mondshine Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2006 Posts: 2770 Location: The World's Motor Capital
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Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 7:07 pm Post subject: |
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Remove that rubber washer/grommet to revert to the stock oil screen.
The remaining stud in your photo is longer than the rest of the other sump plate studs. In your photo, you can see the M6 nut which secures the oil pickup (inside the case).
If the threads on that longer stud are still OK, leave it alone. If the threads are stripped, you will need to replace the stud with one of the same length. It takes a little finesse to remove the nut before you remove the stud. It's difficult, but not impossible. You might need to customize (bend) an M10 wrench to accomplish this. Have a small flexible magnet tool handy, and work patiently and carefully.
There are repair studs available if you find it necessary to re-thread the remaining 5 holes in the case. They are usually M8 X M6, so you will need an matching tap to re-thread the case. You can get the tap and maybe the repair studs at a good hardware store:
http://www.germansupply.com/home/image.php?productid=17275
Get the gasket surface, and your re-threaded holes hospital clean, and use Loctite (I like Loctite 620) on the threads to keep the repair studs in place.
If you intend to use the stock stamped steel sump plate, make sure its sealing surface is flat. Often, the sealing surface has been dimpled or distorted from over tightening the sump plate nuts. You can carefully flatten it with a hammer, or buy one of those aftermarket aluminum sump plates.
For gaskets, I prefer the Fel-Pro OS 21625 Kit:
http://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-OS21625-Oil-Pan-Gasket/dp/B000C2EE3K
Over tightening the sump plate nuts is the cause of these sort of problems.
If you do this right, you won't need to over tighten the sump plate nuts for a leak free job.
Good luck, Mondshine |
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