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arthurnugen
Samba Member
Joined: January 11, 2005
Posts: 3081
Location: The PNW, where "going green" means rolling with moss.
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 Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 10:17 am Post subject: |
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These are good reads:
http://www.surepower.com/pdf/ebr_int.pdf
http://www.surepower.com/pdf/180119A.pdf
Those directions you posted are horrible.
_________________
| cdennisg wrote: |
| Lawyers don't deserve buses. |
| zozo wrote: |
| Don't worry too much. You can always trust a lawyer. |
ALWAYS WEAR STEEL-TOE BOOTS IN THE GARAGE!
1965 Bus (Riviera camper)
1972 Bug 'vert
1967 Bug sunroof
1961 Ghia 'vert
1957 DKW 3=6: 3 cylinder 2 stroke! |
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MrBusCo 
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2007
Posts: 1561
Location: stoughton, WI
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| Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 10:36 am Post subject: |
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thanks for those links. They will make some great bed time reading. Yes the instructions left me scratching my head a bit.... hence my post here..
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Josh The Bus Guy formerly known as JOGR
BlazeCutUSA.com MrBusCo.com |
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OB Bus
Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2003
Posts: 2537
Location: Ocean Beach in Beautiful BLUE California
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| Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 10:37 am Post subject: |
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| Fish wrote: |
| The only bad point is the deep cycle has no cranking amps so you can't use it to jump start your bus or another car if the other ones goes dead. |
Got to disagree here Fish. My (former) boat - and many boats - have only deep cycles and they start just fine. I have jumped my own bus from the deep cycle to the dead "starting" battery. As well I have jumped a whole bunch of other vehicles (including the SV2s Club Bus) off that same deep cycle battery.
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Larry in OB
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
69 Westfalia and 2002 Eurovan Camper. |
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OB Bus
Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2003
Posts: 2537
Location: Ocean Beach in Beautiful BLUE California
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| Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 10:39 am Post subject: |
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And my Sure Power isolator works just fine with a generator. At start up the red gen light comes, but I just blip the throttle up a bit and it goes off. Guess it needs the 14v level to "start".
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Larry in OB
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
69 Westfalia and 2002 Eurovan Camper. |
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MrBusCo
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2007
Posts: 1561
Location: stoughton, WI
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| Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 1:41 pm Post subject: |
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ah ok, read them.. ordered the surepower 702 and a 50 amp fuse... will place the one I already have in the parts bin for... something else not sure what. at least it was cheap.
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Josh The Bus Guy formerly known as JOGR
BlazeCutUSA.com MrBusCo.com |
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arthurnugen
Samba Member
Joined: January 11, 2005
Posts: 3081
Location: The PNW, where "going green" means rolling with moss.
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| Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:34 pm Post subject: |
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Here's a pic of my setup. Now I know there's lots of ways to skin a cat and some of you may have done it differently, but here's what works for me:
_________________
| cdennisg wrote: |
| Lawyers don't deserve buses. |
| zozo wrote: |
| Don't worry too much. You can always trust a lawyer. |
ALWAYS WEAR STEEL-TOE BOOTS IN THE GARAGE!
1965 Bus (Riviera camper)
1972 Bug 'vert
1967 Bug sunroof
1961 Ghia 'vert
1957 DKW 3=6: 3 cylinder 2 stroke! |
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Fish
Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2000
Posts: 5559
Location: OB. It's beside the point.
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| Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 5:22 pm Post subject: |
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| OB Bus wrote: |
| Fish wrote: |
| The only bad point is the deep cycle has no cranking amps so you can't use it to jump start your bus or another car if the other ones goes dead. |
Got to disagree here Fish. My (former) boat - and many boats - have only deep cycles and they start just fine. I have jumped my own bus from the deep cycle to the dead "starting" battery. As well I have jumped a whole bunch of other vehicles (including the SV2s Club Bus) off that same deep cycle battery. |
 That's what I was told when I built my set up. I never tried jumping the deep cell to a regular battery, but then once I installed this system I never had a dead starting battery. Sorry for passing along bad information.
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Prosit!
.·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·..><((((º>
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# 303 and #156
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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EDragnDean
Samba Member
Joined: July 13, 2005
Posts: 1148
Location: Vancouver, WA
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| Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 6:57 pm Post subject: |
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| arthurnugen wrote: |
Here's a pic of my setup. Now I know there's lots of ways to skin a cat and some of you may have done it differently, but here's what works for me:
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Thanks for the post. I've been working on this myself. Couple of questions... yellow top optima vs red? The junction between the switch and the aux battery, is that your fuse? And what gauge wiring did you use?
thanks |
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arthurnugen
Samba Member
Joined: January 11, 2005
Posts: 3081
Location: The PNW, where "going green" means rolling with moss.
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| Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 8:17 pm Post subject: |
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I went yellow Optima b/c that was recommended by the battery store as well. Pretty sure it is 10 ga. Yep, that little silver thing is a 50 amp breaker. It is supposed to reset itself if tripped (I think).
Arthur
_________________
| cdennisg wrote: |
| Lawyers don't deserve buses. |
| zozo wrote: |
| Don't worry too much. You can always trust a lawyer. |
ALWAYS WEAR STEEL-TOE BOOTS IN THE GARAGE!
1965 Bus (Riviera camper)
1972 Bug 'vert
1967 Bug sunroof
1961 Ghia 'vert
1957 DKW 3=6: 3 cylinder 2 stroke! |
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Major Woody
Samba Enigma
Joined: December 04, 2002
Posts: 9010
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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I have an extra breaker just like that if anyone needs it, yours for the cost of shipping. I prefer an inline fuse.
Yellow top Optima is deep cycle, red is standard.
A battery that may get run down before being recharged should be a deep cycle. Discharging a standard battery as one would when camping would quickly ruin it.
Here is our setup. Same isolator, but the leisure battery is in the left rear tray as I wanted as much of the space under the seat as possible for storage. It is very difficult to mount a leisure battery there if you have a gas heater, but it can be done as long as both the leisure battery and the gas heater are planned and installed together. The fuse or breaker must be mounted as close as practicable to the battery.
The little doodads on the right are the relay/controls for the heater and an aux fusebox for the loads on the leisure battery. |
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arthurnugen
Samba Member
Joined: January 11, 2005
Posts: 3081
Location: The PNW, where "going green" means rolling with moss.
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| Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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^ Ok, now that's just pretty! Looks great. 
_________________
| cdennisg wrote: |
| Lawyers don't deserve buses. |
| zozo wrote: |
| Don't worry too much. You can always trust a lawyer. |
ALWAYS WEAR STEEL-TOE BOOTS IN THE GARAGE!
1965 Bus (Riviera camper)
1972 Bug 'vert
1967 Bug sunroof
1961 Ghia 'vert
1957 DKW 3=6: 3 cylinder 2 stroke! |
|
| Back to top |
|
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EDragnDean
Samba Member
Joined: July 13, 2005
Posts: 1148
Location: Vancouver, WA
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austinzuffi
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2015
Posts: 24
Location: San Francisco
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| Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 10:03 am Post subject: So, close! |
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Hey all, currently troubleshooting
Setup my charging system according to the diagram, generator light stays on. I can skip the isolator and hook my main battery up to the regulator (stock setup) and all runs well. Does anybody know if these isolators can go bad? They looks pretty solid state, and I do see continuity from A -> 1 and from A -> 2 terminals with my multimeter.
Events leading up to my situation
two batteries running well using the isolator. ignition switch would not rotate while on the road, hotwired to get home. electrical part of ignition switch was all fried and wouldn't turn, so i replaced it.
generator light on, so i reverted to single battery (stock) setup. generator light still on, so i replaced the regulator; success! generator light turned off and the charging system ran perfectly for many miles.
when i try and add the isolator between the regulator and battery: generator light stays on. specific setup: regulator to 'A' terminal of isolator, then '1' terminal to main battery, '2' terminal to accessory battery
Can anything else have been damaged along with the two pieces that i replaced? Thanks much everybody
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'68 Bus with 1600 dual port |
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Bruce Amacker
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2007
Posts: 1786
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
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austinzuffi
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2015
Posts: 24
Location: San Francisco
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| Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2015 11:04 pm Post subject: |
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| Bruce Amacker wrote: |
Isolators have a high failure rate in RV's that I used to work on. I'd use a regular 5 pin Bosch relay and skip the isolator. It's laid out in detail here somewhere, we discussed it thoroughly.
Good Luck! |
hey thanks! looks like i can hook up B+ terminal from regulator as power input, use the generator-light output as the trigger, and hook up the two batteries appropriately, main to the always-hot terminal, aux to the switched
i never figured out what's wrong with the isolator so this looks like a fine solution. i might be best off charging my batteries before trying any of these setups
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'68 Bus with 1600 dual port |
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Hokie87
Samba Member
Joined: May 27, 2010
Posts: 280
Location: Richmond, VA
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| Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 3:23 pm Post subject: |
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| arthurnugen wrote: |
Now I know there's lots of ways to skin a cat and some of you may have done it differently, but here's what works for me:
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Continuing with the "lots of ways to skin a cat" theme, here's what worked for me:
I used a Battery Doctor battery isolator ( http://www.wirthco.com/battery-volt-battery-isolator-20090-p-1185-l-en.html )
What I like is the override switch -- if the starter battery is dead, I can start the bus with the auxiliary battery with the push of a button.
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fischer68westy
Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2008
Posts: 85
Location: Wisconsin
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| Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 4:56 pm Post subject: Re: SurePower Battery Isolator with Generator |
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Hi,
I'm using this battery isolator set up and with everything connected, the charge light will not go out. If I polarize the generator it seems to work correctly until I turn the bus off and start it up again at which point the charge light won't turn off. If I disconnect the isolator and connect the regulator up as normal,
everything works fine.
I'm using a new solid state Bosch regulator....perhaps that is the issue? |
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Hokie87
Samba Member
Joined: May 27, 2010
Posts: 280
Location: Richmond, VA
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| Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 5:39 pm Post subject: Re: SurePower Battery Isolator with Generator |
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| fischer68westy wrote: |
Hi,
I'm using this battery isolator set up and with everything connected, the charge light will not go out. If I polarize the generator it seems to work correctly until I turn the bus off and start it up again at which point the charge light won't turn off. If I disconnect the isolator and connect the regulator up as normal,
everything works fine.
I'm using a new solid state Bosch regulator....perhaps that is the issue? |
I think what you are describing is the way it is supposed to work. From the user manual:
"TESTING FOR NORMAL OPERATION
1. With the installation complete and the engine ‘Off’ only the red ‘Power’ LED should be on.
2. Start the vehicle’s engine. Within a few seconds the blue ‘Charging’ LED will turn on indicating that the starting battery is above 13.4V and the isolator will start charging the auxiliary battery.
3. If the isolator does not go into ‘Charging mode’ within a few seconds, increase the engine RPM to a fast idle. This will allow the alternator to generate more current.
4. Once the Isolator is in ‘Charging mode,’ turn the engine ‘Off’, then switch the headlights and other accessories ‘On’. The isolator will now detect that the batteries are being used. 60 seconds after the voltage falls below 12.8V, the blue ‘Charging’ LED will turn off and the isolator will disconnect the two batteries from each other." |
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fischer68westy
Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2008
Posts: 85
Location: Wisconsin
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 7:54 am Post subject: Re: SurePower Battery Isolator with Generator |
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| I'm referring to the charge light on the bus dash. There are no lights on the SurePower. |
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