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1954 100mm gas tank, were they wavy or not?
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slow36hp
scott wimberley


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 5:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

never had one to look at personally (yet) but all sides upper and lower yet the top pristine is pretty hard to discount.
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RGD
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruce I guess you have never seen somebody pissed off changing a flat tire .more than the tire comes in contact with the poor old fuel tank after changing a flat in rain snow or hot sun. After a few years those wheel bolts become one with the drum. Imagine some poor bastard on the side of the road not knowing that the bolt wants to be struck with a hammer before it will spin loose . I have witnessed on more then one occasion tired pissed off guys throwing there jack and tools along with there wheel on or at there luggage compartment ,tire on top of the tank trying to slam the hood with the hood prop still up. Most people that owned early beetles for there first 20 years or so used them as daily drivers to and from work cheap little car that saw the elements .There should be a CSI team put together to track every nick and bruise on these old cars! If the dents bother you fix them ,the amount of man hours over analyzing them could be better spent in the garage

Last edited by RGD on Tue Oct 05, 2010 2:53 pm; edited 1 time in total
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BugMan114
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how is the top going to be weaker? when the metal is stretched into shape, that would also mean its a little thinner, so the sides would infact be the weaker point.

And how would pressurizing the tank prove anything? If the waves were caused by vacume, it was over a long period of time, AND the metal is already stretched. do you really expect the metal to just pop into place like nothing ever hppened?

And about the no plugged caps thing, how do we know that the vacume released from these partially plugged caps was enough? maybe when the cap is actually installed, the cap won't vent as effieciently. Someone needs to take a tank, put a partially plugged cap, and a good non plugged cap (a new or NOS cap), and see if you can create a vaccume inside the tank (vacume gun on the fuel outlet at the bottom of the tank). if you can create a vacume, if the vented cap isn't vented enough, you should be able to create a substantial vacume in the tank. and if the cap vent is able to flow air out very easy, this would atleast help to dispell the vacume theroy.
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Why the hell do they call it a gland nut. its obviously a big fat bolt!!!
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 10:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RGD wrote:
... I guess you have never seen somebody pissed off changing a flat tire .

So you're suggesting every remaining tank has had exactly the same physical abuse from a tire change such that the damage is identical on every tank? That's quite a fantasy.
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BugMan114 wrote:
how is the top going to be weaker?

The larger surface area makes it weaker. Why isn't there a tiny hint of warpage on the top, but big warps on the sides?

BugMan114 wrote:
And about the no plugged caps thing, how do we know that the vacume released from these partially plugged caps was enough? maybe when the cap is actually installed, the cap won't vent as effieciently.

Spell it "vacuum" without any "e".
A 25 and 36hp engine consumes fuel so slowly that even the smallest vent will be enough. Any cap you call "partially plugged" won't allow any vacuum to develop.
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Louis
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 2:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

is this a spelling class?
keep it to the topic please...


i can see the carbs cant pull that much vaccum, its just seem odd to have VW pressing such bad tank.

we cant keep arguing.
need a test.. i cant do it because my tank is already wavy.
i tried to plug my air compressor and blow air in it but it never poped back and i have a 7hp at 155psi...
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BugMan114
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

X2. dis ain't no fukin spellin class, ya dig Wink

AND like i said. the top probrobly isn't warping, because its most likely STRONGER, because it hasn't been stretched like the sides. since it has been stretched, the sides are weaker which may be more prone to buckling under vacUUm (are you happy, i spelled it right), or other stresses, like constant fuel sloshing. but again, it just seems unlikely that VW would let such an obvious defect leave the factory that way.

Perhaps temperature change may have had an effect on the tank. the constant thermal expansion over time (cold winter days, hot summer days, morning/ night, etc.) may have also caused the waves you see. this would actuall make more sense, since the sides are thinner, they were the ones to wave. just another thought.
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Why the hell do they call it a gland nut. its obviously a big fat bolt!!!
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BugMan114 wrote:
buckling under vacUUm (are you happy, i spelled it right), .

At least you've learned something today!

The stretching of metal happens everywhere. The top isn't immune from the process. Even if you thought the stretching happened only to the sides, the stretching is a form of forging. And forging makes things stronger. Therefore, one could argue the sides are stronger because they are forged.

Your hot & cold theory doesn't hold. A tank in Northern Norway sees a lot less thermal stress than a tank in Phoenix. Yet they are all warped exactly the same way, regardless of where they came from or their previous thermal stresses.
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tisius
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 3:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mine's wavy as well.
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txoval
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm with Bruce, my 54 has the exact waves in the front of the tank

If there WAS enough vacuum to warp the tank the engine would never freaking run as no gas would be supplied
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Tempie
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 2:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the tire rubbing I think :

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Will leave it as it is...
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 2:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wavy and rubbed, nice! Laughing
I would just scuff it up a bit and then rattle can some black paint over that spot, and call it a day!

I don't think vacuum pressure (if any) could be so strong that it can warp the side of the tank. And even if that was the case, then wouldn't it be odd at the least that all pictured tanks are wavy in the same spots?
I go for VW-factory manufactured waves (hang loose, surf's up! Wink ).
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Last edited by tisius on Mon Jul 27, 2015 2:35 am; edited 1 time in total
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Tempie
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 2:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

this car is going for a full resto Smile
It is too rusty to drive as is.
Its a 3 fold early 55 standard ragtop

Btw,

My standard, is has a lot of imperfections, no nice pressings, half-ass welds, and yes, factory Smile
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 9:12 am    Post subject: Re: 1954 100mm gas tank, were they wavy or not? Reply with quote

What a great thread. I shall revive it with my own March 55 tank.
Clearly wavy on the front and back with about 4 consistent low spots. Other than the pink panther sticker looks like it's never been touched.

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Russ
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 10:14 am    Post subject: Re: 1954 100mm gas tank, were they wavy or not? Reply with quote

well my tank is now about 7 years old and still straight
tend to agree with Bruce that it was stamped that way.
either way it was a good old read again:)

I think I'm just excited to see pre 56 cars popping up, I have a soft spot for them Very Happy
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