Throttle Linkage Comparison- CB Hex Bar, CSP, Berg

[flat4olsen]

I use a Logmech cable system. Works fine and easy to adjust. http://www.dalhems.com/sv/p/6e6bce39dc06412d9b8da05a009d3678/forgasarlankage-IDF

[esde]

The difference between a linkage made for Weber idf and Dellorto drla is extremely small. The factory arms don't swap from one brand to another, but I have taken an aftermarket linkage arm off of an IDF and bolted it to a DRLA with no modification needed. Not saying that this is always the case, just that you don't need to think too hard to make a Weber linkage work on a Dellorto.

[RailBoy]

esde, the nice guy at Cip1 said it just involved a little filing is all on the throttle arms, that is what CSP Rep told him... RB
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[quote="smitty24"]"HELP, I ported my own heads and now have fire coming out my ass" .[/quote]

[mark tucker]

Ive had zero issues with my empi hpmx hex bar linkage that cam with the kit. easy to sync and stays that way.(although I do make alterations to everything so it is like I want it to be) I reckon I have about 12 years on it now.pretty flawless on everything once worked out execpt for 1 intake gadget due to intakes being not bigenough for wedge ports on the std kit. my delux kit has the big beef cb intakes. I have 3 sets of big beef intakes now.and no issues at all.

[RailBoy]

Gotcha Shalimar, thing is ratio wise it looks like a "Twitchy" set-up meaning that the pedal is going to be real senstaive to the linkage to carb ratio as in its action. You must have a good feel for it and gotten use to it. Berg is somewhat the same looking to me as well, thing is, this will be my first "Big" motor and I like to have the modulation feel on my side and like to get use to that so that there is great engine responce feel.

I know I may be over thinking this, but in all opinions are why we are here. At one time there were not that many linkages out there, but now days they are a signture of the owner of the cars in how they "display" there engines as well as how they run...

I do have a complete Hex Bar set-up in the package that came with my DRLAs, it is just that I am not 100% into using it as stated as above. Mean it looks polished off and most likely performs perfectly, it simply is not my style and I am open to change out this item.

Thanks for your input Shalimar, always appreciated for your personal preference on how things work and your knowledge.. Wish you knew more on CSP or do you? lol... RB
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[quote="smitty24"]"HELP, I ported my own heads and now have fire coming out my ass" .[/quote]

[drumbum68]

Check out my bearing adapters for CB linkage.

[58 Plastic Tub]

[RailBoy]

Plastic, it is just the design that I see not going as far long term wise as the others.

Scared, not really, just trying to eleviate as much preventaive maintance as I can for down the road.

Plus my car is for sure not a show car, daily use with rain all getting at the engine and all the normal stuff, fan ducting sucking in dust, the whole shebang...

Yea, my plan is to have some investments on items that last hopefully my life time is all and yet be super performers... RB
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[quote="smitty24"]"HELP, I ported my own heads and now have fire coming out my ass" .[/quote]

[58 Plastic Tub]

It's your call, Railboy.

I'm unsure why you think the Sync Link is for show-cars, and everything else it to use... but I'm just telling you, the only moving parts in a Sync Link are the wheels, and they are what actually HAS to move. There's one extra cable, and no exposed cable outside a housing (unlike every other set-up with an exposed cable outside a housing). There just isn't anything to go out of adjustment, aside from cable stretch, and that has proved to be minimal.

I've not used a Berg, but I've used a LOT of CB hex-bars, and did a Scat push-pull once. I'm using Sync Link now, and I'll never go back.
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Stan Galat
"Everybody is entitled to their own opinions, but not their own facts."

[A E Numan]

I have tried the some of the other's but for my $300 the Synk-Link is the best. Simple, works perfect and looks cool.

[64delux]

Sounds like I am the only person on this forum with a Vintage Speed BEST Linkage.

Cant help though its still in a box ill check in when I get everything finished.

[RailBoy]

Delux, saw the Vintage Speed but don't no anyone with it to hear results. Looks very simular to CSP in how it works and is sealed. Way Cool Looking in Design. RB
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[quote="smitty24"]"HELP, I ported my own heads and now have fire coming out my ass" .[/quote]

[MotoGreg]

That Logmech cable system looks like main throttle cable pulls a wheel which in turn turns two cables, one to each carb. I think that's a better design than the Sync Link.

The problem that I have with my Sync Link is that the secondary cable that opens the right side carb makes that carb hang open if I adjust all the slack out of it. I have the cable housing bowed down to touch the top of the case, as the instructions show, but there is no way to remove all the slack without the right carb not returning fully to closed.

As it is now, I have an auxillary return spring on the right carb, but even with that I have to leave some slack in the cable... so when the gas pedal pulls the left carb open the right carb lags behind. So basically at very small throttle openings it runs rough because the left carb butterflies are just cracked open and the right carb hasn't started to open yet, due to the necessary slack in the cable. Also, at full throttle only the left carb is actually wide open while the right carb is around 95% open. Basically the right carb is always about 5% less open at all throttle positions except for closed (idle).

Not sure what I can do to change this, but I need to do something.

[neil68]

[VWCOOL]

yes I'm a fan of the CB, I have the cast alloy carby base plates

A BIG factor for me is the easy syncing/tuneabilty at very small throttle openings as well as WOT

Also very quick to remove for engine-outs or repairs track-side

Not subject to resonance/movement like units mounted on the fan-housing

However, I did upsize the grub screws to the cross-bar as the originals were too small

[Bret Young]

Another person here for the Sync Link setup. I had one in my bug for 2 years. LOVED it.

I have had CB setups, push/pull center mount linkages and the Sync Link. The Sync Link was by far my favorite.

I am still doing mock-up on my current build, but I have a brand new Sync-Link linkage setup sitting in the box with the rest of my parts. I won't go back to a hex bar setup. Just my 2 cents.

[RailBoy]

I like sealed systems when it comes to outdoor use....

The CSP Set-Up I think is a lot like the Vintage in that it is capped and sealed, and has sealed bearings. The thing is I know that the CSP has sealed bearings in it as in comparison to Skat. Yep, ran the Skat set-up with a set of Kadrons and the Skat is nice, but for the ultimate setup of carbs, DRLAs, I wanted something that will last.. And I am thinking between the Berg and CSP, CSP won..

Thing is when looking at the CSP, it has sealed bearings in it, super nice design and lack of moving parts, I went with it.....

Thing here is personal preference. Thanks for ya'lls time is conversing about it, I may be back to talk more on it, for it takes some modding to work, but I read and heard that if the modding is done right, it is one fine piece of machinery. RB
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[quote="smitty24"]"HELP, I ported my own heads and now have fire coming out my ass" .[/quote]

[jpaull]

[bugguy1967]

Many of my clients use the CSPs. I make sure to lube the ball joints with grease before final installation. A friend in the Powderpuff Series says that some of the racers don't care for CSP bellcrank. They say the joints wear out too quickly. Maybe it's one person's experience that spread among racers, or maybe the constant quick movements of accelerate wear?
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"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[saw2]

One of the CSP bell crank sets I have I was given to me by a friend cause the ball and socket joints were worn and would come unsnapped easily. Even though they never came unsnapped while using them.

I removed the balls from the throttle arms, made new linkage rods and used regular throttle heim joints and connected to throttle arms with a small screw and esna nut. The only reason I made new rods were left and right handed heims in this small of a metric thread were hard to find. Heims in standard thread are easy to find. Even though it makes it more of a hassle to remove rods over snap cap style connector it is a much more fail proof connection and I have not had one problem with this set up.