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LeftSatisfied
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2010
Posts: 212
Location: Canyon Lake, Ca.
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 Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 11:44 pm Post subject: |
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| I wanted to knock a bunch of stuff out on the bug this weekend, no such luck. I had issues with the rear kick panels first. I may have that solved. Figured that I would throw on the billet running boards tonight. Wouldnt you know it, they dont squeeze between the fenders. Judging by the bolt slots, it seems that my front fenders are both too far back. Not quite sure how that is but it is something that I will have to investigate later. |
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LeftSatisfied
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2010
Posts: 212
Location: Canyon Lake, Ca.
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| Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 11:08 am Post subject: |
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Well, I was able to adjust the front fenders to allow for the running boards. Here is a quick pic of how they look.
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LeftSatisfied
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2010
Posts: 212
Location: Canyon Lake, Ca.
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| Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 10:02 pm Post subject: |
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Mounted the front bumper with the conversion brackets. Brackets were a nightmare just like the rear ones were. Lots of bending and tweaking to get them right. I see a lot of people saying that the early bumpers on a late model look like crap. I have to disagree completely, I like them a lot!
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LeftSatisfied
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2010
Posts: 212
Location: Canyon Lake, Ca.
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| Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 10:09 pm Post subject: |
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My boy and "his" bug. He says he will let me drive it sometimes until he turns 16.
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dirthead O.G.
Samba Member
Joined: June 07, 2007
Posts: 230
Location: SLC
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| Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 10:10 pm Post subject: |
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Looking good. I happen to agree with you on the bumpers! They look good. And who cares what the others say. As long as you like it...go for it!
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73 Standard |
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LeftSatisfied
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2010
Posts: 212
Location: Canyon Lake, Ca.
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| Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 5:04 pm Post subject: |
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| Still finding motivation to finish this bug. I decided to get her running smooth again, suspected the gas had turned. I took apart my carbs and found a lot of crystalization. Did a full rebuild on them using USA made kits. I was about to get under the bug and drain the tank when my floor jack gave up and bled off completely. Time for a new jack! Will follow up later... |
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insane68
Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2013
Posts: 366
Location: Mobile AL
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| Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 5:17 pm Post subject: |
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i put the same blades on my 68, the empi brackets i had no problem with at all, no bending or tweaking of anything, just bolted straight on
and i have to say they do look better than the factory square bumpers lol
_________________
68 bug, 1500 single port
83 Mercedes Benz 300SD Turbo Diesel
87 Pontiac Trans Am (original with 5 speed) |
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LeftSatisfied
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2010
Posts: 212
Location: Canyon Lake, Ca.
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| Posted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 11:04 am Post subject: |
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| Ive been trying to get back into this project for many moons now. I decided to finally clean up the engine bay. Thats when I noticed a lack of engine to body seal and firewall seal. Decided to pull the engine and "spice" everything up a bit. Ofcourse, I have dual carbs and headers so the intakes and headers had to come out first. The tins have been hacked into needing replacement. Tranny bolts are all thats left to drop the engine, now I have to just keep myself from going crazy on the "spice". |
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LeftSatisfied
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2010
Posts: 212
Location: Canyon Lake, Ca.
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| Posted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 9:53 pm Post subject: |
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Just got back from a business trip out of state. Finally got to pull the engine out. I was dreading the top bolt, opposite the starter, after reading about it. Much easier to remove when the po leaves it out! Went very smoothe for my first time, less than 20 mins by myself. Now I can spend hours cleaning, painting and detailing it! I have some tins to replace along with the engine seals and the missing bolt.
Two questions:
1. I found a small amount of oil in my bell housing, rear main seal? If so, what do I need to do to change it?
2. Tarboard is shot, can I use a sound deadener (like dynomat) in its place? |
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moosemeat
Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2009
Posts: 32
Location: MASSACHUSETTS
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| Posted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 6:06 am Post subject: |
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| LeftSatisfied wrote: |
Went shopping again today and picked up most of the equipment that I will need for the audio system. I didn't want to spend too much since bugs are so easy to get into. Heres what I got.
1-Sony Head Unit
1-1000w Kenwood amp
2-6 1/2" Pioneer 3 ways
2-10" Polk Audio DXI subs
I already have a couple 6X9's for the rear and I plan to build a custom box behind the rear seat to house them, the subs and amp. Lately, it seems that my low budget build idea has packed its bags and hit the road laughing. |
Don't forget to get a stiffening capacitor to help save your alternator.....I'd try to place your amplifiers in the front of the car under the hood.
Hey maybe you should try making a fiberglass box for your bug, they look really nice, they are not very hard to fabricate and won't set you back a whole lot of money to build one or two (maybe around $40-$50.) I've built a few of these so far for a few people here. I can give you instructions if you want them?
http://i1025.photobucket.com/albums/y315/vw1974bug...ca4e48.jpg
_________________
Keep on buggin'
Last edited by moosemeat on Mon Sep 09, 2013 6:41 am; edited 4 times in total |
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moosemeat
Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2009
Posts: 32
Location: MASSACHUSETTS
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| Posted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 6:21 am Post subject: |
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| LeftSatisfied wrote: |
Just got back from a business trip out of state. Finally got to pull the engine out. I was dreading the top bolt, opposite the starter, after reading about it. Much easier to remove when the po leaves it out! Went very smoothe for my first time, less than 20 mins by myself. Now I can spend hours cleaning, painting and detailing it! I have some tins to replace along with the engine seals and the missing bolt.
Two questions:
1. I found a small amount of oil in my bell housing, rear main seal? If so, what do I need to do to change it?
2. Tarboard is shot, can I use a sound deadener (like dynomat) in its place? |
1. With your engine out, you'll need to remove your clutch, pressure plate and flywheel first to get to your rear main seal on your engine. mark the pressure plate and flywheel before you take them apart so they end up in the same spot when you put the back together. for re-assembly you'll need a clutch to flywheel aligner tool, could be either made of plastic or wooden like a dowel either way, it shouldn't cost that much
You may need help getting the big 36mm gland nut off your flywheel, if you don't own an impact gun you can use a cheater bar.... unless you have the flywheel lock tool?
For a cheater bar, I use a long piece of heavy gauged angle-iron with two holes in it (one at 2'oclock the other @ 6 o'clock) for the pressure plate bolts to mount it onto the flywheel.
You may also need a 4 ft. piece of pipe (conduit) to place over your 1/2" to 3/4" drive breaker bar?
This works much if you have someone else to hold the engine steady for you.
While your engine is out of your car, check and replace if you have to your transmission mounts and your throw-out bearing.
TARBOARD ISSUE
2. Go down to your local Home depot and go into the roofing section and purchase a roll of Quick roof. It is asphalt based and foil lined, applied exactly the same as Dynamat but at a fraction of the price of Dynamat.
Now the price of Dynamat last time I checked was $10 per square ft. , while Quick roof is $17.00 for a 6" x 25' roll.
_________________
Keep on buggin' |
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LeftSatisfied
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2010
Posts: 212
Location: Canyon Lake, Ca.
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| Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 11:02 pm Post subject: |
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Haven't touched my poor bug in a very long time. I pulled the engine out a year or so ago and stripped it down to the block. Found a broken head bolt. Started to clean the engine and painted the tins. Then it sat, in pieces, on the shelf. Last week, I decided that I was tired of looking at the pieces. I found a VW engine guy, loaded up the parts and dropped it off to him. He replaced the broken stud, finished the cleaning, assembled the engine, tuned it and synced the carbs. Starts on the first crank and sounds beautiful. I am finally finding the motivation to finish my bug!
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LeftSatisfied
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2010
Posts: 212
Location: Canyon Lake, Ca.
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| Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 11:43 pm Post subject: |
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Well, the engine is back in. It was my first time installing a vw engine and it went rather easily. I don't know what all the fuss is about with the upper drivers side bolt, it was pretty simple. I still need to put the intakes and carbs back on as well as wire her up. It's nice to finally be back into finishing the old bug.
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Broke Nut
Samba Member
Joined: December 07, 2014
Posts: 26
Location: Atlanta
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| Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 5:53 pm Post subject: |
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Nice project. I recently got a 72 as well for $800.
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LeftSatisfied
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2010
Posts: 212
Location: Canyon Lake, Ca.
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| Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 11:34 pm Post subject: |
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Put the intake manifolds and carbs back on. What a pain to get the back nuts on the intakes with the carbs still on. Once I started though, I wasn't giving up. Now cleaning up all the wiring with new terminals and shrink tubing.
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LeftSatisfied
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2010
Posts: 212
Location: Canyon Lake, Ca.
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| Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 11:35 pm Post subject: |
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| Broke Nut wrote: |
Nice project. I recently got a 72 as well for $800.
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Good deal. What's your plan with it? |
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Chochobeef
Samba Member
Joined: May 01, 2013
Posts: 811
Location: Ft. Worth, Texas
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| Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 6:52 am Post subject: |
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| LeftSatisfied wrote: |
Put the intake manifolds and carbs back on. What a pain to get the back nuts on the intakes with the carbs still on. Once I started though, I wasn't giving up. Now cleaning up all the wiring with new terminals and shrink tubing.
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Hopefully you will be putting all the rest of the tin and exhaust on? Might be a bit of a pain with the engine in the car.
Looks good though |
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LeftSatisfied
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2010
Posts: 212
Location: Canyon Lake, Ca.
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| Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 8:36 am Post subject: |
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| Chochobeef wrote: |
| LeftSatisfied wrote: |
Put the intake manifolds and carbs back on. What a pain to get the back nuts on the intakes with the carbs still on. Once I started though, I wasn't giving up. Now cleaning up all the wiring with new terminals and shrink tubing.
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Hopefully you will be putting all the rest of the tin and exhaust on? Might be a bit of a pain with the engine in the car.
Looks good though |
Can't install the engine with my headers on, they will hit the apron. I picked up two rear engine tins from Interstate yesterday, one stock and one aftermarket. The PO shredded the original one with what looked to be a chainsaw? Apparently they were having trouble fitting it with the preheat tube flanges. I have a different plan of attack for installing it. Every other tin for the engine is already installed as well as new engine seals. |
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LeftSatisfied
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2010
Posts: 212
Location: Canyon Lake, Ca.
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| Posted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 5:03 pm Post subject: |
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Finished cleaning up the engine wiring (minus a few mystery wires). Happy with the outcome.
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LeftSatisfied
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2010
Posts: 212
Location: Canyon Lake, Ca.
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| Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 11:08 pm Post subject: |
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Hooked up the throttle cable, put on some preheat block offs and installed new fuel line with the filter by the tranny. The rear tins I picked up at the junk yard will not work. The stock one is for an early model, leaving a big gap on the left side of the crank pulley. The aftermarket tin has no cutouts and hits the preheat flanges. I will buy another one tomorrow that should work. Got her off the jack stands, nice to see her proper stance again. She needs a bath...
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