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How to lower a Bus and all lowering questions
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

joe56vw wrote:
65Bugsmasher wrote:
I have read, skimmed, scammed, you name it through all 80 pages. When lowering my bus I plan to do the traditional 3.5 inch drop through flipped spindles for the front. For the rear I plan to find a 68 transaxle from a bug, for the long axle/ long spline combination. I know in addition to that I need offset spring plates, ebrake spacer, etc. based off of what has been discussed in this thread. Now here is where my question comes in...

If unable to find a 68 bug transaxle or Type 3, would I be able to use a 68 Ghia transaxle? Is this setup even possible? I searched through this thread but have found no answer or no person using this setup... Confused


my understanding is ghias use the same trannies as bugs do but not sure if the changes were done at the same time as they were to bugs

you really only need the axles and tubes which can be bought new from CB performance


Yes. A 68 Ghia used the same tranny as a 68 beetle. I had that exact setup in my 65 Riviera.

You can also use any full-synchro beetle, ghia or early type 3 swing axle tranny, along with long/long axles and modified (lengthened) axle tubes with modified bus spring plates that do not have to be offset. (that was a long sentence with a shit ton of info)
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65Bugsmasher
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 7:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cdennisg wrote:
joe56vw wrote:
65Bugsmasher wrote:
I have read, skimmed, scammed, you name it through all 80 pages. When lowering my bus I plan to do the traditional 3.5 inch drop through flipped spindles for the front. For the rear I plan to find a 68 transaxle from a bug, for the long axle/ long spline combination. I know in addition to that I need offset spring plates, ebrake spacer, etc. based off of what has been discussed in this thread. Now here is where my question comes in...

If unable to find a 68 bug transaxle or Type 3, would I be able to use a 68 Ghia transaxle? Is this setup even possible? I searched through this thread but have found no answer or no person using this setup... Confused


my understanding is ghias use the same trannies as bugs do but not sure if the changes were done at the same time as they were to bugs

you really only need the axles and tubes which can be bought new from CB performance


Yes. A 68 Ghia used the same tranny as a 68 beetle. I had that exact setup in my 65 Riviera.

You can also use any full-synchro beetle, ghia or early type 3 swing axle tranny, along with long/long axles and modified (lengthened) axle tubes with modified bus spring plates that do not have to be offset. (that was a long sentence with a shit ton of info)


So basically to prevent blurring and clouding of the mind, the easiest way to do it is 68 bug, ghia, or type3 transaxle combined with spring plates, spacers, and so on...

Thanks for the help!
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pondoras box
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I asked this question on my build thread, but no answer, so I am not sure if people didn't see it. I hope it is not an issue to ask here again, where it kind of fits.

I just picked up a 68 transaxle to straight axle my bus and in the process of tearing it down to clean up and reseal I found this. I have not been this far into a trans in a long while and cant remember what the axle tubes are supposed to look like but these seem bent to me. If they are bent they are bent at exactly the same angle on both sides which is what is causing me to second guess myself.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



My question are....
1. are they indeed bent?
2. if yes then are all axle tubes themselves the same length with the only difference being in the length of the end casting itself.

I know the pin can be removed and the end casting pressed off just not sure if any axle tube will work as a replacement.

Thanks!
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Ian
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not supposed to be bent. It's ridiculously common and definitely a reason VW switched to CV axles which are way better.

Some axle tubes for early RGB's are really really thick wall tube. I think all Bug tubes are the same length. Sometimes it can be a PITA to get the end casting off. Heat the crap out of the area around the pin and use an air hammer with the pointy bit in it to try and drive the pin out. If that doesn't work I grind the top flat and drill through the middle of it with a small diameter bit, that releases the tension and you can push them out. Only problem is you'll need to get another pin.

Pushing the tube out of the casting should be self explanatory, but it does require a fairly stout press.
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pondoras box
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply, I was hoping that I was wrong about them being bent. Classifieds here I come!
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Looking for anything from Hal Casey Motors out of Hamburg New York, from license plate surrounds to matchbooks.

1961 23 Window (Bobo)
1965 11 Window (Zelda)
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wrenchnride247
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pondoras box wrote:
Thanks for the reply, I was hoping that I was wrong about them being bent. Classifieds here I come!


http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C24%2D113%2D501%2D066%2DE

New!
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pondoras box
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wrenchnride247 wrote:
pondoras box wrote:
Thanks for the reply, I was hoping that I was wrong about them being bent. Classifieds here I come!


http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C24%2D113%2D501%2D066%2DE

New!


Thanks for the link, just completed the order.
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Looking for anything from Hal Casey Motors out of Hamburg New York, from license plate surrounds to matchbooks.

1961 23 Window (Bobo)
1965 11 Window (Zelda)
1965 13 Window (Lucas)
1957 Oval ragtop
1988 Cabriolet VR6 conversion
Plus a lot of other rusty junk
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Ian
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why would you buy tubes that you will have to modify? All Bug tubes are the same, difference in stock parts is only the end-casting. If you are doing a traditional straight axle setup with cut Bus plates (NOT offsets) then you have to lengthen your tube no matter what.

Buy these and then press your end castings on:

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Scr...ange_high=
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**ACHTUNG DO NOT USE AA BRAND PRODUCTS OR BUY ANYTHING FROM PACIFIC PARTS INTERNATIONAL IN CALIFORNIA**
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wrenchnride247
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ian wrote:
Why would you buy tubes that you will have to modify? All Bug tubes are the same, difference in stock parts is only the end-casting. If you are doing a traditional straight axle setup with cut Bus plates (NOT offsets) then you have to lengthen your tube no matter what.

Buy these and then press your end castings on:

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Scr...ange_high=


He has 68 tubes and these are 68 replacements (easy), no pressing, no cussing, and no chrome buildup on the ends to fight with. Wink
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Culito wrote:
motofly196 wrote:
I think Corey listed the spec's he had on his Riveria in this thread somewhere...but it would probably be faster to PM him about it. Off memory, flipped spindles and straight axle rear. 195 60's rear...can't remember the fronts. I like the look of his bus too, and was shooting for that height with my Kombi...then I realized how crappy that was with my RGB's, and raised my bus back up. Too hard to haul all my swap crap in it with the wheels tucked in the rear. It would of been nice with a straight axle, but I didn't want to take the 63' only RGB's off my trans. Your dog legs should be thin lip....You have more room for bigger tires in the front.


Page one here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=217649&highlight=wheels+suspension

He modified his stock wheels though.
And you're right, thin lip.


Damn, somehow I missed this conversation. I was looking for something else and scrolled through this just now.

Anyway, yes, my 65 had drop spindles up front with a stock beam, and straight axle out back with modded axle tubes and spring plates, and long/long axles with 68 beetle drums w/adapters. The only reason I eventually ran widened rear wheels was so I could fit a 205/65r15 rear tire. It previously ran 195/60R15's all around and worked great, I just liked the extra meat on the back.

This setup was excellent for everyday use. If we had the bus fully loaded with camping gear and two full size adults up front, we would get some tire rubbing over large bumps and/or long sweeping bumpy turns. No big deal.

I drove that bus everywhere. The rear bumper gravel guards were regularly filled with mud and gravel. It had an inch more ground clearance than my wife's Subaru.
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vanBoven
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got a 4" narrowed beam with urethane's. I want to get rid of them, has anyone machined a oillite or bronze bushing or the like to replace the urethane bushings? Pro's? Con's? Just thinking it might work and be less work then building a needle bearing beam.
Thanks, Matt
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jacopotex
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi folks, i have a questions about the straight axle conversion.

i want to lower my bus, and i bought last month a bug straight axle gearbox

if i'm correct i bought a long axle, it's long 120mm, please tell me if i'm wrong

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


So i will fit it on my bus but i don't understand what type of spring plate i must use.

in this forum i found many different solution, like :
adjuster spring plates
offset spring plates
and another, where you can use the original spring plate of the bus witth out the reduction.

so the question is :

when i must use the offset spring plate and when i must use the adjuster spring plates?

if is possible i will use the adjuster spring plates

offset
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adjuster
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like you have a type 3 tranny with long axles and end castings. The offset spring plates will work perfectly. The only reason to use adjustable spring plates is that they make it easier to dial in your ride height. They are not necessary, but they are easier. The same can be done with spring plate/torsion bar indexing, but it takes more time and you have to tear things apart to adjust.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok I've scanned till my eyes have crossed.. basic question, looking at doing an IRS conversion on my 66 split, in general what amount of drop should I expect without the adjustable spring plates, and what will I get with them, I know there are variable so Im just looking for generals...

Thank you!!
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jacopotex
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cdennisg wrote:
Looks like you have a type 3 tranny with long axles and end castings. The offset spring plates will work perfectly. The only reason to use adjustable spring plates is that they make it easier to dial in your ride height. They are not necessary, but they are easier. The same can be done with spring plate/torsion bar indexing, but it takes more time and you have to tear things apart to adjust.


ok, so i think i prefer the adjustable spring plates.

another small question, if i do this conversion i have to change the damper position on the bus frame or should i use the original?
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jacopotex wrote:
cdennisg wrote:
Looks like you have a type 3 tranny with long axles and end castings. The offset spring plates will work perfectly. The only reason to use adjustable spring plates is that they make it easier to dial in your ride height. They are not necessary, but they are easier. The same can be done with spring plate/torsion bar indexing, but it takes more time and you have to tear things apart to adjust.


ok, so i think i prefer the adjustable spring plates.

another small question, if i do this conversion i have to change the damper position on the bus frame or should i use the original?


You should be able to use the original damper mounts on the body.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BATComm1 wrote:
Ok I've scanned till my eyes have crossed.. basic question, looking at doing an IRS conversion on my 66 split, in general what amount of drop should I expect without the adjustable spring plates, and what will I get with them, I know there are variable so Im just looking for generals...

Thank you!!


You can dial in whatever amount of drop you want with or without adjustable spring plates, they just make things more convenient.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2015 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cdennisg wrote:
jacopotex wrote:
cdennisg wrote:
Looks like you have a type 3 tranny with long axles and end castings. The offset spring plates will work perfectly. The only reason to use adjustable spring plates is that they make it easier to dial in your ride height. They are not necessary, but they are easier. The same can be done with spring plate/torsion bar indexing, but it takes more time and you have to tear things apart to adjust.


ok, so i think i prefer the adjustable spring plates.

another small question, if i do this conversion i have to change the damper position on the bus frame or should i use the original?


You should be able to use the original damper mounts on the body.


ok perfect, but i need lowered damper true?
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jacopotex wrote:
cdennisg wrote:
jacopotex wrote:
cdennisg wrote:
Looks like you have a type 3 tranny with long axles and end castings. The offset spring plates will work perfectly. The only reason to use adjustable spring plates is that they make it easier to dial in your ride height. They are not necessary, but they are easier. The same can be done with spring plate/torsion bar indexing, but it takes more time and you have to tear things apart to adjust.


ok, so i think i prefer the adjustable spring plates.

another small question, if i do this conversion i have to change the damper position on the bus frame or should i use the original?


You should be able to use the original damper mounts on the body.


ok perfect, but i need lowered damper true?


Depends on how low you go. If you drop just enough to match a 3 1/2" drop spindle, then you should not need special dampers.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cdennisg wrote:
jacopotex wrote:
cdennisg wrote:
jacopotex wrote:
cdennisg wrote:
Looks like you have a type 3 tranny with long axles and end castings. The offset spring plates will work perfectly. The only reason to use adjustable spring plates is that they make it easier to dial in your ride height. They are not necessary, but they are easier. The same can be done with spring plate/torsion bar indexing, but it takes more time and you have to tear things apart to adjust.


ok, so i think i prefer the adjustable spring plates.

another small question, if i do this conversion i have to change the damper position on the bus frame or should i use the original?


You should be able to use the original damper mounts on the body.


ok perfect, but i need lowered damper true?


Depends on how low you go. If you drop just enough to match a 3 1/2" drop spindle, then you should not need special dampers.


ok perfect thanks so much
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