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tgif Samba Member
Joined: August 18, 2013 Posts: 11 Location: San Jose, CA
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Posted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 10:02 pm Post subject: A few Rookie Questions -Just picked up A Manx Style Buggy |
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Ok, I'm a rookie at Air Cool'ed and VW.. Finally settled into a Manx Style buggy on a '74 Pan. Been shopping CL and eBay all summer for a nice project to use around town and tow down to Pismo.
Already been down to the team at BugFormance (a few exits down from me). but got a few questions.
1. Looking to make a seat in the rear bucket area but looking for recommendations on a upholstery shop.
2. Will need to add a bar(s) on the cage to fit a top and for the rear seatbelts. Any recommendations?
3. Once Rollbar is set and seat will want to get a soft top done (prob custom). Any recommendations?
4. Lastly is there a Southbay air cooled or Dune Buggy club to join?
Info on the Buggy:
The motor is good. Was told it was a 1900 but the stamp is a AB which is non-USA 1300cc 70-73. Bus Style Tranny. The shifter (empi button) it came with didn't work right and could go right into reverse with no button. A little crazy as downshifting from 3-2nd it was easy to grind reverse. Got that fixed up with a stock stick and a short shift kit.
Typical Shortened Pan looking ok for the age with a little rust but new riveted sheet metal over the stock pan at the seat area. I moved the rear seat as far back as possible since i'm 6'2"..
Wiring is all home made harness but done very good. VDO gauges (had to order the converter for the speedo). Had an Amp installed with a headphone adapter for mp3/phone. Got rid of that. Already wired up a cig-lighter to power up GPS, Charge a phone, etc. Also installed a horn kit (Polaris Razor street kit) (i'll put up pics this weekend)
Brakes stop and straight but after pulling drums we have leaks. Going to get them all updated and redone in the next few weeks. All new drums, springs, shoe's, etc. No Parking brake, cables or hardware. The Body has a eyeloop after the slot, but no stock holder for a arm or cables. Something I need to figure out in case a brake issue I can pull handle and go manual to stop.
Body is decent, some wear. Its Red but i can see under the red it has a Green/Glittery sparkly gel style paint underneath it. No stamping, numbers on the body. The Vin is a Special construction and can't pull a carfax for info. Bought it from a guy who had it for 1.5 years and the guy before that was in Victorvill (East LA). The keychain has a tag for CarCraft LA which is a VW shop.
More pics to come. Been working on it lightly for a few hours to get the basics done. Want t learn more and tweak with this for 2-3 years and then look at doing a Myers Manx 2+2 build/kit. _________________ -Tgif
San Jose, CA
-Manx Style Buggy on a '74 Pan |
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sbussard Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2011 Posts: 432 Location: Pittsburgh, PA (near enough)
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Posted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 11:28 pm Post subject: |
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You've got a real nice start. It looks like it was done right from the start and plenty of room to upgrade components and hone your skills. As for the 1900 vs 1300, the only difference would be the P&C's and possibly heads. They both could use the same case. The only way to really tell would be to open up the motor and measure it up, cylinder size and CC the heads. But in my opinion, that's not worth doing at this time. If you really want to know, that's a good winter project.
Get the brakes squared up first, then drive it like you stole it!
Very nice!
Scott _________________ Manxter #122
First time, garage built, and living out the childhood dream of owning a life-size Hotwheel!
Check out my build thread-->My Manxter 2+2 |
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jspbtown Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004 Posts: 5152
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Posted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 7:32 am Post subject: |
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Will you be able to get it inspected (do you have to?) without the e-brake?
What is that wire attached to the top of the tunnel? |
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manxdavid Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2003 Posts: 1841 Location: David Jones, Anglesey, North Wales, UK. Manxclub #678.
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Posted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 8:16 am Post subject: |
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Nice start. The only thing I wouldn't be keen on is that rear roll hoop. It may be a trick of the camera but it looks like your head would be really close to it which could cause you serious injory in even a minor crash. You may want to get that rear hoop made re-made wider and layed back a bit more before spending out $$$ on custom hoods. I'd hate anyone to get killed by a 'safety device'... |
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tgodber Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2004 Posts: 410 Location: Okanagan Falls B.C. Canada
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Posted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 8:38 am Post subject: |
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Not sure if this would help you with the back seat. From CIP1.
http://www.cip1.ca/searchresults.asp?cat=771 _________________ My wife said I never listen to her.
Or something like that! |
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tgif Samba Member
Joined: August 18, 2013 Posts: 11 Location: San Jose, CA
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Posted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 1:46 pm Post subject: |
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jspbtown wrote: |
Will you be able to get it inspected (do you have to?) without the e-brake?
What is that wire attached to the top of the tunnel? |
Since it already has a VIN don't need inspection and I already went to DMV for change of ownership.
The Wire is a ground that connects to a ground bus on the firewall. _________________ -Tgif
San Jose, CA
-Manx Style Buggy on a '74 Pan |
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tgif Samba Member
Joined: August 18, 2013 Posts: 11 Location: San Jose, CA
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Posted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 1:53 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks, i'm ok with clearance on the seat to the bar, though looking to have the 2 inner bars moved to the center for easier in and out. From there add bars to the rear for the seat/protection.
I took it into Bugformance last week and had the Front shoes, cylinders, springs, drums and bearings replaced. The rears needed same but drums were still good and turned. The Axle seals needed replacing.
A wire/manual rear brake would be have been $500+ as no cable guides, etc. Alot of fab would have been needed so went with a line block for $150 installed. Works great. With the brakes all done, master cylinder good under pressure i'm ok with it.
Got my dad in town and painting the tow bar, going to sand up and paint the pan and add the bedliner coating (slip resistant) to the pan from the seat the pedals. He's also doing some other black pain touchup and we'll put it all together next weekend.
The Bugformance guys helped out in getting the EMPI Hall Effect sensor for the speedo up and running and now the VDO gauage is calibrated and perfect.
I had to move the cigliter/accessory power to the other end of the speedo to fit in a small 4.5x11x6" marine glovebox. Hacked up the dash lastnight and got it to fit. I'll post some pics later this week on that.
Now that it stops, the wheels won't fall off, the engine is purring i just need to get the cage extended or a new one, have a rear seat done and than a top..
Thanks everyone! _________________ -Tgif
San Jose, CA
-Manx Style Buggy on a '74 Pan |
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tgif Samba Member
Joined: August 18, 2013 Posts: 11 Location: San Jose, CA
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Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2014 7:11 pm Post subject: Updates2 |
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Ok, had a few things done since last posted back in the fall.
1. Had the brakes done with new kits and wheel cylinders. Front drums we're turnable while the rears needed replacement. Master was good but later found out the brake lights were not working (was the switch on the end of the master $8 fix). The team and Bugformance in San Jose did a great job for me! Since there was no cabling left for a parking brake I had them add in a line lock
In this same image you can see I added a horn, cig lighter (to power accessories) and also a locking glove box.
The box as hard to find as there was no "universal" box. Since the dash was metal I only had certain height, width and length to work with. Found one on ebay from a Marine (boat) dealer $30 from Orlando. 2 sawsoff blades and ab it grinding later it was in!
I got a reference from Bugformance for Toupals Upholstery. After a quick call and a met yup we discussed a custom top. Left the buggy with him for a few weeks and he hit a HOME RUN! Perfectly made to what I wanted a awesome fit. Big window in the back and side windows for my boy to see out of it. Also made a thin rear seat so he can sit back there with a small booster (laws) and wont' hit his head. The top comes down easy and can even drive with it down at non-high speeds.
He use to do tons of them back in the late 70s and 80s, but said it had been a few years since last done one. Awesome work, and highly recommended. He runs his business out of a barn on some property he has in south San Jose, so make sure to call or email before hand.
This was in his barn before leaving!!
In my driveway. You can see that I added a black VW Logo on the hood. The car had a sticker there when I got it and when removing it I hide a crack in the fiberglass. I used some epoxy to seal it back down and then sorta covered it with the VW logo. I need to bust out the hairdryer to go after the "Simmon's Racing" stick that the previous owner put on it. I also added rearview mirror and ATV easy fold-in Side Mirrors (all bar clamp). Lastly shoulder/lap belts added in the front and lap belts in the back for rear seat.
Lastly, I scored some chairs on craigslist back in Nov and just got to putting them in. The ones i had before were super small and not much support as well as fixed. I added some rails from summit racing and bolted them in.
I had to remove some brackets that the old seats were bolted into (2 bolts only).
Also hacked off the side 1/4" rail on from the pan to even fit and make room for the stick to adjust.
I didn't want to add hight due to rollbar and wanted the drivers seat to go far back as possible (Im 6'2"). Got them to fit with some welding to insure the bolts on the back drivers stay in place.
I added a foam red rollbar noodle on the top of the cross bar since the drivers seat is more back need a head saver..
My last thing to do now, is new wheels and tires. The Fronts are dried out and cracking while the small "pizza cutter" style 4.5" Tire isn't good at 45mph+ (front lifts). I wanted some Smoothies with 15x7 fronts and 15x8 rears. However without going with a changer I can't find wide 5 (5x205mm) smoothies. I ordered some some Chrome US Steel Wide 5 Star with centercap. Going do a simple 235/60/15" on the 15x7 up front and do a Nitto Dune Grappler 31" on the 15x8 for the rear. I have those Nitto's on my truck now and they work great out in Pismo for light sand fun. I"ll do picks once those go up in a few weeks.
Ok, one last call out. I've looked over a few hundred pics of types of fiberglass buggies and can't find one that matches mine. If anyone has a reference or knows let me know. Looks like it was sold and pieced together from Car Craft in Riverside. Sold to someone around there in which that was sold on ebay to the guy i got it from. I found the persons address who had it after Car Craft from an old registration found under a seat. Funny, the google map satellite images shows it in the driveway and someone working on it. Thanks in advance. _________________ -Tgif
San Jose, CA
-Manx Style Buggy on a '74 Pan |
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tgif Samba Member
Joined: August 18, 2013 Posts: 11 Location: San Jose, CA
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Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2014 7:14 pm Post subject: Also.... |
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Added new shocks when doing the brakes. Standard EMPI front and rear. Near wheel bearings done too. The swing axles and boots were good.
Added new plugs, plug wires and put in a cage for the alternator belt (so no one looses a finger). _________________ -Tgif
San Jose, CA
-Manx Style Buggy on a '74 Pan |
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andygere Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2014 Posts: 600 Location: Central Coast, CA
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Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 9:10 am Post subject: |
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Nice looking buggy tgif, thanks for the soft top reference, I will definitely check out Toupals when I get ready to have a top made. Did you get zip in door panels made? Also, would you mind sharing approximate cost for the top for budgeting purposes?
I'm in Santa Cruz, have you found any other buggy enthusiasts or clubs in the area? |
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lbass Samba Member
Joined: September 22, 2010 Posts: 134 Location: Bakersfield Ca
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Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 10:44 pm Post subject: |
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Thats a sweet looking buggy! Keep it up. The top looks great too! I have a long body buggy and a top like that would be a bit much to me, I went with a small top just to cover my head and it seems to be ok.
Cant wait to see what you do next! |
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tgif Samba Member
Joined: August 18, 2013 Posts: 11 Location: San Jose, CA
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Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 7:52 pm Post subject: Thanks |
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Thanks, its getting better and better and funnier each time.. The Top was around $1500 based on doing the windows, rivets for the button snap, fabric and time (custom). Also had to add the hinges as I wanted to it to fold down and be removable. It was a bit more than I wanted to spend but WORTH the price once I saw the final product.. Oh wait, that also included the price for the seating the back.. I think that was around $300, so top would be around $1200'ish..
I could have added zipper doors (he asked) and even a bimi top when folded down to snap it in place (may go back and get that done in the fall). He had a few other cars in this shop along with a Ghia, Classic Resto Truck and was heading out to do a headliner in a GT500 Mustang resto.. He knows the stuff and top in the valley/south bay..
Wheels up next and i think i'll pause for a bit.. Use it up for 1-2 years and may start on a fullsize pan resto to do a Manxter 2+2 kit.. We'll see, it early.. _________________ -Tgif
San Jose, CA
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tgif Samba Member
Joined: August 18, 2013 Posts: 11 Location: San Jose, CA
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Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:20 pm Post subject: New tires and wheels |
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Got my new tires and wheels on this week. I ordered the rims from JBugs in San Marcos CA. I was going to order from Summit but their site said 30 days. My local place (BugFormance) quoted me over $200 per rim and Jbugs was $120-$130 (15x7 vs 15x8) on their site. Called them to confirm they can get them (3 days) and ordered up on Saturday. They shipped them Wednesday and delivered Friday (said takes 1-3 days to get them and 2 days to get me, they were right).
I wanted to go smoothie's for that classic /retro look. Problem was i didn't want to do spacers/bolt pattern changers and without going to rotors in the front i had to stick with 5x205s. Not much selection and Chrome 5 star with Center Caps it was.
I wrapped the rear 15x8 with Nitton Dune Grappler tires. Highest rated in sand i have a set of 4 of them on my F150 4x4. They work great out in Pismo and knew that was the combo i wanted for the rear with a 31" Tire. Wrapped the front 15x7s with a basic radial but a 235 for big ballon look to match the rears and should work good to air down in the sand for a big coverage.
The Rears went on perfect but the fronts had a 5x205 to a 4x130mm 1/2 pattern changer. Took that off as planned and had to set in some studs to mount the front tire. Got those in with thru bolts but will change to chrome looking wheel nuts after ordering some "double deep" nuts (wheels).
I had the work done down at Sullivan Tires in Seaside auto center. I know the staff and owner and pre-planned it out. Tow'd it down and back up.
It Handles ssssssoooooo much better around the corners, at 30Mph+ and corner with the big front wheels and tires staying to the ground (use to have 4.5" 145 "pizza cutter" tires).
This is it for a while, only thing left to do is change out the steering rack, maybe add a snap on/off steering wheel, but i'll wait till next fall/winter for doing that.. Now it's time to enjoy it... "Family fun in the sun time!"
_________________ -Tgif
San Jose, CA
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tgif Samba Member
Joined: August 18, 2013 Posts: 11 Location: San Jose, CA
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 12:10 pm Post subject: New Front Bumper |
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Order an EMPI Chrome front Bumper. I wanted to make sure I can still use my tow bar with the bumper on. For this I picked up some 2" x57mm U Clamps (Muffler style) from my local autoparts store. Measure and used the top hole already pre-drilled but had to drill another one lower than the pre-drilled to use the U Clamp and mount to the upper torsion bar.
This also would give it a cleaner look which would be gapless from the bottom of the hood to the bumper. Mounted it up clean and this is the result.
Clears perfect for the towbar on the bottom torsion bar. I need to center it a bit better however save that for when i remove the hood (accessible for socket/wrench). _________________ -Tgif
San Jose, CA
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tgif Samba Member
Joined: August 18, 2013 Posts: 11 Location: San Jose, CA
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 12:12 pm Post subject: Topless or Top Down |
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Took out the buggy the other night for a PTA meeting at my kids local school. I dropped the top and went topless. I love this look more than with the top up.
I did add in Black rollbar padding across the sides and back. I had a red one on the back before but didn't like the look as much. Still need some more to finish up the front, but looks good...
_________________ -Tgif
San Jose, CA
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tgif Samba Member
Joined: August 18, 2013 Posts: 11 Location: San Jose, CA
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Posted: Sat May 17, 2014 10:51 pm Post subject: Gas? |
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I had some local business meetings and decieded to take the Buggy out to them. Weather is in the 80s and the Top is off, time to enjoy.
I was a few blocks from my meeting and a few miles from home when at a red light the buggy stalled out and died. After a few 4 letter words, i cranked it a few times and it wouldn't fully start. Seemed like it ran out of gas but my gauge was a bit under 1/2 a tank.
I had a 4gallons in it back the month before while at Pismo and maybe ran it for 20mins total, so i figured it was about right. Checked the wiring on the engine, looked at the dip stick and ground for leaks, all good. I pushed it over to the side of the road and put on the hazards.
I checked the gas cap and looked into the tank, nothing. I shook the buggy and barely heard some slosh. Called the wife "Need favor.. Grab Dad, the tow bar and the big red container of gas outside by the trash cans. Meet me at the corner of ______.."
Just as they show up so does a local officer. He was pretty cool, i threw in 1gal, cranked it a few times with no starting. Hooked up the tow bar in 1min and we were off back home.
Later that afternoon when I got back i undid the hose to the carb in which it was dry. Cranked it a few times giving it gas and on the 3rd crank (20secs) gas starting coming out. Connected it back to the carbs and no problem. Put in another gallon and ran up and down the block with no issue. Gas gauge still on a little lower than 1/2. Tapping the gauge doesn't do anything.
I jumped into this morning and started up, gas gauge shows a little above E. Which would be right. Dropped in 6 Gallons and quickly a little under F.
Thought i was going to have to check the sender unit, but looking good now. It had a small fuel filter on it (smaller than the normal generic plastic ones that are see thru, but it was metal). Replaced it with one that is 3x the size and it's got TONS more power now..
Heading to Pismo for Memorial Weekend, not sure if we'll take it down again this time or not (or take the quads). I did put the pre-filter back on the air filter just in case. Still want to hard wire in the towing lights and signals to use the stock back lights when towing than using magnetic lights on the back bumper taped down. _________________ -Tgif
San Jose, CA
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Lo Cash John Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2004 Posts: 2246 Location: Jacksonville, FL
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Posted: Sun May 18, 2014 2:17 am Post subject: |
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I know you've already bought new rims but there are wider 5 bolt rims available.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1172589
Remember, just because the local parts guy can't point to it in a catalog doesn't mean it's not available. This website is THE BEST place on the planet for finding parts for VWs. _________________ www.LoCashRacing.org
More brains than bucks...Believe it or not!!
If you actually drive your VW, you need www.AirMapp.com
My boss told me I need to work on my mutli-tasking. So now when I use the bathroom at work I surf The Samba on my iPhone. |
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tgif Samba Member
Joined: August 18, 2013 Posts: 11 Location: San Jose, CA
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Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 10:34 pm Post subject: Update 2015 |
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Well its been a while since I've posted back. Since almost a year I've done the following:
1. Found out the Chassis is a "SandWinder" style from JC Figerglass. I don't know where ID# can be found but the hood, line and body style are correct. http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/registry/sandwinder
2. I firmly attached the front bumper after taking off the hood.
3. Fix my float issue to correctly read gas in the tank. Made own gasket with some thin corkboard material which also stopped the smell of gas in my garage (found the leak issue?).
4. Wired up the tail lights and turn signals to a 4 plug trailer wire. This drops the need for having the towing/temporary braking lights needed.
5. After getting some feedback on Facebook from Manx DuneBuggy Club I removed the roll-cage side bars leaving the front (attaches to dash) and back hoop. The removal of the side was more to reduce the risk of head injury, as a few times when turning tight i've hit the bar (even though padded) with my head. In a small accident i'm sure it would hurt more the helpful. This also makes getting in/out easier. I have no desire to jump it or hit hard off-road. I kept the bars for someone to re-weld if wanted. Since the rear and front hoop stay in place and padded I didn't grind off the excess metal.
6. After not starting it for several months my gas went bad. I pumped out the tank, cleaned the lines, drained the carb and with fresh gas got her up and stared in no time.
I'll be down next week in Pismo for the Win, Surf and Beyond and the vintage VW show with the dune buggy on Sunday 5/3. We'll get into town on Friday late afternoon (towing it down in my truck) and be around town Friday/Saturday with some beach time.
Looking for any VW or Dune Buggy Meet ups in the Bay Area, let me know. _________________ -Tgif
San Jose, CA
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