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Decoupler/Diff lock panel frustration
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wes.outside
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 7:21 am    Post subject: Decoupler/Diff lock panel frustration Reply with quote

So, electrical is not my strong suit. I have been reading all the threads that seem to be related, but I don't find anything that helps me out.

I have a Syncro with a rear diff lock and a gowesty Decoupler. Long story short, my controls are screwed up. The transmission and the diff lock are off when the knobs are out, and the indicator lights don't work.

The diff lock engages, and the awd kicks in when the knobs are in. The indicator lights do not come on in either position.

Do I have some wires crossed somewhere? Is there a connection that I have reversed that would cause this?

I am at my wits end,and have been holding off on posting because I can usually dig up answers in older threads. Any help would be appreciated.
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Each has a switch that must be checked.
These switches also have spacer rings to allow them to work properly, if not installed...no light or light on all the time.
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wes.outside
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply - I had read many of your comments in the other threads about the diff lock panels, and hoped that you would see this one.

So, the switches that we are talking about are on the actuators?
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 7:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

next to the actuators, in the cases of the trans, diff and nosecone for decoupler.

The terminals corrode and will need to be cleaned.

The small bulbs in the dash panel go bad as well and can be swapped out.

A test light will verify if the wiring is OK.

Good luck.
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Escorial Syncro
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you have both plumbing and electrical issues. If you are comfortable pulling the knobs and removing the cover plate, you can reverse the air plumbing connections on both switches to correct the "in/out" problem. There's three nipples on each switch, and if memory serves you need to reverse the outside hoses, the middle one being the vacuum feed to the switch.

For the electric side, first check the bulbs. Note, be careful with the little circuit board that houses the bulbs. Can break easily. Ask me how I know.! One of the bulbs comes on with headlights and runs off of a separate circuit, so I usually use that bulb (known good) and try it in the diff lock and decoupler bulb slots and see if those bulb slots are good.

If bulbs prove good, but still don't light when diff/decouplers engage you can check that you have power to diff lock light circuit board. My last job a freaking stereo install guy cut the power to the diff lock light circuit board for the stereo, so you never know.

Beyond that, you have to verify that the switches are working and/or wiring is good.

Hope that gets you started.
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wes.outside
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks to both of you. Joel, good to hear from you!

I am now an old hand at pulling that cover.

I will get on these suggestions and let you know.

Thanks again.
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wes.outside
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, bulbs are good. Do you recall which wire is power to that panel?
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wes.outside
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And switching the vacuum hoses did the trick for correcting the knob position. Cleaned the contacts and looked at the switches on the diff and transmission. Things look good there.

Will check the power to the circuit board when I get home from work. Seems like we're making progress.
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the ground as well.
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Escorial Syncro
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wes.outside wrote:
Ok, bulbs are good. Do you recall which wire is power to that panel?


It's a gray wire with a stripe, can't recall if it's white or black stripe. Test light should find it quickly. Sorry to leave you hanging, during the work day I "turn off" the samba. Otherwise no work gets done! Very Happy
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wes.outside
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Same on turning off the samba.

Messed around with a test light yesterday. It does indeed seem that there is no power to that wire, and I am trying to figure out where that power should be coming from - I am not seeing that diagram in the Bentley.

Anyone happen to know?
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure exactly, but it's just an ignition on wire. On the two occasions that the stereo installer guys have cut that wire on vans I work on, I either just found another ignition on, or was able to find their splice and repair it. I'll try to look today at a syncro I have apart and verify the power wire and where it origniates. If you have no power you could put temporary power to that wire and test the system.
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The feed is the emergency flasher switch.
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Bassyaks
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just swap the vacuum lines at the actuators and you will reverse the actions
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wes.outside
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup, actuators are sorted out. Found the power supply to the light circuits, and got that sorted out. Rear diff lock is sorted. Still working on Decoupler.
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