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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CurbRogerD wrote:
Can I put Girling calipers on my 1977? I currently have ATE calipers. I'm replacing both.

Yes, the holes on the spindles and line locations are the same.
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barefootwestie
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 5:39 am    Post subject: Mechanical Fuel Pump Reply with quote

My mechanical fuel pump is still in place since the PO installed a electric pump. There is an engine tin that I'd like to remove to clean and paint, but the mechanical pump is in the way.

1. If I remove it temporarily, would oil flow out?
2. Is there a way to check the pump after removal to see if it is still good?[/s]
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Skoolieman
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 5:43 am    Post subject: Re: Mechanical Fuel Pump Reply with quote

barefootwestie wrote:
My mechanical fuel pump is still in place since the PO installed a electric pump. There is an engine tin that I'd like to remove to clean and paint, but the mechanical pump is in the way.

1. If I remove it temporarily, would oil flow out?
2. Is there a way to check the pump after removal to see if it is still good?[/s]


Oil shouldn't run out unless you are running it while it is off, then some may spew out. First thing to check is the pushrod. you'll need to make sure it is there, not binding on the case and is the right length (you'll have to search for that)

I would take it apart and see if it moves smoothly and if the diaphragm is still intact.
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barefootwestie
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 5:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. It definitely wont be running... the top end is all apart. Ill check out the threads on the testing. Thanks again.
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Thrasher22
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would I be putting unnecessary wear on the bus if I used a spare that was decently smaller than the rest? Logically (to me) I wouldn't think so, it would just wear the tire out faster, but I want to double check.

I've done too much body work to mount one on the front and want to put one in my cabinet, but to do so would need to shave a few inches off my current full size spare.

Currently I just drive around with it loose on the floor, which is a huge safety issue I'd like to change Smile
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put it on a go for a drive, front and then back, then decide if that feeling is something you want to battle for 100 miles+ until you can get the real wheel fixed.

You won't "hurt" anything putting on a compact wheel, but it will make the bus drive funny and may be dangerously over the tire's load limit unless you find one for a truck. Long term it'll wear the spider gears in the differential if it's on the back, but for temporary use it's only the handling that will suffer.
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beatles4
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am a bit noobish and I think this qualifies as my first real question in this thread but how bad is the cardone master brake cylinder that advance auto part sells? I was asking my friend about some parts and his only answer was original german parts. I dont know if that means old stock german made that would have the rubber probably falling off by now. He said avoid brazilian parts like the plague and I have to imagine if the Brazilians had these cars running for so long things like brakes must not be catastrophically bad. Well anyway I was trying to see what I can get from advance auto, they have a store right by my house and they have these ridiculous $40 or $50 off orders of $100 all the time. Is this a bad master brake cylinder?


http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/cardone-master-cylinder-remanufactured-11-1558/5803748-P
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Thrasher22
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Put it on a go for a drive, front and then back, then decide if that feeling is something you want to battle for 100 miles+ until you can get the real wheel fixed.

You won't "hurt" anything putting on a compact wheel, but it will make the bus drive funny and may be dangerously over the tire's load limit unless you find one for a truck. Long term it'll wear the spider gears in the differential if it's on the back, but for temporary use it's only the handling that will suffer.


It would be purely just to limp to a tire shop, so I'll give it a shot. Thanks!
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beatles4
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am looking to completely overhaul my brakes and I am starting with the rear. I was on busdepot and compiled this list
So far on my list I will be ordering
*drum
*shoes
*rubber lines
*spring kit
*wheel cylinders
*brake master

Then I found I should probably replace the wheel bearings and the seals for them. I saw this youtube video and he replaces some gasket and an other o ring. What would you call those so I can add them to the list of things to order?


Link
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

beatles4 wrote:
I am looking to completely overhaul my brakes and I am starting with the rear. I was on busdepot and compiled this list
So far on my list I will be ordering
*drum
*shoes
*rubber lines
*spring kit
*wheel cylinders
*brake master

Then I found I should probably replace the wheel bearings and the seals for them. I saw this youtube video and he replaces some gasket and an other o ring. What would you call those so I can add them to the list of things to order?


Why not just call Bus Depot and tell them what you are doing and just let them supply the seals and such.
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Himejii
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 2:32 pm    Post subject: Why is it called a sending unit? Reply with quote

Why is it called a sending unit? Is it just because it "sends" the fuel level data to the gauge?

And how reliable is it? I just pulled my tank and the sending unit was covered in rust, but it mostly turned out to be deposited rust from the tank. It was actually really cool, because the negative-printed numbers on the unit had grown into positive/raised numbers in rust. I wish I'd taken a picture, because it'll take another 20 years for that to happen again! (<3 Science!)

Anyway, it was a PITA pulling the tank and I don't want to do it again just to replace the sender. Can I test it before it's installed? And if so, and it tests OK, is there any way to guestimate how long it will be good for?

Or should I just replace it as a precaution?

... Seems reasonable to assume, from the fact that so many people actually cut holes in their bus, that sending units are not the most reliable part. I'm not cutting a hole in my bus.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 3:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Why is it called a sending unit? Reply with quote

Himejii wrote:
Why is it called a sending unit? Is it just because it "sends" the fuel level data to the gauge?

And how reliable is it? I just pulled my tank and the sending unit was covered in rust, but it mostly turned out to be deposited rust from the tank. It was actually really cool, because the negative-printed numbers on the unit had grown into positive/raised numbers in rust. I wish I'd taken a picture, because it'll take another 20 years for that to happen again! (<3 Science!)

Anyway, it was a PITA pulling the tank and I don't want to do it again just to replace the sender. Can I test it before it's installed? And if so, and it tests OK, is there any way to guestimate how long it will be good for?

Or should I just replace it as a precaution?

... Seems reasonable to assume, from the fact that so many people actually cut holes in their bus, that sending units are not the most reliable part. I'm not cutting a hole in my bus.


VW specced where to cut the hole in the deck to make it easier to access the sender. Excellent idea in my opinion. My cover is more fire proof than the deck lid over the engine bay and can't be seen unless I have rolled up the carpet to access the engine to begin with. If I need to test my sender or to tweak it for some reason then the job is about as easy as any car out there.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sending units are very reliable (at least the OG German ones are), after 40 years everything gets a little old and worn, but with a comprehensive rebuild there's no reason not to expect anther 40 years out of it.
The early tube types are succeptible to corrosion from moisture in the gas tank or ethanol, there's a fix for the ground rivet that restores them to like new. The later arm type wears on the wires where the wiper contacts them, not hard to rewind the wire with new. They also suffer when the voltage regulator (vibrator) on the back of the gauge sticks, there's plans here for an electronic version to eliminate that risk. Corrosion also attacks the terminal rivets and wiper tension spring, keeping your gas clean and buying the good stuff pays off in ways you never imagined.
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Estacaco
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why am I having such a problem finding emergency/parking brake cables for a 69 transporter without servo?

Tried JustKampers, Gowesty, CIP1, Concept1, aircooled.net.
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wihr
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They list them at Wolfsburg West. I do not know if they are in stock however.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Estacaco wrote:
Why am I having such a problem finding emergency/parking brake cables for a 69 transporter without servo?

Tried JustKampers, Gowesty, CIP1, Concept1, aircooled.net.


Bus Depot list them
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Estacaco
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it seems the 70-71 with servo brake cables are the same as 69 without servo.
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dirtkeeper
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 71 bus with a defroster In the rear window . Does the ground wire just get screwed to the face of the door or does it go inside the headliner hinge and get screwed there?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dirtkeeper wrote:
I have a 71 bus with a defroster In the rear window . Does the ground wire just get screwed to the face of the door or does it go inside the headliner hinge and get screwed there?

It screws to the body near one of the hinge cover screws.
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beatles4
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am rebuilding my sliding door mechanism because it has some sag to it and I need to apply some pressure to help it close in the back. I was on bus depot and came across this. I didn't have much in the way or results in searching it on this forum. Does anyone have them or at least tried them or am I wasting my money? The description on the product even cites sagging doors or hard to close doors.

http://www.busdepot.com/j18875

I also think I need one of these as well.
http://www.busdepot.com/211843368
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