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usaf_sniper
Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2006
Posts: 2
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 Posted: Sun May 24, 2015 6:19 am Post subject: 1958 floorpan with buttons for mats |
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Hello all,
I am wondering how best to restore my original 1958 floorpans.
They are incredibly thick and solid except for some pitting on the interior side from where it sat uncovered with no body on it for several years (not my doing!) in a very few places there are some pinholes, but not more than a dozen or so. The underside retains factory undercoat, and the tunnel and ends of the frame still have factory black lacquer. I wish to save these pans not only because of their thickness compared to replacements, but also because they have the rubber mat buttons to hold the mats in, which I have not seen reproduced.
As a side topic, is my car worth more having these mat buttons?
What do restorers of this type of pan do to keep their mats in place if the pans must be replaced?
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
-Steve |
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MeeferMadness
Samba Member
Joined: June 14, 2004
Posts: 305
Location: Eugene Oregon
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| Posted: Sun May 24, 2015 7:49 am Post subject: Pan Buttons |
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The pan on my 58 was is the same condition as yours. I ended up welding in small replacement sections where the metal was thin. Wolfsburg West sells the buttons for the pans. I used a few on mine and have the remainder for sale in the classified section.
Bruce |
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usaf_sniper
Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2006
Posts: 2
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| Posted: Sun May 24, 2015 8:07 am Post subject: |
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| Thanks for the reply Bruce. The only area on my chassis that needs a welded panel replacement is of course the battery tray, but it is good to know that Wolfsburg West sells the buttons because the two right by that area are missing. My post was mostly wondering about how to fix the pitting... It isn't deep, and if you were to hit even the most pitted area really hard with a hammer and listen closely, you can hear it making fun of you (in German, of course). Given that, I feel that if I can level the pits with something before paint, but with something less moisture prone than Bondo, I would have a better car than if I cut it all up. A friend from a hot rod group suggested a product called all-metal. Anyone have experience with this problem or that product? |
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Digger89L
Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2013
Posts: 1130
Location: Western Canada (SK)
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| Posted: Sun May 24, 2015 8:50 am Post subject: |
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| There's an interesting series of Youtube videos on All-Metal application ...but nothing on the manufacturer's (USC) website. Looks like it might do the trick ... |
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Helfen
Samba Member
Joined: January 19, 2009
Posts: 3450
Location: Vulcania
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| Posted: Sun May 24, 2015 10:07 am Post subject: Re: 1958 floorpan with buttons for mats |
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| usaf_sniper wrote: |
Hello all,
I am wondering how best to restore my original 1958 floorpans.
They are incredibly thick and solid except for some pitting on the interior side from where it sat uncovered with no body on it for several years (not my doing!) in a very few places there are some pinholes, but not more than a dozen or so. The underside retains factory undercoat, and the tunnel and ends of the frame still have factory black lacquer. I wish to save these pans not only because of their thickness compared to replacements, but also because they have the rubber mat buttons to hold the mats in, which I have not seen reproduced.
As a side topic, is my car worth more having these mat buttons?
What do restorers of this type of pan do to keep their mats in place if the pans must be replaced?
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
-Steve |
My advise if you need a pan replacement would be to cut out your buttons, say a four inch square of pan around the buttons and weld them into the replacement pans and grind down smooth and repaint. If you should restore your car and show it at a concourse event or points judged show like AACA and have knowledgeable judges you will get dinged for not having them. Because of the mat style you have it can sometimes be dangerous to not have them snapped in place, such as under hard braking where the mat might slide forward and interfere with the car pedals. There are three styles of pans made for the beetle. The first style is for the standard model, those pans have the buttons but no seat tracks and in place of the seat tracks have two studs coming thru a reinforced section of the pan and in the interior of the car those studs fasten to a claw and wingnut to hold the seat to the pan. The second style is the deluxe model for your year and has seat tracks and the buttons for the mats. The third style is the newest that have seat tracks and no buttons and use the large mat for the front sides combined and the rear side combined.
I have a 1965 111 which is called a "A" sedan ( 64 and earlier was just called standard ) and this 1965 "A" sedan is the last year to use the old, old style pan with the buttons and the studs in the floor instead of seat tracks. It's also powered by a fresh air 36hp engine, it's the last year for the 36hp engine as well. |
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txoval
Samba Member
Joined: January 23, 2004
Posts: 3552
Location: The Woodlands, TX
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| Posted: Sun May 24, 2015 11:32 am Post subject: |
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For the pitting or small holes you could use this:
http://www.por15.com/POR-PATCH_p_53.html
POR15 products are great, strip your pans down to bare metal and use their products to re-coat |
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117harv
Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2009
Posts: 188
Location: MEDFORD OR.
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| Posted: Sun May 24, 2015 2:29 pm Post subject: |
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Just my opinion, but I wouldn't use POR products on anything I own.
For thin or pin holed metal, blast clean, and use JB Weld. JB Weld is heat resistant and can be drilled an tapped. I wouldn't use it in a large area, but works for spot repairs or tight areas where metal replacement is a challenge. |
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sunroof
Samba Member
Joined: October 06, 2006
Posts: 1773
Location: Winnipeg
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| Posted: Mon May 25, 2015 8:55 am Post subject: |
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I POR 15d my pan last winter and was pretty happy with the results. I have heard a couple of complaints about it tho and would like to know your experience with it.
Don
_________________
Better and better mistakes!
Last edited by sunroof on Mon May 25, 2015 9:30 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Helfen
Samba Member
Joined: January 19, 2009
Posts: 3450
Location: Vulcania
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| Posted: Mon May 25, 2015 9:24 am Post subject: |
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| sunroof wrote: |
I POR 15d my pan last winter and was pretty happy with the results. I have heard a couple of complaints about it tho and would like to know your experience with it.
Don |
Por 15 works very well if used per the instructions. Most people use Por 15 and then paint right over it which is a mistake. After putting down Por 15 on a clean surface rusted surface ( it needs this surface rust to bond ) you must use Por 15's Tie Coat Primer afterward. Then you can use your primer sealer over that and finally paint. |
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jzjames
Samba Member
Joined: September 27, 2007
Posts: 1921
Location: Windy Point, WA
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| Posted: Mon May 25, 2015 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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Alot of convoluted stories about Por15 right?
I wouldnt use the stuff myself, except for the PorPutty. |
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bluebus86
Banned
Joined: September 02, 2010
Posts: 11075
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Helfen
Samba Member
Joined: January 19, 2009
Posts: 3450
Location: Vulcania
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| Posted: Tue May 26, 2015 8:58 am Post subject: |
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| jzjames wrote: |
Alot of convoluted stories about Por15 right?
I wouldnt use the stuff myself, except for the PorPutty. |
Wrong, forget any stories and just read what needs to be done on the label |
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jzjames
Samba Member
Joined: September 27, 2007
Posts: 1921
Location: Windy Point, WA
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| Posted: Tue May 26, 2015 10:40 am Post subject: |
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| Looks good/works good for about a year or so, then...ooops! |
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VWsArent4Hippies
Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2005
Posts: 3079
Location: The Bull City
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| Posted: Tue May 26, 2015 11:18 am Post subject: |
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Klassic Fab makes the correct floor pans for your car (the only correct ones on the market)
The Thing Shop makes the floor mat buttons that weld to the floor. That's your best route |
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Helfen
Samba Member
Joined: January 19, 2009
Posts: 3450
Location: Vulcania
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| Posted: Tue May 26, 2015 12:15 pm Post subject: |
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| jzjames wrote: |
| Looks good/works good for about a year or so, then...ooops! |
So how can you tell if it looks good if it has Tie Coat primer, primer sealer and paint covering it? |
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