IRS Transaxle Rebuild

[mcmscott]

[mark tucker]

if you over hone the bore either the gear was/is junk any way or the operator needs to find another job.

[Casting Timmy]

Here is my lathe.

A Montgomery wards lathe from 46 or 47

I got the 113.002 clutch hub machined down on the third side for my early third gear.

Pic with my calipers out of the way

Got third counter bored as well

Here is a picture of them side by side and the besring in place.

Another thing I really like is this duper cheap squeeze bottle from harbor freight and a little brush to cost everything with oil. Probably the longest build in history and I don't want anything to rust

[mark tucker]

I have some expandabloe arbors to hold some of my stuff, I just put the 4th gear on the pinion shaft to machine it a bit for the torrington needle thrust. allways try to hold the strongest portions.a little tweeking hear and there could be an issue. that lathe should do ablut anything you need as well as the horzontle mill can do a lot.(looks like a small one to me) I try to use a 32nd raidi on all my stuff, no sharp corrners. these gears maching surprizing well as hard as they are. the 3rd I cut flats in gave me hell on the teeh, but I got it wooped. I screwed up my back a week ago and cant do shit. I cant get a break to do shit. well I did put the case in the dish washer last night to get another good cleaning so I can do a mock up to see where I am for end play

[Casting Timmy]

My mill is actually badged a craftsman. It was made by atlas though. The lathe really is a Logan. I need to get some expanding arbors or make a few.

[mark tucker]

I bought a set of usa made arbors.....not the best thing I ever did, but I have used them a lot, there just not real well made, you can also make your own. some things you can use aluminum. or get aset off flebay and make aluminum addaptors to fit the odd sizes. not hard at all. I mostly use 6061t5 or t6 for that kinda stuff, nice & hard. and the cheep sets are kinda disposable so you can take a big one and resize to what you need and not realy of "lost any money" altering it.

[Casting Timmy]

I had a good idea I think, I pressed on all the parts without the lock rings installed so I can just measure the gap before starting to work on cutting the clutch hub for the 091 lock rings.

I measured the gap at third as .024", which is more than the .010" for third and fourth. Is it okay to just split this difference and go for .012" on both third and fourth as I cut the hub?

My plan is to install a 091 lock ring and press the hub until it kisses the lock ring. Then I can measure third again and take .012" from that as the correct amount to machine off the hub on that side.

I put two aluminum plates under the thrust washer and slowly pressed everything down.

Then once it bottomed I was able to measure the gap for both gears at third since fourth pushed the hub into position and it had zero clearance.

Hopefully this is the easy way to do this, but I'd really like to know about having .012" gap on both gears. I'm thinking it will be fine, but who like to know for sure.

Thanks
Tim

[Casting Timmy]

I'm still researching about the .012" on my 3rd and 4th gear clearanace, but I did find an interesting thread over on the shop talk forums.

It looks like Bruce2 commented that one well known trans builder says you can go to .012, but I think this was more in relationship to 1st and 2nd.

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=117947

[gears]

Go ahead and shoot for .012" on both 3rd & 4th. I allow a lot more clearance on these than the earlier 113 gears.
_________________
aka Pablo, Geary
9.36 @ 146 in '86 Hot & Sticky
'90 Syncro Westy SVX
'87 Syncro GL 2.5
https://guardtransaxle.com

[[email protected]]

Which 3/4 slider were you going to use that would be able to enguage a 113 syncro cone with a stop washer on 3rd, and an 002 cone without a washer on 4th?

[Bruce]

In that configuration you use the 002 type extended tooth slider. It works with both 113 and 002 type synchro cones. The earlier slider doesn't work with 002 gears.
_________________

[mcmscott]

Also be sure to use the 3-4 rail with the hash mark
_________________
There are no stupid questions, only stupid people,

68 Ghia
67 T-1
65 Notch
02 Mexican beetle
74 Thing
15 Long travel rail
07 Nomad
05 f-250

[Casting Timmy]

Well the first hub is a victim of over machining, so now on to the back up and I think I have the process down now.

I do have the 002 slider from the trans I took apart, but is there a way to double check that? just measure for 26mm wide?

How or where is the hash mark on the 3.4 rail? I am going to have to look at my parts again. Is this the under cut under the head?

[Casting Timmy]

I found out I have 2 different styles of 3-4 shift rails. A shift rail with an undercut head and a line on top and another style with just the undercut head and no line cut on the top.

The one with the line cut on top came out of the 002 style transaxle, but what is the difference between these two shift rails?

I also got the Green Bentley now and really like it for the exploded views showing the 113 style and 002 style mainshafts side by side.

I'm really wondering if the Blue Bentley for the early beetles would help explain some more differences of the sliders and shift rails. It seems like you need all three manuals to do one style of transaxle.

[Bruce]

[mcmscott]

The line on top is the hash mark
_________________
There are no stupid questions, only stupid people,

68 Ghia
67 T-1
65 Notch
02 Mexican beetle
74 Thing
15 Long travel rail
07 Nomad
05 f-250

[Casting Timmy]

Thanks for the replies, really appreciate all the help as I know I couldn't do this without you guys.

I also did some research on Weddle and got the following.

3-4 Slider Hubs

113-311-309M Keyed Slider Hub Modified for use with 1.56 or Lower EB Welded 3rd gear 61-72 T1, 68-71 T2

113-311-309U Keyed 113/002 3-4 Slider Hub Used 61-72 T1, 61-67 T2, 68-71 T2

002-311-309 3-4 Slider Hub (Splined) 73+ T1, 72-75 T2



3-4 Slider

113-311-315.U Early 3-4 Slider, Narrow Grove, No Cutbacks 4.2mm (.165”) Grove when new 61-72 T1, 61-67 T2, 68-71 T2

113-311-315.1 Early 3-4 Slider (Narrow grove slider with all four flanks cut back) 61-72 T1, 61-67 T2, 68-71 T2

113-311-315AU Early 3-4 Slider, Narrow Grove, with Cutbacks, Used 4.2mm (.165”) Grove when new 61-72 T1, 61-67 T2, 68-71 T2

113-311-315CU Late 3-4 Slider, Wide Grove, No Relief for late gears, used 5.3mm (.209”) Grove when new 69+ T1, 68-71 T2

002-311-315U Late VW 113/002 3-4 Slider, Used (Wide Grove, Relieved for Late Style Gears) 5.3mm (.209”) Grove when new 73+ T1, 72-75 T2



1-2 Slider Hub

113-311-243B 113/002 Slider Hub (Uses Shims) 61-68 T1, 61-67 T2 68-75 T2

113-311-243C 113/002 Slider Hub Late Style (Requires no shim and has identification line toward second gear end of hub) 69+ T1, 68-75 T2



1-2 Sliders

113-311-255.U Early 1-2 Slider, 44T W/no lines, Used (for 61-67.5 T1 Trans and mates to 3R1-1744 or 3R2-1744 Reverse Gear) 4.2mm (.165”) Grove when new 61-72 T1, 61-67 T2, 68-71 T2

113-311-255AU Early 1-2 Slider, 43T W/2 Lines, Used 4.2mm (.165”) Grove when new (for 67.5-72.5 T1 or 68-73.5 T2 Trans, mates to 3R1-1743 or 3R2-1743 Reverse Gear)

113-311-255.1 EARLY 1-2 SLIDER, NEW, 44T (MATES TO 3R1-1744 OR 3R2-1744 REVERSE GEAR), CUT BACK ON ALL 4 ENGAGEMENT FLANKS 4.2mm (.165”) Grove when new 61-72 T1, 61-67 T2, 68-71 T2

113-311-255C Late VW 113/002 1-2 Slider (40T for 15T Reverse) 73+ T1, 72-75 T2



Reverse Gears

3R1-1744 EARLY T1 REV. GEAR, 17T, NO LINES, NEW (FITS IN BRASS CRADLE, MATES TO 44T SLIDER) 61-72 T1

3R3-1540 WEDDLE RACING 15T REVERSE GEAR FOR LATE 113/002 (MATES TO 40T SLIDER) 73+ T1, 72-75 T2

3R3-1744 WEDDLE RACING 17T REVERSE GEAR FOR LATE 113/002 (MATES TO 44T SLIDER) 70+ T1, 72-75 T2



Shift Rails

113-311-557AU Early T1 1-2 Shift Rail (No Line) 61-72 T1, 61-67 T2

113-311-557BU Late T1 1-2 Shift Rail (One Line) 73+ T1

113-311-567U Early T1 3-4 Shift Rail (No Line) 61-72 T1, 61-67 T2

311-311-567U Late T1 3-4 Shift Rail (One identification line on head of rail) 73+ T1

113-311-577AU T1 Reverse Shift Rail 61-72 T1, 61-67 T2

[mark tucker]

so use the cornd beef hash taged rails with the big shaft 002 stuff. little things like that are good to know,Im gladd mine is good as the113 I have isant. now If I could just keep track of all this great info....I cant even remember my phone number.

[Casting Timmy]

I know I have to keep looking back at the pages.

[mark tucker]

I have a new 1/2 slider and a new reverse both old nos stuff from a vw dealer that went out up in alalbamer land. I'm wondering if I shoulod use the rev gear or get the weddle gear.I dont do a lot of burn outs in reverse.but it is a good way to re straighten the frame horns .....