My Squareback with Suby under the lid!

[caleb0101]

You should make more of your radiator mount,radiator intake shroud, and muffler and sell them as a kit on here
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Ruby red 1967 beetle sedan with a 2021cc
1967 beetle sedan baja project
April 60 euro spec ragtop beetle with a 1641cc

[D2NE]

[D2NE]

OK, so over the last month or so, I started having a idle issues. I was trying everything and kept running into the same problem. After warm up, around 190 degrees the idle would jump up really high and the fans wouldn't kick on. If I shut it down during this time, it wouldn't start again. I was resorting to re-setting the computer to get it to start.
I was trying everything I could think of and kept running into the same problem. Every time I thought I got it solved it would show up again.
I tried un-hooking the VSS simulator. Same results. Cleaned the IAC, no change.
So back to square one. As simple as this sounds it wasn't that easy to figure this out. I unhooked A 20 ground, and B 10 Neutral switch. Had to adjust the idle at the IAC, and low and behold, no high idle or issues. Drove it around and it ran, started, stopped, and did everything like it should.
Funny, somewhere in the beginning, I had both of these un-hooked, but after some stall issues, I hooked them up.
I stuck with "Trying the easy stuff first". Glad I did. I was thinking everything from bad ECM to throttle position sensor.
As of today, I have a smooth running easy starting car.

[Corysvdub]

So what's the latest on your square? Any heat issues?
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66 squareback turboed & squirted

[D2NE]

OK I have to say I didn't succeed with the rear radiator. I started driving around during the day near the middle of summer and it failed. Temps climbed and it would go right back into the high idle, hard starts and just plain craziness.
I honestly believe that I was this close. The fan could handle an idle but not driving conditions. If I had been able to get both fans over the radiator I think it would have worked, maybe.
It was 50/50 if it was going to succeed. It didn't. To bad. At least I tried.
I was back at square one and trying to figure out how to move the radiator to the front.
Research turned up a guy on the "Volkzone" in England who has a Notch with a turbo Suby. I am replicating his work.
I fit the stock rad in the front, after losing the tubular bumper brace. Cut the front apron so the bumper hides most of the cut and most of the inlet is below the bumper.
It has been slow going. To many projects that have taken priority but I am almost finished.
I will post pix and let you know if it has succeeded.
Anyone know of a good chin spoiler that would fit a late type III?

[VWporscheGT3]

there was one from an early GTI that worked on type 3's it was flexible enough to follow the chin. its written about in the type 3 section a lot , just gotta do a simple search.
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[Axitech]

You say you rented a MIG from Home Depot? Was it flux-cored, or gas shielded? I use a flu-cored and am contemplating getting the gas shielding upgrade.
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[D2NE]

[W1K1]

[D2NE]

OK. Finished placement of the radiator up front. I used 1 inch 16G aluminum pipe that I picked up from Lowes. They come in 8 ft lengths. Ended up using 4 pieces. I have 3 sections on each side. I used silicone rad hoses that reduced down from 1.5 inches to 1 inch at the radiator and the engine side. Used 1 inch straight pieces at the joints in the middle of the tube runs.

Sorry no pix yet.

My weird idle issues have been solved with the replacement of the temp sensor that the EMC was receiving a signal from. This $25 piece created more havoc than can be imagined. Not until I was working on my sons Isuzu Trooper did I discover that this was the culprit. Once I replaced it it ran perfectly.

I have successfully driven around town without a single issue. It runs great and strong. No stalling, no idles issue, no over heating, nothing but smooth runs. The temp stays at a steady 185. I haven't had a single time that the fan has kicked on, yet.

I will try to get more pix up soon.

[D2NE]

Take a look. The sheet metal seals the radiator along its edge and follows the shape of the car. It is sealed top and bottom, and both sides. The sheet metal is screwed to the rad frame and the car. There was no need to make an additional frame. The sheet metal acts as an insulator and frame all in one.

[D2NE]

[Corysvdub]

Looks good, that's the route I'm going to be taking on my swap. Have any other pictures of the plumbing of the water lines?
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66 squareback turboed & squirted

[gm4lnch]

I am getting ready to do the same. I have a 72 Squareback and a 92 Legacy. Why do you think your rear cooling failed? Do you think it was because you used the stock cooling hole where the bellow went or lack of a second fan or do you think just not enough air flow? I am thinking about cutting the inner area to fit the fan perfect and to leave both fans on the radiator, I might even hook them up to a switch together so i can turn them on instantly to help keep temps down. Also how much did the motor stick up out of the lid? Who did you use because I might try to use the same guy to remake my intake and what not. I live just north of you a bit in Aurora. Would love to see this car in person to get some ideas off of.

[D2NE]

[nextgen]

I am the T-4 guy and always debated the T-4 conversion vs the Subie. My most resistance is the major amount of fabrication and the addition of water complicatons, vs the simpler bolt up of the T- 4 without multilatoin of the classic body.

That said I would I am very impressed and like to congratulate you on your conversion. Great fit and stock sleeper look to the Sqbk. !!!!! Also the fact of you not giving up that radiator,ha.

The T-4 Squareback was always my wifes favorite car.

Great combo - Subie – Sqbk. And not much body cutting!!!. Very Nice.

I am sure you will enjoy driving it!!
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[D2NE]

Nextgen Thnx! Nothing that cant be accomplished by anyone here.
As I said, my goal was to keep it under the rear deck lid

Initially I tried to keep the radiator in the rear. As I have said that failed! Once I realized I had to move it up front, I had some adjustments to consider. My original design had the fill bottle going straight into the rad. I had to come up with a solution that kept the bottle at the highest point.

This was it. I also used 1 inch aluminum pipe from Lowes from the engine to the radiator. No pix, but I made a jig out of 2 x 12 to bend the pipes. If I had planned on a radiator up front from the start, my layout would be different.

At first I didn't have a heater, so I only had two pipes running to the front. The first winter mandated a heater. I did not want to tie into the 2 lines going to the radiator. I felt the best option was to use the heater circuit off of the engine for the heater. This required running 2 more lines up front. The lines for this are 5/8 inch tubing rapped in pipe insulation, zip tied to the radiator pipes. You can also see the fuel pump in this last pix.

I do not see anyone else talk about this! Its a roll over switch. If hit hard, it breaks the circuit to the fuel pump and stops fuel from flowing. Easy pickings at the junk yard. Came out of a Ford Windstar mini van.

The control valve for the heater is off of a Ford. It was vacuum controlled. I merged the heaters electronic control to the Ford bypass valve. This allows adjustment of my heat. It is crude, but it is on its second season and works without any issues. I did this in part because of the long run of 5/8 aluminum pipe. I felt this would add to the warm up time if I allowed it to also circulate through the heater without being able to be shut off and shorten the circuit.

This is the Subaru radiator. I would not have done this to the radiator cap if I had known I would end up placing the rad up front. This was in my attempt to place the rad in the rear. down the road I will pick up another radiator and use the radiator cap as a secondary fill point. When and if I do, I will use a higher pressure cap than what is at the fill bottle. I stayed with a single radiator fan. Doesn't run very often. The air is forced out the space where the spare tire used to sit.

I copied someone else in England who has a Notch with a turbo. His cut out for the radiator is very similar.

And the heater as it sits today.

There are things that I want to go back and improve upon as I get the chance. But right now it is functional, reliable and a daily driver.

[D2NE]

Couple more pix that I didn't get in.

[D2NE]

Trying to show alternator bracket and spacers with A/C idler.

[oprn]

Amazing project and nice work!

I am just wondering if you could used a couple small heater cores and fans under the car in the trans axle area to blow heat into the stock heating system?