Rear wheel bearing housing, how to get it off?

[Lars S]

Fitted the new outer bearing and race today, there is no play any longer and I did not have to overtighten it to get there. Will check after some miles running.


//Lars S
_________________
Porsche 914 -72, Bahia Red daily driver
VW411 2-d -70, White, sold
VW412 4-d, -73, Gold Metallic, daily driver
Suzuki T500, -69, Candy Gold, sold
Suzuki K50, -77, Black, daily driver
BMW R69S -69, White, sold
Husqvarna 118cc, -47, Black, Sold

[raygreenwood]

Excellent! These same excercises for me is what tipped me off long ago about the slight, variations somewhere in bearing manufacture.

I would drive for a 100 miles or so and check again. Generally at that point I loosen and then reset preload. Ray

[titan3c]

Gentlemen, I've learned a lot in reading this post Recently I had to replace CV joints on the drivers side----split boots--, and while I had the drive shaft off, the inside flange, and the wheel hub shaft off I thought about replacing the bearings since they were easily accessible. Bought bearings, and race, but from two different sources. Question----was that not a good idea? I have the type 4 seals. There was no noise from the bearings, and the car isn't driven much so I didn't replace them. Question 2: I put a small amount of grease in the spacer area, not much. Should I be more generous with the amt of grease I put in there, and should I add grease to the bearings? I've got it all back together, but it's still up on work stands, and not much trouble to remove the bolt, and take it apart again. BTW there is no play either 12 to 6 or 3 to 9. It's solid no play. Bob

[titan3c]

With reference to my previous post. Mine is a 71 411 with 127,000 miles, and I've had the car since new so I know it's history. Bob

[raygreenwood]

Personally....from experience...anytime I have ready access to the bearings I renew the seals (cheap insurance)....and at least pull and repack the bearings and inspect the races. Dont mix up inner with outer since you are going to leave the races in pressed in unless you see scoring or spalling....or even a dullness and lack of shine.

Also make note of the brand of thee bearings. The originals were FAG or SKF....and if they are very good condition original bearings they will last a long time.

Yes, keeping the area around the inner spacer full with grease makes sure that the bearings do not push their grease out into the cavity. It will not flow back in.

I added a grease fitting to the bottom of the chamber at the 6 o'clock position. I pack the bearings, and before installing the wheel and joints I pump in a couple of ounces of grease while turning the wheel.. ...just until I see it start to come past the seal lip. then wipe it clean....and turn it about 50 revs more...then wipe again. In hot climatees the bearinsg last a lot longer this way. Ray