Author |
Message |
reluctantartist Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2006 Posts: 1927 Location: Bloomington, IN
|
Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 5:55 pm Post subject: Removing front struts |
|
|
I am removing my front struts. Is there any tricjks to getting them out og the control arm? I sprayed with pb blaster and all the bolts came out easily enough... Before I start torging and twisting I want to make sure I am not missing something.Hopefully I am not dealing with a sitution where it has corroded in place.
Thanks _________________ 1982 Westy, 1974 412 Variant... Yes, Aircooled's are great! Oh and I do have modern computer controlled vehicles too, but I just don't care about them. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 21474 Location: Oklahoma City
|
Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 8:07 pm Post subject: |
|
|
A little....but that depends on how long they have been on and how much water has gotten into the steering knuckle.
The best way to do this....really....is to pull the two caliper bolts and get a stout piece of wire to hang the caliper up out of the way to not strain the hose.
Then....with a pickle fork.....with the angled ramped side against the steering knuckle arm to not scrb on the boot much....detach the tie rod end.
Unbolt both outer links of the sway bar from the control arms.
Remove the three bolts that bolt the knuckle and strut to the ball joint. Put down a board on the ground in case the unit drops so you dont ding the rotor.
Remove the top three strut bolts. Push down on the strut with you hands on the spring and your toe on the control arm inboard of the ball joint. The strut will move down a bit. When the strut bushing is clear of its hole by about 4-6"......lift the strut about an inch...while holding the control arm down with your foot.......and push the knuckle off the ball joint sideways.
The knuckle may call off or jangle loose with the weight of the rotor on it. Thats fine....
once the knuckle and rotor are clear towards the outside of the car....yes its about 50+ lbs all told so watch your toes......lower the assembly down and slide it on the floor until the strut mount clears the fender. Put it on the workbench and use spray carb cleaner or a brush and solvent to clear rust and crust away from the bottkm side of the steering knuckle before trying to remove the knuckle from the knob on the strut which is a smooth fit. Not an interference fit or a dead fit.....but a slip fit.
Lube it up and work it around in a circle....more lube....more solvent.
When its off..... I make thin paper or aluminum gaskets to seal top and bottom. I can scan and post a printable copy of one with a scale to make a pattern.
In this way water will never leak in again. ....and you polish the knob on the strut and the bore in the knuckle....which it originally was.....and use a lot of antiseize to coat all surfaces inside so no rust....before cementing the gaskets on with permatex ultra overnight drying. Ray |
|
Back to top |
|
|
reluctantartist Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2006 Posts: 1927 Location: Bloomington, IN
|
Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 2:35 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Hey Ray, yes please send me the gasket pattern or post it. Is there a way to lub the ball joint at this point since I have access to it? _________________ 1982 Westy, 1974 412 Variant... Yes, Aircooled's are great! Oh and I do have modern computer controlled vehicles too, but I just don't care about them. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 21474 Location: Oklahoma City
|
Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 4:46 pm Post subject: |
|
|
reluctantartist wrote: |
Hey Ray, yes please send me the gasket pattern or post it. Is there a way to lub the ball joint at this point since I have access to it? |
This is what the gaskets are really for. On the strut side of the ball joint.m..you should see a small hole. Mount a low profile grease fitting in that hole.
Inside of the cavity...dead center on the ball joint.....drill a 1/8" hole. Get as much of the metal out as you can but dont really, worry about it too much. The hole drills into the center of the, spring kver the nylon cup so you wont hit, anything.
Then assemble the knuckle, strut and joint with thin sealant on both sides of the gaskets. Let it dry....then pump the cavity full of grease.....and it will also flow into and through the joint and out the boot side.
The type od grease the joint has from the factory is a black moly grease very similar to CV joint grease but thicker. If you can dind coastal brand moly-graphite grease....or similar....it works perfectly.
I will post the gasket in just a little while. Use the thinnest hardest gasket paper you can, find. Ray |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|