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SoldierBoy18
Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2015
Posts: 31
Location: Lancaster
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 Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 2:44 pm Post subject: Bowden cable |
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| Id like to start of by saying thank you guys for the help on the first of the problems .Some of them very minor but still thanks .I have it running now but when it goes into first and you let the clutch off the whole thing shakes violently i found that my bowden cable is straight and does not have a bend can anyone tell me how to bend it to the right angle . |
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c21darrel
Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009
Posts: 8211
Location: San Dimas
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SoldierBoy18
Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2015
Posts: 31
Location: Lancaster
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 3:23 pm Post subject: |
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there are these little things blocking it from going up more where should this be adjusted ?
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SoldierBoy18
Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2015
Posts: 31
Location: Lancaster
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 3:24 pm Post subject: |
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| My bowden tube is extremely long id say 36 to 48 inches.Is it even a bowden tube or just a piece of metal |
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c21darrel
Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009
Posts: 8211
Location: San Dimas
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60ragtop
Bonneville Belt Bitch
Joined: March 13, 2006
Posts: 7800
Location: Big Wonderful WYO 82401
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 3:32 pm Post subject: |
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it looks like the metal conduit that runs thru the car. What kinda contraption you working on?
_________________
Rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
ASA certified in 1987
Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986
| tasb wrote: |
I've restored a large number too, but I don't toot my horn quite as loud.
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| sb001 wrote: |
maybe he just snapped cause his car sucked  |
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SoldierBoy18
Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2015
Posts: 31
Location: Lancaster
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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| 60ragtop wrote: |
| it looks like the metal conduit that runs thru the car. What kinda contraption you working on? |
Working on a sandrail and im going to go buy one then because the guys who had this where apparently idiots .
Is this one good for it ? says a super bettle mine is a super trans
http://www.ebay.com/itm/311-721-361-BOWDEN-TUBE-VW...mp;vxp=mtr |
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60ragtop
Bonneville Belt Bitch
Joined: March 13, 2006
Posts: 7800
Location: Big Wonderful WYO 82401
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 3:39 pm Post subject: |
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OK then those clamps are because the cable is shortened. The bowden tube should fit between where it comes out of "frame" and the trans bracket.
You need to attach it to the frame and cut it off so you can install the bowden tube.get a bowden tube first then you can tell where it needs to be attached and cut.
something like this
it might be best if you ask your questions in the off road forum about this vehicle
_________________
Rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
ASA certified in 1987
Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986
| tasb wrote: |
I've restored a large number too, but I don't toot my horn quite as loud.
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| sb001 wrote: |
| maybe he just snapped cause his car sucked |
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61SNRF
Samba Member
Joined: March 29, 2009
Posts: 4657
Location: Whittier 90602
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 8:11 pm Post subject: |
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The kink in the Bowden tube is there to dampen the oscillations of the cable during clutch engagement.
As you may well testify, there is a lot of chatter and vibration with no kink from a Bowden tube.
To stop the chatter you need to make your steel tube shorter so you can put a Bowden tube on the end.
Pick any year Beetle Bowden tube to start off with, and shorten the steel tube accordingly to match. Getting one for the same year as the chassis might make good sense, that way you remember what year to buy in the future.
Once you have the outer steel tube shortened and mounted solidly, final fine tuning and shimming of the BT to get more kink is done by slipping 12mm flat washers over the end that fits into the trans.
A look through the many How-To's on shortening a frame for Manx style buggy's will surely offer you a few good tips on cable and tube shortening too...
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=154350
When all else fails, hydraulic clutches are another popular option on Buggy's...
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C13-16-2549
_________________
-Bruce
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. |
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mark tucker
Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009
Posts: 23937
Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 10:02 pm Post subject: |
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| I like the bowden tubes with the plastic ends much better than the steel end oe type |
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SoldierBoy18
Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2015
Posts: 31
Location: Lancaster
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| Posted: Fri May 01, 2015 12:17 am Post subject: |
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| so basically shorten the metal tube you see in the pics that is really long cut it with a dremal to the same size as the bowden tube.Then put the metal tubing over the bowden tube ? or attach the metal pipe to the bowden tube ? |
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Dr OnHolliday
Samba Member
Joined: May 11, 2012
Posts: 1215
Location: was Escondido now San Berdoo
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| Posted: Fri May 01, 2015 9:15 am Post subject: |
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The end of the bowden tube goes into the end of the metal tube. The rearward end of the bowden tube goes into a bracket on the transmission that's about 6" from the clutch lever into the transaxle. It looks like you need to shorten the metal tube and make sure it is securely welded to the frame. On final installation of the cable into the tubes you must grease the cable up its full length.
Added: the bowden tube is a flexible rubber sheath that the cable runs thru. One end fits inside the larger diameter of of the steel tube that is shown in your picture. Hence, when you cut the metal tube shorter you need to replace that larger diameter piece in some way - maybe a steel fitting to slides over the steel tube and also takes the bowden tube...I don't know what buggy guys do...it has been done thousands of times tho. Note that the "bushing" stops on the steel tube because it supporrts the bowden tube against sliding forward when you step on the clutch. You really need to locate a local bug hobbyist who can show you these parts...
_________________
1965 Type 1 sunroof Baja / about 70k miles on self-rebuilt '74 1600 and counting / SP heads and aftermarket valve keepers / non-doghouse shroud with external cooler and filter / 1.5 qt extended sump / Weber 32/36 DFAV progressive carb / 009 dist with Pertronix / 1.25 ratio rockers and ball adjusters / 1.5" stainless steel J-pipes and carbon steel baja exhaust
Last edited by Dr OnHolliday on Sat May 02, 2015 10:44 am; edited 1 time in total |
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c21darrel
Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009
Posts: 8211
Location: San Dimas
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cbeck
Samba Member
Joined: January 14, 2014
Posts: 2495
Location: high ridge, mo
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| Posted: Sat May 02, 2015 6:53 am Post subject: |
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| x2 on hydraulic. I should have done that back in the 80's. PS, the cable clamps are on wrong- never saddle a dead horse. |
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Dr OnHolliday
Samba Member
Joined: May 11, 2012
Posts: 1215
Location: was Escondido now San Berdoo
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| Posted: Sat May 02, 2015 10:51 am Post subject: |
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Wait!
Your steel tube is bolted to the lower shock mount??
Your clutch cable setup is totally jacked up and the numnut who created that mess didn't know WTF he was doing.
You need to find a buggy shop or local hobbyist to talk you through a repair plan for this pos.
With this "quality" of build, this thing may not be safe to drive.
_________________
1965 Type 1 sunroof Baja / about 70k miles on self-rebuilt '74 1600 and counting / SP heads and aftermarket valve keepers / non-doghouse shroud with external cooler and filter / 1.5 qt extended sump / Weber 32/36 DFAV progressive carb / 009 dist with Pertronix / 1.25 ratio rockers and ball adjusters / 1.5" stainless steel J-pipes and carbon steel baja exhaust |
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