Link Pin/King Pin Install Q!

[MXDesa]

Hey Guys, I've begun assembling my restored link/king front beam and i've raised an eyebrow to an issue that came up. The install went together great, but the spindle is a little un-level. Let me explain:

I measured the offset and added the shims according to the manual chart for 10 shim setups. That went fine. However, when i put a level to the spindle, it isnt perfectly leveled vertically. I leveled the beam to make sure it wasn't just an issue with the chassis/pan being off, so thats checked.

My question is, should the spindle be perfectly up and down? I've attached pictures below to show how far im off. I could just alter the shim placement (If this is the right way to do it) even though what i have now is what the manual calls for but i was just wondering if it should be slightly angled or not?

(BTW- I used "FEBI" German Link and King Pin Kits)


Right/Front Spindle

Right/Front Spindle

Left/Front Spindle

[61SNRF]

#1-There are no written specs or known procedure for how you are measuring it. The FE has to be all assembled and the car on the ground to check camber.

#2-We can see there are no pinch bolts installed on the link pins to arms. Those will all have to be adjusted and tightened down as well before you can get any accuracy out of your checks.

#3-When you do get it down and check the camber, it is not adjustable on K&L FE's, so you get what you get. If it is off, you do not adjust it by changing the shims, you adjust it by replacing the bent parts.
_________________
-Bruce

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

[Joey]

If those are cheap made in China EMPI spindles the camber will be off. The CB Performance ones are the way to go.
_________________
Joey

‘60 Kombi - '74 Bus - '79 Panel - '65 Beetle

[MXDesa]

61SNRF-

Yeah the bolts are out right now, just because I was mocking everything up. I do have a 4 inch narrowed beam that i bought commercially. It is not a cut and welded stock beam. I'm assuming they use a Jig to built their beams, but that might be an issue too. (I know once you alter the front suspension, you sacrifice precision factory measurements)

Nothing looks bent, however, these parts are all original to 1960, so who knows. Thank you for your response.


Joey -

They are indeed EMPI spindles. I have them on my 66' with no issues, but then again, my ball joint beam has camber adjustments.

I thought for sure altering the shim placement would affect camber, but looks like i thought wrong. Seems like i might have to wait until the body is all done and the car is reassembled to see what im working with .

[61SNRF]

Remember, VW mass produced the front ends with precision jigs and tight quality controls and even then could only keep the control arm faces to a 1.5mm +/- tolerance. The shim stack is there to only make up that 3mm difference, nothing more or less. On a totally "stock" beam, anything outside of 3mm then you might have "Bent parts".
But, with a custom made beam and aftermarket spindles you can also add in many more factors.

But basically, if you can say your offsets are within 5.5mm to 8.5mm, and your shim selection is correct, then any Camber deviation from tolerance is due to the spindles.

Anyway, looking at the basic K&L design, Camber really shouldn't change that much with weight on the car.
With a little refinement of tools and methods, you can still get a pretty good idea of the final outcome.

-Put in the all pinch bolts and nuts, adjust all the link pins up snug and tighten the bolts down. Don't worry about backing off the Link pins for play at this point, all you want is the true measurement.

-Level the floor pan/FE assembly so the shock towers are both plumb.

-Rather than a level, use an angle protractor to measure the Camber. That way your results can be compared to known specifications. They don't cost much and you can find them at Sear's, DIY centers, HF etc...
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-magnetic-universal-...ockType=G2
_________________
-Bruce

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.