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Drop engine to replace single port intake gasket?
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guatebus
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 10:55 am    Post subject: Drop engine to replace single port intake gasket? Reply with quote

Anyone have any tips on this?

I have an intake leak where the single port manifold connects to the head and want to put in a new gasket.

Is it feasible to do this without dropping the engine, or is it such a pain in the ass that it's better just to drop the engine?
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In a Bus, i'd pull the engine. And while it's out i'd check the clutch, TO bearing and other stuff.
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esde
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is possible to replace the gaskets without dropping the motor. It is a lot easier to do with the engine out. Depends on your comfort level, and how much room you have to work.
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velvetgreen
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just did this in on 1600 DP- yes it is possible to do in situ but I think you would need to be tantric yoga master to pull it off.

IMHO easier to pull the engine and save your head from banging around crowded engine bay and your back from craning all over the place. My 0.02
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Erik G
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only reason not to pull the motor is if your living situation presents a problem. I know Oakland, I know the hills, I know the lack of flat garage and driveways is pretty normal.

If you have the space, pull the motor. If not, like you are working on the street - it can be done
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guatebus
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I don't have a huge amount of space, though I do have a small garage.

I usually don't break any records when I pull the engine...I tend to take my time.

I guess I'll pull the engine, swap the gaskets and do some other maintenance while I have the chance.

It is my daily driver, so it's inconvenient to have it down and I don't think it's a great idea to drive around with an intake leak. It doesn't seem to have any effect on driveability but I do worry about leaning out the mixture and overheating a valve or something.

I wish I could get some OG copper intake gaskets on short notice.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I had to do it in place I'd put the bus on a hoist, or at least jack up the ass end 2-3 feet in the air so most of the yoga moves could be done from a chair, work smarter, not harder. Wink
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

guatebus wrote:
I wish I could get some OG copper intake gaskets on short notice.


Why do you need to replace yours?

There was a guy in the classifieds with a zillion copper ones.
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guatebus
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BarryL wrote:
There was a guy in the classifieds with a zillion copper ones.


Yes, but I need them, like, tomorrow.
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Harleyelf
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drive to Berkeley for a nice flat place to work on it without being rousted. It's a city tradition to wait a full day before police start asking if the bus is disabled. Not at People's Park, but further north at one of the other big parks.

Pulling the single-port intake with the engine in may involve loosening the fan shroud and lifting it a few inches.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harleyelf wrote:
Drive to Berkeley for a nice flat place to work on it without being rousted. It's a city tradition to wait a full day before police start asking if the bus is disabled. Not at People's Park, but further north at one of the other big parks.

Pulling the single-port intake with the engine in may involve loosening the fan shroud and lifting it a few inches.

When I lived in the Santa Cruz mountains with a sloped, unpaved driveway I drove into town to do my first motor pull. It was my daily driver, and it had a main seal leak. I picked the parking lot behind the liquor store next to the VW shop. The guy working at the liquor store came out on a lunch break and didn't say anything, just ate a sandwich. A friend who had pulled a motor before helped me and showed me how it was done. Good times.

IMO it is more work to do it in the bus, but it is possible.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have done both DP and SP intake gasket replacement with engine installed in my 67 Split.
DP is quite easy.
SP is a little more difficult especially when tightening the 10 mm manifold nuts evenly and not seeing the even crush on the new gaskets. It's easy to have the manifold tightened unevenly and cock the gasket and have leaks. Been there done that.
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Lind
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

also check for multiple intake gaskets. I have seen as many as 3 stacked into a head.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lind wrote:
also check for multiple intake gaskets. I have seen as many as 3 stacked into a head.


That's crazy. What is the recommended torque on the intake nuts? Seems like I read 6ft lbs somewhere but don't catch me lying.
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j.pickens
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It would be really nasty to drop a manifold nut or washer into the intake while trying to do the reach around with the engine installed.

Pull the engine, take your time. Have a magnet on a stick tool handy for removing the loose bits around the intake.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just finished!

I ended up pulling the engine. As usual, most of my time was spent cursing while removing the upper engine mounting bolts.

I pulled two intake gaskets out of each head and replaced them. To tighten the nuts, I got to use the 10mm swivel socket I "borrowed" from work.

I'm glad I pulled the engine because I ended up completely removing the entire intake manifold for clearance and that is definitely a bitch with the engine installed.

I also found and replaced a torn axle boot and replaced my fuel lines with Flennor 5mm 30R7 hose (fits nice!).

After re-installing the engine, I spent a few hours trying to track down a rattling noise. The noise changed when I pressed the clutch pedal, so at first I was screwing around with the clutch adjustment to no avail, which put me in a very foul mood.

The source of the noise turned out to be the pulley tin rubbing on the lower pulley. Embarassed Engaging the clutch moved the pulley a hair and caused the noise to change. I think my end play must be a bit out of spec, but I'm too tired to drop the engine and check/fix it now. Exclamation
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