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Re-Sweep the Floor 1679cc- Heads/Cam/Exhaust? More Top End
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andy198712
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

theastronaut wrote:
andy198712 wrote:
nice, did you remove the guides or get the shop to do it? same for install? just i'm planning to push mine back or remove so i can port my guide boss somewhat like yours.

thanks for the pics!


I took them out per Modok's instructions in another thread, used a 3/8-16 tap on the chamber side and stuck a bolt in. Drilled the other end to take pressure off the walls then they tapped out easily. I'll get new ones and let the machine shop put them when they clean up the valve job.


thanks for that Smile
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theastronaut
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A really quick/probably not very accurate measurement of the chambers comes up with 40cc, good for 10.2 CR with the current .035" deck. Heads were milled .180". But I'll probably have to notch the pistons, so that'll drop some. I need a more accurate way to measure CC's than the ridiculously stubborn 60cc syringe I have. Embarassed I have $75 worth of Summit bucks coming soon so its a good time to finally buy a real buret.

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Need one of these.

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bugguy1967
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aww, come on! Waay too fancy! I think you'll be surprised how accurate it is. The only difference is you'll be able to say you have 10.23:1 compression instead of 10.2.

Edit: after seeing your sig line, I'll retract my statement. Rolling Eyes
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theastronaut
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugguy1967 wrote:
Aww, come on! Waay too fancy! I think you'll be surprised how accurate it is. The only difference is you'll be able to say you have 10.23:1 compression instead of 10.2.

Edit: after seeing your sig line, I'll retract my statement. Rolling Eyes


The one I have sticks no matter what type of fluid I use. It locks down and I had to use pliars to squeeze any fluid out. Sometimes it instantly unlocks and blows fluid everywhere. It's nowhere near accurate when it won't work smoothly. Cheap tools suck!!
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theastronaut
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finished the heads. Will drop them off to have a valve job don't this week.

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Also ported the main webs between the cylinder openings.

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theastronaut
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, I'm not known for getting anything done quickly... Embarassed So the bottom end is assembled and I have the heads back from having a valve job done. I just set it up with clay to check the piston to valve clearance. There is no clearance; the valve barely touches the piston top, just enough to cut through the clay but not enough to make a hard spot when turning the crank.

The piston tops are about .248-.250" thick, it should be ok to cut .100" deep notches? It'll have a 7500 rpm redline; is .100" clearance a good number to shoot for?



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modok
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could go .150" deep and be fine!

Usually give the exhaust valve 2x clearance as intake. Actual valve lift will lag behind at high rpm.
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theastronaut
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been looking around, .080" for intake and .110" for exhaust?
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modok
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, should be about right.
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Quokka42
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you end up getting the burette to measure your head CCs?

I'd aim for about 2mm (80 thou) on both valves. The intake is heavier and thus more likely to float and kiss the piston. 1mm would be OK if you were sure there was no possibility of float, even if you miss a gear change on the strip.
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FreeBug
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 4:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a note on syringe and accuracy: it is hard to read the syringe , resolution of 1 cc strains the eyes. I found an easy solution, I fill the syringe to about 100 cc, then weigh it on a paint scale. Set to zero, and you have way better accuracy, excepting the usual crap with air bubbles and leakage around the lip, plate flex,etc..
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Quokka42
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 4:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually, if you weigh it and using water it will be very accurate.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Need one of these.

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[/quote] I have 2 sets of those, but I dont think you can bolt them on the vw case...
I go .060 intake and .080~.100 exhaust remember the ex is going tward the piston& the piston is going tward the exhaust.the intake is chasing the piston. be sure the cam is degreed correctly before cutting to be positive about the clearance.and head gaskets if you use them.
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FreeBug
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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 1:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah, forgot to say it, water, and if you want to get fancy with a drop of food coloring.
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theastronaut
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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good advice all around. I'll be notching the pistons tomorrow, don't want to wait for a machine shop to do it. None of the FLAPS had any sort of valves with 8mm stems in stock, I guess I'll use one of the old exhaust valves to make a cutter. If I don't run into any snags I should be able to get the heads on for good and start checking the rocker geometry this week.
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theastronaut
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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since the 36 DRLA's will be on the small side, how would IDA's with 37mm venturis work out? I have a pair with manifolds already, just need to finish assembling them.
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Matthew
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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can get 34mm vents for the IDAs. I'm no IDA expert, but I think 37s would be big for a 1700. Your engine would qualify as 70's Cal look being a 1700 with IDAs.
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theastronaut
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I might try the IDA's just to see.

I notched the piston tops myself, .060" on the intake and .035" on the exhaust. Went over the edges with a scotch brite pad on a 2" grinder to round them over a little. Also remeasured the chambers and came up with 42, 43, 44, and 44cc. Going to match the chambers today and get the heads bolted on for good. It'll end up at around 9.2-9.3 compression (it's 9.4 not figuring in the notches). Lower than I wanted but it should be high enough to work ok with the 86b.

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raymon covey
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your notches should have been the opposite. The exhaust always gets closer to the piston than the intake. Piston is moving away from intake and chases exhaust valve.
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theastronaut
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

raymon covey wrote:
Your notches should have been the opposite. The exhaust always gets closer to the piston than the intake. Piston is moving away from intake and chases exhaust valve.


There was already .055" clearance on the exhaust, I notched it .035" for .090" total. The intake has .060" total clearance.
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Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exist and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough."
-Sir Henry Royce, co-founder of Rolls-Royce

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