certified in 1987
Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986
tasb wrote: |
I've restored a large number too, but I don't toot my horn quite as loud.
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sb001 wrote: |
maybe he just snapped cause his car sucked |
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texstardetail Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2009 Posts: 91 Location: Georgetown, Texas
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Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 5:06 pm Post subject: |
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Take pictures along the way/write-up. I have to do mine eventually...or just swap steering columns all together |
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panicman Samba Member
Joined: December 18, 2011 Posts: 2290 Location: Canby, OR
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Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 11:42 pm Post subject: |
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The switch replacement is easy, but make sure you have the right switch. 1960 has a unique, 1 year only switch. They can be difficult to find.
Remove the horn button,
remove the screws that hold the horn ring on, including the screw for the ground wire,
With a 22mm socket, remove the 22mm nut that holds the steering wheel on.
Center your steering wheel, then pull it off of the column.
Holding the signal arm to the column is a set screw, loosen it.
Go under your hood; find the insulated wires coming from that switch, and trace and mark each one however you will remember to reconnect them. (I use numbers and a sketchbook, or take pictures. Make corresponding tags; one for each switch wire, one for each connection that stays in the car. Make the tags on your new switch match the switch you are pulling, and then reconnect 1 to 1, 2 to 2, etc...)
Disconnect each wire, then pull the wires out through the cockpit side of the dash.
Mark your wires on the new switch if desired, and feed the wires forward into the dash from the cockpit side, running the new switch onto the column. Do not tighten yet.
Go back under the hood, make clean connections and run your wires the way they were like factory. Clean any dirty connections with a clean brass brush. For now, leave your labels on.... Just in case.
Get back in the car, assuming you left the wheels undisturbed, and centered your wheel prior to removal, replace the wheel, centered. Replace the 22mm nut.
Now move the switch into position in front of the steering wheel, and leave a thin gap between the front of the steering wheel and the turn signal switch. When it is in position, carefully tighten that set screw. Do not overtighten, as you can strip those threads pretty easily.
Now, hit the key and test for signals. If all is well, replace the 22mm nut, the horn ring, and the horn button, and you should be done.
If not, double check your labels and diagram.
_________________ _________________ Plate of shrimp |
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60ragtop Bonneville Belt Bitch
Joined: March 13, 2006 Posts: 7800 Location: Big Wonderful WYO 82401
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Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2015 5:30 am Post subject: |
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panicman wrote: |
remove the screws that hold the horn ring on, including the screw for the ground wire, |
you don't really need to remove the horn ring to take off the steering wheel. leave it on so there is less chance of breaking this HTF part. And there is no separate ground wire on the 60-61 horn ring _________________ Rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
ASA certified in 1987
Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986
tasb wrote: |
I've restored a large number too, but I don't toot my horn quite as loud.
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sb001 wrote: |
maybe he just snapped cause his car sucked |
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panicman Samba Member
Joined: December 18, 2011 Posts: 2290 Location: Canby, OR
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Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2015 8:09 am Post subject: |
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Sorry- I copied my response to a later model owner who was asking how to do this, and missed that little item.
My 22mm socket has a larger OD than the half ring ID, so I have to remove mine.
By all means, if you can skip this step, do!! Those half rings are like gold for 1960. _________________ Plate of shrimp |
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Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24732 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2015 8:25 am Post subject: |
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Do be careful and read up on this post first:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369613
Lots of two year only parts in there, and if you do not know or understand, it is easy to screw it all up.
To lift the horn button up, use your thumb nail or if you do not have good enough thumb nail, use a sharp knife to just get it moving up just enough so you can get your finger tips gripping it. _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
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wayne1230cars Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2010 Posts: 2685 Location: Canada
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Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2015 10:13 am Post subject: |
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Good advice thus far.
This pic shows the turn signal switch from my 1960 bug. I have seen this handle breakage issue on other '60s as well. I bought a repro '60 switch but it was troublesome. Would not self cancel on a right turn, would randomly beep the horn and sometimes would not work at all on a left turn. I found a NOS SWF switch in the Samba classifieds and it has worked perfectly for 5 years now. As already stated, hopefully you have a good quality switch available for replacement.
A '61 switch is the same as a '60 except it has push on wire connectors instead of the screw terminals.
As mentioned, use caution with the horn as it has some parts unique to 60/61 that can be very difficult to find.
[img][/img] _________________ 1960 beetle
1970 beetle convertible |
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