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82cabby
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2005
Posts: 332
Location: West Falls, NY
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 Posted: Mon May 25, 2015 11:39 am Post subject: B+ stud stripped |
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Hi gang-
After many years of use, the threads on the B+ stud on my Bosch alternator are completely shot. The nut cannot be tightened. There is not enough left for chasing it with a die to do any good. Is it possible to replace that stud? Can it be done without pulling the alternator?
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Thanks
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 31379
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Mon May 25, 2015 7:38 pm Post subject: Re: B+ stud stripped |
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| 82cabby wrote: |
| Any suggestions would be appreciated! |
82 - I'm what I term an "idiot genius", and Mrs. Cusser says I'm half-right.
I think I would just use some ingenuity and use something that can anchor to the remnants of the stud, like one of these that you tap the long end for threads, and then trap the wire terminal between two nuts.
Another idea is use or make something like this and just attach the wire on the side, maybe even a VW accelerator barrel nut could be used.
I've also seen plastic nuts that may thread on to what you have left, just may need to use a new nut like that each time you remove.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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swhitcomb
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Joined: November 05, 2003
Posts: 5673
Location: Inwood WV
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| Posted: Mon May 25, 2015 8:45 pm Post subject: |
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Chase it with the next size down tap. Can't remember what size it is off the top of my head. Then use a smaller nut.
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modok
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2009
Posts: 26788
Location: Colorado Springs
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| Posted: Mon May 25, 2015 11:34 pm Post subject: |
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Clean it shinny, finger tight, and solder it!!
Then use a dean's connector in-line |
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82cabby
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2005
Posts: 332
Location: West Falls, NY
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| Posted: Tue May 26, 2015 7:56 pm Post subject: |
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Coo!! Thanks for the ideas guys!
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82cabby
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2005
Posts: 332
Location: West Falls, NY
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| Posted: Tue May 26, 2015 7:56 pm Post subject: |
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Coo!! Thanks for the ideas guys!
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goober
Samba Member
Joined: May 03, 2003
Posts: 1183
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| Posted: Tue May 26, 2015 9:21 pm Post subject: |
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How about adapting a barrel-nut; like the kind that anchors your heat lever cable to the heat exchanger lever? Using a longer screw with a nut would give you a place to anchor the wire after you've tightened the barrel nut to the post.
I'm not sure what kind of wire or post your alternator has. It'd be a quick fix until you could fix it properly. |
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Hnoroian
Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2013
Posts: 535
Location: Bakersfield
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| Posted: Tue May 26, 2015 9:46 pm Post subject: |
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| modok wrote: |
Clean it shinny, finger tight, and solder it!!
Then use a dean's connector in-line |
I'd second that too. But what size alternator are you using? Deans Ultra plugs are rated at 60 amps continuous. Something bigger like an xt90 might be more suitable.
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kreemoweet
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2008
Posts: 3899
Location: Seattle, WA
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| Posted: Tue May 26, 2015 10:52 pm Post subject: |
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Which Bosch alternator? If it's the AL-82, then the B+ stud is soldered to the big wire coming from the diode assembly. You could pull the
rear end plate (rear is REAR!), disconnect fan, etc. in shroud, pull the rotor out, and then the stator and and the diode assembly (4 screws, might be tuff due to alum. corrosion). Find a suitable
M5 bolt/screw to replace the old one, and re-solder. Reassemble. Probably a lot easier just to remove the alternator first. Or use one of the hacks suggested above.
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 31379
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Wed May 27, 2015 7:12 am Post subject: |
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| goober wrote: |
| How about adapting a barrel-nut; like the kind that anchors your heat lever cable to the heat exchanger lever? Using a longer screw with a nut would give you a place to anchor the wire after you've tightened the barrel nut to the post. |
That's a GREAT idea Goob....why I posted it in Post #2:
| Cusser wrote: |
Another idea is use or make something like this and just attach the wire on the side, maybe even a VW accelerator barrel nut could be used.
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_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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82cabby
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2005
Posts: 332
Location: West Falls, NY
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| Posted: Wed May 27, 2015 7:15 am Post subject: |
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Great minds think alike!
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Bob Brugge
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Joined: April 09, 2015
Posts: 721
Location: Missoula, MT
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| Posted: Thu May 28, 2015 7:37 am Post subject: |
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| Why screw around with a half assed fix? If it were me I would simply replace the alternator!!! |
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 31379
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Thu May 28, 2015 11:51 am Post subject: |
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| Bob Brugge wrote: |
| Why screw around with a half assed fix? If it were me I would simply replace the alternator!!! |
Not me - I'd give it the old college try to fix. I'm a problem solver, like the challenges.
82 - be sure to post here how you finally resolved this !
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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Hnoroian
Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2013
Posts: 535
Location: Bakersfield
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| Posted: Thu May 28, 2015 4:27 pm Post subject: |
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| Cusser wrote: |
| Bob Brugge wrote: |
| Why screw around with a half assed fix? If it were me I would simply replace the alternator!!! |
Not me - I'd give it the old college try to fix. I'm a problem solver, like the challenges.
82 - be sure to post here how you finally resolved this ! |
That and a new alt. is $100 or more.
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82cabby
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2005
Posts: 332
Location: West Falls, NY
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| Posted: Fri May 29, 2015 4:01 pm Post subject: |
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Hi gang-
I think I am going to order a new alternator. When it was just the stud, I figured I wasn't going to spend $100 to solve a $0.15 problem... but I have been having charging issues.
I took the alternator to the shop and they could confirm that it put out 13.5 volts but couldn't load test it beyond 10 amps. My headlights draw 20 amps and it seems the alternator can't keep up. SOOOOooooo....
I went with the following:
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-5750-KT
I know it's a Chinese knock off, but I wanted the higher amp rating and couldn't bring myself to spring for the compufire unit. Also, the combo ended up being $10 less than the alternator by itself and I needed a new belt anyway. I would have preferred plain to chrome, but they didn't offer one in the 75 amp version.
So, that is that.
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