How do I seal this?

pitdad22 · Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 12:54 pm Post subject: How do I seal this?

Okay serious oil leak...

Previous owner put case savers in with recessed cuts and I had machine ship open the bores up to 90.5's which cut the ring around the recess... Now I'm thinking bad bad idea... Brick wall

Any ideas on how to keep oil from pouring out around the 16 spots where there is not seal. Can I use copper ultra RTV on the cylinder wall where it slides into the case? JB weld around the head stud?

Looking for anything but a new case.

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jfats808 · Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 12:57 pm Post subject:

Put tons of silicone around there. Let it set flat. Then put a fat bead around the cylinders. Then pray.
_________________
2276 IDA's 86C 11-1 DD !
2017 48 Trijet DRLA's W125

mark tucker · Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 1:15 pm Post subject:

you could make incerts that right thickness&od then seal them then use sealer as normal.or epoxie,or silycone.......or a new case.

modok · Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 1:57 pm Post subject:

Oops. Team effort fail.
Get a different case.

Brian71 · Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 2:20 pm Post subject:

Have the sealing faces machined down flush with those recesses, then shim your barrels. Otherwise, buy a new case.

FreeBug · Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 3:23 pm Post subject:

You could try silicon and prayers, if you're willing to start over if it leaks. My concern would be with crankcase pressure.

If it were mine, I might try JB weld/epoxy, and then file it flat with care. Crazier stuff has worked...

Only perfect solution is a new case, but if you pull it off, it could work for years.

fivelugshortaxle · Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 3:27 pm Post subject:

mark tucker · Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 3:48 pm Post subject:

^^^ "short block" Shocked

fivelugshortaxle · Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 4:00 pm Post subject:

bugguy1967 · Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 8:50 am Post subject:

If you machined flat, wouldn't there be an issue with some of the sealing nuts?

Fat ass puffy o-rings?

Either way, I think it's the machinist's fault. That seems so obvious if you've cut a lot of cases.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

74 Thing · Samba Member Joined: September 02, 2004 Posts: 7391

Get it decked.

I had a similar issue and tried the RTV silicone and it leaked eventually.

Do it right the first time and have it machined properly.

pitdad22 · Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 8:37 pm Post subject:

Well I went ahead and RTV'd the cylinders on the slip fit into the case.

So far so good not a drop of oil thanks to the Ultra Copper.

If it leaks a little I'm okay with it as it's in a sand rail so I'll pack a gallon or two of oil with me just in case...

I'll just change the oil filter and strainer basket shortly to pick up any RTV that comes loose since it is full flowed.

I would love to deck it but the cuts are about 3/16" deep and I don't think that would do the case any favors not to mention the stack of spacers required.

If this doesn't hold I think I'll try some 3D printed aluminum inserts into the openings. With some sealant around them.

Thanks for all the help.

Bajaman65 · Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 10:08 pm Post subject:

I always fill it with JB Weld, sand it smooth and use a little RTV like normal and have never had any leaks. It is to late for you but if you have to do it again I would consider it. Good Luck and Have Fun Wink

mark tucker · Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 10:16 pm Post subject:

IF YOU ALWAYS FILL IT WITH JB WELD YOU MIGHT BE IN NEED OF A NEW MACHINEST. Shocked

jfats808 · Posted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 12:10 am Post subject:

Pitdad,
Ok remember that if surfacing the deck flat may also require the cylinders to be shortened because on 2 of the spigots, the webs are in the way. And also with that, it may bring the piston past the cylinder edge. At quick glance, that distance looks near to .250 or just shy. So dependant on the engine combo, this could work with you or against you. See if the machinist is willing to own up to this after you explain all the factors against you now. Suggest you get him to have a welder weld up the edge and have him clean it up after wards. I think this move is the cheapest in the long run.
I have used the JB weld and silicone methods in a pinch, but it appears that this could be on more than one bore? Because the gap is too big, there wont be enough surface for the silicone and jb weld to bond to. So that will just make it break off later or leak Work with the machinist to get it welded and cleaned up.

Edit: hehe I missed your latest post. Guess we are at the pray stage!
_________________
2276 IDA's 86C 11-1 DD !
2017 48 Trijet DRLA's W125


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