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Porsche 914 1.8L to 2.0L
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BTalbs
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 5:05 pm    Post subject: Porsche 914 1.8L to 2.0L Reply with quote

What steps do I need to take to convert a 1.8L to a 2.0L? Do I need to get new heads? Do I need to get any machine work done on the heads? Or do I just need to get bigger pistons and jugs?
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need the 2.0 cylinderz and pistons and a 2.0 crank and rods. The 1.7 and 1.8 had a 66mm stroke and the 2.0 had a 71mm stroke.

You "can" flycut the 1.8 heads to "fit" the 2.0 cylinders.....but it will require a little work to get deck sorted out.....and it will be more similar to a VW bus 2.0 but with slightly better compression.
It will be nowhere near the same as a 914 2.0 because the 914 used different head castings. Better splug plug angle, slightly different intake tract angle and ckmbustikn chamber shape.
But.....I say similar to a bus 2.0. If you get the compression right and cam it properly it will run very well.

To really make it work its best with this combo.....if you stay with injection....either D or L....use 914 2.0 intake runners with a 2.0 bus plenum and TB or a 412/914 plenum with a bus 2.0 TB.
You will also most probably need new pushrods ut just check the geometry. Ray
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914werke
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lets start with a few questions?
What are you starting with? 1.8L
Carbs or OE FI (which was L-jet)?
If Carbs was the cam changed?
The answers to those Q's will help lead to your best options.
As already described to change a 1.7 or 1.8L to a 2.0 requires splitting the case and swapping the crank/rods.
Heads while not as good as the 2.0 variety will work w/o modification.
Another possibility to consider is going big bore -> 96mm =1911cc's.
no splitting the case, some CR and valvetrain work will net you as much as a stock 2.0L.
Diff than the stock 2.0L, slightly less tourque more revvy.
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malcolm2
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 7:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends what YOU want. Do you want a true 2.0? Then you need to get a crank, P/C, Heads, cooling tins, correct injectors and DJet stuff (if FI). If you are just looking for HP, then you can pick and choose.

I went with the 1911 cc set up. Uses the same 66mm crank as a 1.8, just 96mm pistons. that is the only change and I went from 1756 to 1911. The heads can be changed, but don't have to be....

You could just put the 2.0 sized valves in. That is where you need head work. IIRC the 93mm pistons and the 96 have the same cylinder OD, so cutting there would not be needed. But check my memeory on that. The spark plug hole does not have to move.... but it won't be a true 2.0.

Have fun.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or you can simply buy New heads on new castings from HAM inc...that have been CNC modified and had proper welding done to be exact replicas of three bolt 2.0L 914 heads.

They have exact combustion chamber shape, valve size, plug angle, three bot intake pattern etc. Not cheap...but worth every penny...and the new castings from what I hear do not have the cracking issues of the original 2.0 heads.
Ray
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Wolfgangdieter
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 7:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very informative thread. Is changing the cam from FI to one better suited to carbs worth cost (i.e gives performance benefits?) What is best choice for a distributor? Should 009 be considered at all? Can FI distributor be used?

I have both a converted 2.0L engine with the 3 bolt heads but 1.7L case and dual Holley-Weber dual throats and a 1.8L 914 with bus duals Solex carbs. Both have been sitting and need to be gone through. I'd like to rebuild both - one would go in CMC Speedster and other in a Dolphin Mod-T buggy.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2015 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wolfgangdieter wrote:
Very informative thread. Is changing the cam from FI to one better suited to carbs worth cost (i.e gives performance benefits?) What is best choice for a distributor? Should 009 be considered at all? Can FI distributor be used?

I have both a converted 2.0L engine with the 3 bolt heads but 1.7L case and dual Holley-Weber dual throats and a 1.8L 914 with bus duals Solex carbs. Both have been sitting and need to be gone through. I'd like to rebuild both - one would go in CMC Speedster and other in a Dolphin Mod-T buggy.


Yes...in short.

The problem with stock cams is that they were just...adequate. The cam that was in the car for stock 1.7L with D-jet and and 1.8L with L L-jet (same cam used later) and the us market 2.0L with D-jet (same cam)....is that they were optimized in lobe center and intake valve timing to produce a smooth vacuum signature to run D-jet and just used later with L-jet because it worked decently.

This cam left a lot on the table as far as the potential of these engines. They run ok with carbs...but not really being optimized for carbs...again they leave a lot of potential on the table.

The Euro cam for the 2.0L with D-jet...and I believe there was also a Euro cam for 1.8L carbs...may have been the same cam....did a much better job of breathing and made more HP and torque.

For carbs there is a WebCam carb for 2.0L 914 that should work well with both injection and carbs. And being that you are going carbs and not D-jet...there is a range of better choices from webcam that you can use....especially if you have upgraded exhaust and valvetrain to exploit the beneift.

Aside from those details.....all of the stock cams made the engines run a little hot and all of them had noticeable longevity/wear issues. The newer cams available are a better product all the way around.

A cam kit from the type 4 store is one of the best ways to go....if they have a grind to fit your configuration. They were originally Jake Raby designed.

Best cost effective kit as well. The cams are made by webcam. The kits come complete with gear (or you can use your old one), lifters, upgraded valve springs, chromoly pushrods, new HD rocker studs and "Real" 911 style valve adjusters. Also get a sset of double thrust cam bearings. Great set up. Ray
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BG`s`71sunnyfun
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 1:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have original 914 wheels to put on my `71 convertible bug. A while back I
had seen a seller that had seemingly multitudes of the necessary lugs that I
needed for that application at quite a reasonable price. unfortunately did not
grab those at the time, and now I don`t see that seller in the wheels section.
Does anyone know about that or where to get these longer lugs? Thanks,

Brad:)
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bluebus86
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BG`s`71sunnyfun wrote:
I have original 914 wheels to put on my `71 convertible bug. A while back I
had seen a seller that had seemingly multitudes of the necessary lugs that I
needed for that application at quite a reasonable price. unfortunately did not
grab those at the time, and now I don`t see that seller in the wheels section.
Does anyone know about that or where to get these longer lugs? Thanks,

Brad:)




High Performance House, Redwood City California has them. great 914 parts resource. look them up and give rich the owner a call.


For Cams Elgin Cams make a variety of cams for the 914 engine, form stock FI to modified FI (slightly more power but works with FI that is what I have in my 2.1 liter D-jet car (was a 2 liter but I installed 96 mm pistons to up displacement along with the elgin cam.)

have fun
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