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Overheating Issues
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Johnny_5
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 8:16 pm    Post subject: Overheating Issues Reply with quote

I just recently took a fuel injected, dual port motor and put a carb on it with all aftermarket EMPI tins. I used the EMPI 36hp style fan shroud, which I hope that wasn't a mistake. But now that I have put it into the car it seems to be running a little hotter than I believe it should. The whole back end of the car is getting pretty hot. The generator gets too hot to touch. I just don't know exactly what to do. I didn't have the original tins to put on the engine, that's why I had to get the repros. Anyways I drove the car for the first time tonight, not too far or hard, and I just don't want to ruin this engine. Any help on this issue would be great. Thanks!!
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would help to have some history of the engine, like it was run last week or has been setting for a decade.
Carb could be way off jetted and causing most of the problem. Personally would dump any part with name of EMPI, except for the clutch operating shafts they sell....

DH or non-DH?
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 12:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

source german tin from the classifieds here.
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Johnny_5
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Would help to have some history of the engine, like it was run last week or has been setting for a decade.
Carb could be way off jetted and causing most of the problem. Personally would dump any part with name of EMPI, except for the clutch operating shafts they sell....

DH or non-DH?


The engine came out of a 1979 Super Beetle Convertible that was rolled with only 5,400 miles on the car. So I would say it hasn't run since 1979. I believe that the carb problem is one of the biggest because I put the only carb I had onto it which is a 30 pict and I believe it is an awful vacuum leak at the throttle plate.
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Johnny_5
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 6:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

67jason wrote:
source german tin from the classifieds here.


That would be a smart idea, I should of done that in the first place.
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grandpa pete
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

spray carb cleaner on engine parts to find a vacuum leak . When engine smooths out you have found your leak .
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Johnny_5
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

grandpa pete wrote:
spray carb cleaner on engine parts to find a vacuum leak . When engine smooths out you have found your leak .


Heck yes, I've been doing that and in this case it kills the engine...and the only place it's doing it is at the throttle plate shaft. I just replaced the intake boots because they had a small leak.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Johnny_5 wrote:
Eric&Barb wrote:
Would help to have some history of the engine, like it was run last week or has been setting for a decade.
Carb could be way off jetted and causing most of the problem. Personally would dump any part with name of EMPI, except for the clutch operating shafts they sell....

DH or non-DH?


The engine came out of a 1979 Super Beetle Convertible that was rolled with only 5,400 miles on the car. So I would say it hasn't run since 1979. I believe that the carb problem is one of the biggest because I put the only carb I had onto it which is a 30 pict and I believe it is an awful vacuum leak at the throttle plate.


Again, DH or non-DH??

In an engine there is going to be micro corrosion in the engine parts that are going to have to polish out. So best to treat as a new engine and drive in town traffic for first 300 to 500 miles. Short trips of 15 to 30 minutes with at least 15 minutes between each trip. Any dirt in the oil when the engine was parked would have dropped out of suspension and caked up in the bottom of the sump. Get the engine up on the freeway and nice and hot, will cause all that gunk to suddenly come loose. In turn the gunk can clog up oil cooler and even the passages to the engine bearings. So on top of driving in town traffic, change oil when you can see dirty oil on dipstick, or every 50 miles, which ever comes first.

Would be good to invest in a CB Maxi 2 oil filter pump.
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Johnny_5
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Johnny_5 wrote:
Eric&Barb wrote:
Would help to have some history of the engine, like it was run last week or has been setting for a decade.
Carb could be way off jetted and causing most of the problem. Personally would dump any part with name of EMPI, except for the clutch operating shafts they sell....

DH or non-DH?


The engine came out of a 1979 Super Beetle Convertible that was rolled with only 5,400 miles on the car. So I would say it hasn't run since 1979. I believe that the carb problem is one of the biggest because I put the only carb I had onto it which is a 30 pict and I believe it is an awful vacuum leak at the throttle plate.


Again, DH or non-DH??

In an engine there is going to be micro corrosion in the engine parts that are going to have to polish out. So best to treat as a new engine and drive in town traffic for first 300 to 500 miles. Short trips of 15 to 30 minutes with at least 15 minutes between each trip. Any dirt in the oil when the engine was parked would have dropped out of suspension and caked up in the bottom of the sump. Get the engine up on the freeway and nice and hot, will cause all that gunk to suddenly come loose. In turn the gunk can clog up oil cooler and even the passages to the engine bearings. So on top of driving in town traffic, change oil when you can see dirty oil on dipstick, or every 50 miles, which ever comes first.

Would be good to invest in a CB Maxi 2 oil filter pump.



Sorry, but what do you mean by DH or not?
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buguy
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe the next time you drive it, stop at a shop you trust and ask someone to use their temp gun to see what the actual temp is. Guessing it is hot isnt very accurate.
I bet if you come over to VW Charlies (Daytona air cooled parts) in Daytona he would have a carb you could pick up cheap. He is only open til 1 or so today, so you might want to just swing over quick. Or you could just call him. 386-451-1877. He has met me at his shop after hours for parts I needed ASAP more than once before. Hes a good dude.
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Johnny_5
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 7:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

buguy wrote:
Maybe the next time you drive it, stop at a shop you trust and ask someone to use their temp gun to see what the actual temp is. Guessing it is hot isnt very accurate.
I bet if you come over to VW Charlies (Daytona air cooled parts) in Daytona he would have a carb you could pick up cheap. He is only open til 1 or so today, so you might want to just swing over quick. Or you could just call him. 386-451-1877. He has met me at his shop after hours for parts I needed ASAP more than once before. Hes a good dude.


Yeaa, I know just guessing isn't a very accurate, but I am going to my friends today to check with the infrared thermometer. Yeaaa, I do need to go check him out to see if he's got the parts I need. Sadly I can't today. I think I'll give him a call on Monday. Thanks a lot for the number!!
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Johnny_5
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Johnny_5 wrote:
Eric&Barb wrote:
Would help to have some history of the engine, like it was run last week or has been setting for a decade.
Carb could be way off jetted and causing most of the problem. Personally would dump any part with name of EMPI, except for the clutch operating shafts they sell....

DH or non-DH?


The engine came out of a 1979 Super Beetle Convertible that was rolled with only 5,400 miles on the car. So I would say it hasn't run since 1979. I believe that the carb problem is one of the biggest because I put the only carb I had onto it which is a 30 pict and I believe it is an awful vacuum leak at the throttle plate.


Again, DH or non-DH??

In an engine there is going to be micro corrosion in the engine parts that are going to have to polish out. So best to treat as a new engine and drive in town traffic for first 300 to 500 miles. Short trips of 15 to 30 minutes with at least 15 minutes between each trip. Any dirt in the oil when the engine was parked would have dropped out of suspension and caked up in the bottom of the sump. Get the engine up on the freeway and nice and hot, will cause all that gunk to suddenly come loose. In turn the gunk can clog up oil cooler and even the passages to the engine bearings. So on top of driving in town traffic, change oil when you can see dirty oil on dipstick, or every 50 miles, which ever comes first.

Would be good to invest in a CB Maxi 2 oil filter pump.


That sounds like a good idea.
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Johnny_5 wrote:
Sorry, but what do you mean by DH or not?


DH = dog house

He's asking if you have the non-dog house pre-'71 style fan housing with the old steel oil cooler in line with the airflow to the left head, or the '71+ dog house style housing with the corresponding offset oil cooler (ie, in a dog house instead of the main housing).
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Johnny_5
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mukluk wrote:
Johnny_5 wrote:
Sorry, but what do you mean by DH or not?


DH = dog house

He's asking if you have the non-dog house pre-'71 style fan housing with the old steel oil cooler in line with the airflow to the left head, or the '71+ dog house style housing with the corresponding offset oil cooler (ie, in a dog house instead of the main housing).


Oh alright, it's a dog house style.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Johnny_5 wrote:

Oh alright, it's a dog house style.


Did you measure up the fan width on the inside? Using the 29 mm or even earlier thinner non-DH fan will cause cooling problem in DH shroud.

Do you have all the exhaust tin pieces and rubber seals for the DH cooler?
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Johnny_5
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Johnny_5 wrote:

Oh alright, it's a dog house style.


Did you measure up the fan width on the inside? Using the 29 mm or even earlier thinner non-DH fan will cause cooling problem in DH shroud.

Do you have all the exhaust tin pieces and rubber seals for the DH cooler?


Yeaa, that was my first mistake. I had the wrong fan on it, but I changed that out to the fan that came on the 1979 engine and shimmed it correctly. Yup that is all in place and working. I am going to order a thermometer so I can get a real temp reading. Thanks!!
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont know if it was mentioned yet or not, but its 50,000 degrees down here right now as well!
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Johnny_5
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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

buguy wrote:
I dont know if it was mentioned yet or not, but its 50,000 degrees down here right now as well!



HAHAHA, I know!! That was my other thought, it is crazy hot right now!
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buguy
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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wonder if some decklid standoffs would do you any good? Let some of that heat escape easily.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2022 4:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Overheating Issues Reply with quote

I've got a 58 with a 1776 dual dvnf 40's all the tin is in place, timing is good valves are adjusted seals are in place... this engine overheats terribly can jetting on these carbs overheat this motor? I'm running out of places to check on why it's running hot.. thanks for your time
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