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Patty B. Samba Member
Joined: July 14, 2005 Posts: 2181 Location: Brampton, Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Mon May 11, 2015 8:04 pm Post subject: |
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Feels like it's a stupid question--I have had my bug parked for a few years while we got some financials in order. I am so excited to get it back on the road again this year! Here's the stupid question as when I went and stood in the motor oil section I was overwhelmed---what oil are you putting in your stock 46 yr old (1969) 83thousand mile beetle? Something without seal swellers! |
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[email protected] Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2011 Posts: 1593 Location: Louisville, ky
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Posted: Mon May 11, 2015 9:42 pm Post subject: |
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Patty B. wrote: |
Feels like it's a stupid question--I have had my bug parked for a few years while we got some financials in order. I am so excited to get it back on the road again this year! Here's the stupid question as when I went and stood in the motor oil section I was overwhelmed---what oil are you putting in your stock 46 yr old (1969) 83thousand mile beetle? Something without seal swellers! |
We don't want you to be overwhelmed. There is a Sticky here on the samba that covers oil and additives.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=220755
It has all the answers you could ever want to know. Of course that sticky itself might be overwhelming, all 181 pages of it. |
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Patty B. Samba Member
Joined: July 14, 2005 Posts: 2181 Location: Brampton, Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Tue May 12, 2015 5:30 am Post subject: |
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Thanks ptjjb! |
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rickrey Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2015 Posts: 1
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Posted: Sun May 24, 2015 10:13 am Post subject: |
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Not sure if this qualifies for the stupid question category or not. What is the correct way to bend a bale to make it fit tighter onto the valve cover. I have a, 69 with rubber gaskets drivers side is tight , passengers is loose, I have cleaned both surfaces of junk, but still get a healthy drip. and bale just does not seem tight enough. Thanks for any help on this........... |
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Walter4 Samba Member
Joined: May 23, 2012 Posts: 57 Location: Virginia
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Posted: Sun May 24, 2015 12:33 pm Post subject: |
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I don't know if it's the "right way" but to tighten my bales, I just pull them off the car (they are held on by their own tension, no bolts) and then bend in the sides while putting my knee in the middle to bend that. Doesn't take much. |
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atticus finch Samba Member
Joined: March 06, 2014 Posts: 126
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Posted: Mon May 25, 2015 7:11 am Post subject: |
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I"ll go ahead & ask what might be a dumb question: I have a `70 beetle with a stock electrical system, does the car have a generator or an alternator? Whatever is back there is stone stock VW, no alterations of any sort.
In stating or using the word alternator, I reference a std GM alternator where the field is artificially or electrically induced via the voltage regulator.
My understanding of a generator is it's a permanant magnet, hence no artificially induced field, the permanant magnet does that job.
Which does my beetle have? Either or a combination thereof?
My understanding is it's a generator in the traditional sense or understanding of the definition, yet there's a green field wire on there so I'm stuck on what I'm looking at.
What is stock on a 70 beetle? |
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[email protected] Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2011 Posts: 1593 Location: Louisville, ky
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Posted: Mon May 25, 2015 10:03 pm Post subject: |
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atticus finch wrote: |
I"ll go ahead & ask what might be a dumb question: I have a `70 beetle with a stock electrical system, does the car have a generator or an alternator? Whatever is back there is stone stock VW, no alterations of any sort.
In stating or using the word alternator, I reference a std GM alternator where the field is artificially or electrically induced via the voltage regulator.
My understanding of a generator is it's a permanant magnet, hence no artificially induced field, the permanant magnet does that job.
Which does my beetle have? Either or a combination thereof?
My understanding is it's a generator in the traditional sense or understanding of the definition, yet there's a green field wire on there so I'm stuck on what I'm looking at.
What is stock on a 70 beetle? |
The switch from generator to alternator happened in the middle of 1973, so if bone stock you have a generator. The idiot light on the dash is a vital warning light. Yea, not charging sucks but much more importantly if your generator is not spinning neither is your fan. No spinning fan means engine meltdown is imminent.
Visually the generator is the same diameter it's entire length the alternator has a fat section and a skinny section.
Generator
Alternator
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MagmaJctAz Samba Member
Joined: November 26, 2011 Posts: 289 Location: Mesa, AZ
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Posted: Thu May 28, 2015 8:35 pm Post subject: |
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atticus finch wrote: |
I"ll go ahead & ask what might be a dumb question: I have a `70 beetle with a stock electrical system, does the car have a generator or an alternator? Whatever is back there is stone stock VW, no alterations of any sort.
In stating or using the word alternator, I reference a std GM alternator where the field is artificially or electrically induced via the voltage regulator.
My understanding of a generator is it's a permanant magnet, hence no artificially induced field, the permanant magnet does that job.
Which does my beetle have? Either or a combination thereof?
My understanding is it's a generator in the traditional sense or understanding of the definition, yet there's a green field wire on there so I'm stuck on what I'm looking at.
What is stock on a 70 beetle? |
You are halfway there. I suppose the simplest way to put it is that the generator generates its power from the armature, (the spinning part).
Whereas the alternator generates its power from the stator (stationary) windings.
If you want to get more into the complex aspects of it:
In a VERY basic sense, both generators and alternators produce Alternating Current, or AC. But cars have Direct Current, or DC electrical systems. A generator converts its AC immediately to DC with a rotating switch called a "commutator". As the current beings to fall during the change in direction, that coil is cut out of the circuit by the rotating commutator, and another coil is switched in. Regulation has to occur AFTER the current is sent out of the generator. Permanent magnets are not used. Field windings are used to produce the magnetic field the armature rotates within. However, residual magnetism is present in the casing.
An alternator produces AC completely. However, it is converted by silicone rectifier diodes to DC. (This was not possible pre-transistor era!) This allows for current to be produced in the stator. No mechanical switching takes place! In fact, even with an external regulator, alternators are in a sense, internally regulated. By adjusting the voltage fed into the rotor (rotating part) the output voltage/current can be regulated at the output terminal.
Generators generally require more maintenance than alternators. This is because 100% of all power passes through the commutator and brushes. The more power you demand from these generators, such as with power hungry speakers, the more current passes through the brushes, and the faster they wear.
Alternators, in contrast, produce their power in the stationary, stator, windings. No power the vehicle's electrical system uses passes through brushes. However, the rotor windings do receive their power from the regulator through slip rings and brushes. But the regulator voltage uses such little power, the brushes can be must smaller, and last nearly the life of the alternator.
Regards,
Mike
P.S. Being pulled away from the computer. No time for error checking and correcting. My apologies! _________________ 1974 Super Beetle. Owned since 1995. Daily Driver. Turned over odometer twice!
1971 Fastback. Check out my Fastback resurrection thread!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=627711&highlight= |
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Danwvw Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2012 Posts: 8892 Location: Oregon Coast
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Posted: Thu May 28, 2015 9:18 pm Post subject: |
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I really like the simplicity of the Alternator, The Armature is just and Electro Magnet and it only takes about an amp through it to generate something like 20 amps in the stater windings.
Alternator Stater:
And Here is a Generator Apart:
Generator field coil:
_________________ 1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths! |
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SBD Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2012 Posts: 3269 Location: SOUTH DAKOTA
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Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 11:05 am Post subject: |
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I've been searching to find some sort of verification or assurance with no luck so here I am at the Stupid Question Thread.
My Kelmark is built on (as far a I can tell) a pretty much bone stock 1970 manual trans Beetle with a 1600 SP. It has a 30 PICT-3 carb (revision # VW 226-1) and (when I bought it) came equipped with a 231 115 078 (113 905 205 AA) distributor. My research says this distributor is for a 1969 Beetle with an auto stick trans but it can be used as a replacement for a 1970 model with an auto stick. The vacuum advance diaphragm was dead on the distributor when I got the car so I pulled it and stuck in an 009 with a Pertronix unit that I had.
The 078 distributor is in great shape, with no slop, and the PO even replaced the cap, rotor and points right before I bought the car. I'd like to put an SVDA type distributor on the car for all of the advantages they offer but I know that most won't work with my carb. So, here's my stupid question. Will the 078 play nice with my 30 PICT-3 like I THINK it will (and will I be sorta' happy, even though it was intended for an auto stick car)? Is it worth finding a new vacuum advance can (#277) and putting it in the car?
And I can probably do some more research and find out, but does anybody here know if the 009 Pertronix Ignitor will fit in the 078 distributor? Thanks everybody!
EDIT: Okay, found the answer about the Ignitor. It's a no-go. The distributors use 2 different kits.
ANOTHER EDIT: I took the gamble and bought a NOS vacuum can for the distributor. Cleaned & lubed the distributor (both the vacuum and mechanical advances were frozen up from caked up crud), installed the vacuum canister and installed it in my car, timed at 0*. The carb and distributor play VERY WELL together. Its only been in there a couple of days so I haven't run it enough to get any mileage numbers but the car seems to run smoother and is much easier to drive than it was with the 009/Pertronix Ignitor combo I had (Yeah, big surprise there ). I've already ordered a points eliminator module for the distributor and plan to use it and keep the 009 as a backup. _________________ "Just $99 down and $64 a month for 36 months buys you a brand new Volkswagen Beetle!"
mark tucker wrote: |
I wouldent waste $ or thyme on building a small motor. build it big so it dosent have to work hard.remember it's only as fast as your foot alows it to be unless you build a small turd then it just stinks as it squishes up through your toes when you step on it. |
Last edited by SBD on Sat Jun 20, 2015 4:03 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Walter4 Samba Member
Joined: May 23, 2012 Posts: 57 Location: Virginia
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Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 5:25 pm Post subject: |
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What's so special about a HURST shifter? |
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Relyt Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2012 Posts: 1008 Location: WA
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Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 12:59 am Post subject: |
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Walter4 wrote: |
What's so special about a HURST shifter? |
The price... _________________ 69 Beetle - Daily driver
1600 SP (unknown history)
30 PICT 1 w/power circuit (Volkzbitz)
205T (Bill) |
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67jason Samba Member
Joined: August 28, 2005 Posts: 4741 Location: behind my back feet - Pittsburg CA
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Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 1:25 am Post subject: |
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Walter4 wrote: |
What's so special about a HURST shifter? |
real ones are decent and hold up well and offer a firmer shifting experience over stock. knockoffs fall apart.
if you want a really good shifter get a Berg. _________________ 67 bug x3
67 ghia
64 bug |
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Walter4 Samba Member
Joined: May 23, 2012 Posts: 57 Location: Virginia
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Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 4:57 am Post subject: |
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I was asking because my car has one. The PO said he got it as an upgrade from VW when he bought the car. (Sometimes it's so nice to have contact with the PO/OO). I don't care for the way it looks, but it sounds like replacing it with a "stock" lever might cause more trouble than it's worth. |
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Walter4 Samba Member
Joined: May 23, 2012 Posts: 57 Location: Virginia
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Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 5:00 am Post subject: |
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Another question:
I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge. I can see in the tubing that there are large air pockets. Do I need to do something about them? Are they affecting the readings of the gauge? |
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clutch276 Samba Member
Joined: May 15, 2015 Posts: 1 Location: United States
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Posted: Sat Jun 20, 2015 2:32 pm Post subject: Will 69 beam work on 68? |
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I have 68 beetle and 69 beetle parts car. My question is will the 69 beam fit on my 68? |
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SBD Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2012 Posts: 3269 Location: SOUTH DAKOTA
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Posted: Sat Jun 20, 2015 3:53 pm Post subject: Re: Will 69 beam work on 68? |
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clutch276 wrote: |
I have 68 beetle and 69 beetle parts car. My question is will the 69 beam fit on my 68? |
Yes _________________ "Just $99 down and $64 a month for 36 months buys you a brand new Volkswagen Beetle!"
mark tucker wrote: |
I wouldent waste $ or thyme on building a small motor. build it big so it dosent have to work hard.remember it's only as fast as your foot alows it to be unless you build a small turd then it just stinks as it squishes up through your toes when you step on it. |
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Volks Wagen Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2013 Posts: 2926 Location: Germany
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Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2015 11:23 am Post subject: |
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Walter4 wrote: |
Another question:
I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge. I can see in the tubing that there are large air pockets. Do I need to do something about them? Are they affecting the readings of the gauge? |
Yes, the air will compress more than oil and give you lower pressure readings. _________________ 1973 1303 with AB-motor - sporadic
reconstruction as time permits, 1986 ex-Bundeswehr Doka - on the road again.
I'm definitely, probably, the worlds greatest lover.
Aithníonn ciaróg ciaróg eile. |
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caffeine Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2011 Posts: 47 Location: St. Cloud, MN
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Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 8:43 pm Post subject: |
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So are any of you static drop folk using any sort of sacrificial scraping material or are you just letting the lowest spots "auto clearance"?
I googled the crap out of it and can't find any good info. I'd like to use something that's easily replaceable. Once the pinch welds on the beam are gone what's next? |
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Middle child Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2009 Posts: 119 Location: Minnesota
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Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 4:44 pm Post subject: Anybody chronicle changing a '74 back to an oval? |
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I guess the subject line tells or asks what I am wanting to read. Nothing I typed into the search bar came up with too much of anything. I have a donor car picked out if what's his name ever gets off his duff and gives me a $$ number. |
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