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Kharon8
Samba Member
Joined: March 05, 2011
Posts: 375
Location: Espoo, Finland
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 Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 1:16 pm Post subject: Hood seal & window dropping |
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Hello!
'74 412 4-door sedan is the car and the problems:
1) Missing hood seal. I searched the forum but couldn't find anything related and I even don't know what it looks like, so even a description would help. I have to do something to this as driving in rain leaks water in.
2) Passenger side front door window goes down by itself. The crank is turning so it's easy to stop by taping the crank to door but somehow I've the feeling it's not supposed to do that. 
It started one day I tried to lower the window (new car for me, no idea what is inside the door) and something(tm) broke within the door.
I was looking at the picture of window lift from the part catalog but I couldn't see any brake or locking mechanism in it.
Any ideas on this?
_________________
Kharon -- '62 typ1, '63 typ14, '61 typ21, '65 typ34, '74 412, '75 typ26
FVWA.fi support group. |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21520
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 5:53 pm Post subject: Re: Hood seal & window dropping |
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| Kharon8 wrote: |
Hello!
'74 412 4-door sedan is the car and the problems:
1) Missing hood seal. I searched the forum but couldn't find anything related and I even don't know what it looks like, so even a description would help. I have to do something to this as driving in rain leaks water in.
2) Passenger side front door window goes down by itself. The crank is turning so it's easy to stop by taping the crank to door but somehow I've the feeling it's not supposed to do that.
It started one day I tried to lower the window (new car for me, no idea what is inside the door) and something(tm) broke within the door.
I was looking at the picture of window lift from the part catalog but I couldn't see any brake or locking mechanism in it.
Any ideas on this? |
Yes....and its not fun. The two door sedan doors are "essentially" the same in most respects as the wagon.
The window lift mechanism is largely a long coil spring that engages the teeth on the winder sprocket. It feeds into a plastic tube that is felt lined when the window is up. One of the long term maintenance items to keep from destroying the winder crank teeth....is too remove the lift mechanism and take a soft creamy synthetic grease....I used to use silicone grease but Superlube I have found is best....and feed it into the tube and work the mechanism in and out.
Then pack grease into the winder crank housing through the gap around the winder pin.
Then take a socket of the right diameter and a mallet and peen inward the winder body around the winder handle pin...to take up the slack from wear.
But...what is happening is that in the center of the glass at the bottom, the winder lift mechanism is attached to the glass with a crossbar and bolts. The lift mechanism body is bolted to the inside of the door.
The winder mechanism itself.... only supplies some of the friction to keep the glass up. If the grease is all dry in the take up tube, the winder gear and the splined drive pin that connects to the handle are loose in the housing (see above)....it has less friction
If the bolts are loose on the center lift guide...there is less friction on the nylon guide block in that mechanism.
Lastly....and this is most common....the rearward glass guide channel...which is bolted to the door near the door lock....keeps a good portion of the friction on the window. This part commonly cracks the lower bolt tab and the guide flaps loose....less friction on the glass.
It usually requires taking out, taking apart and some delicate spot welding. Ray |
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Kharon8
Samba Member
Joined: March 05, 2011
Posts: 375
Location: Espoo, Finland
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 5:57 am Post subject: Re: Hood seal & window dropping |
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| raygreenwood wrote: |
Lastly....and this is most common....the rearward glass guide channel...which is bolted to the door near the door lock....keeps a good portion of the friction on the window. This part commonly cracks the lower bolt tab and the guide flaps loose....less friction on the glass.
It usually requires taking out, taking apart and some delicate spot welding. Ray |
Thanks Ray!
This channel guide item is something I was looking for: No way of knowing without asking and I'm so lazy I ask first and take apart afterwards.
I'll do a pictorial report once I get to there.
_________________
Kharon -- '62 typ1, '63 typ14, '61 typ21, '65 typ34, '74 412, '75 typ26
FVWA.fi support group. |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21520
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 9:15 am Post subject: |
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One company you can try for the hood seal...and it will not be an original part ...but this company has been supplying many seals for OEM for close to 100 years. They have a fantastic product line. Their 800+ page catalog is unbelievable I used one of their generic seal materials for my doors.
Also take a look at their wire connector section.....awesome.
https://www.auveco.com/
http://www.auveco.com/OnlineCatalog/index.html catalog
Their weatherstrips start at page 334-335.....but to get a real feel for the depth oof this catalog....start at the front and page your way there!  ....you will be stunned at what you see that you can probably use elsewhere in your car.
On page 335-336....are some of the sponge OEM type weather strips that can be used/modified to work on the doors. http://www.auveco.com/OnlineCatalog/index.html#?page=336
On page 342 starts the window channel seals, glass seals and parts that will be more useful for sealing your trunk
http://www.auveco.com/OnlineCatalog/index.html#?page=342
I have been thinking for some time that one of the seal types on page 336-337 could be slit on one side to slip over the vertical steel lip that the existing trunk seal attaches to. It would not be factory...but would seal perfectly and look professional.....
Part # 4703 on page 336 could work
Or part # 4750 on page 337.
Ray |
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