Gilmore AC Kit for 1978 Super Beetle

[dsliman]

Here is what I did to tighten the belt...

[dsliman]

Connected the Blower and wired the electrical. Used a single "L" bracket to position the blower unit. Installed both below Dash AC vents. Still have to mount the AC switch control unit.

[jl_1303]

Have you measured the temp it blows out of the air it blows out from the vents? Curious to know.

[dsliman]

Have not measured the temp yet. But it does blow cold. I will say since the car is not fully tuned yet, at idle... The compressor kills the engine. So that will be something that the need to be visited but I am just happy it's working at this point and now a little fine tuning is next.

[Cusser]

[Joel]

An idle up solenoid is what you need.

Either raid one from a junkyard car that had a factory one or you can buy aftermarket ones, they come in either electric of vacuum operated.
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Quick little bug, you got a Porsche motor in that?
1974 Germanlook 1303 2.5 Suba-Beetle

[Cusser]

[dsliman]

Thanks - Yes at idle, the compressor will cause the engine to sputter and stop. I do know I have to get the timing readjusted on the engine.. This is a new crate engine and I kept it fuel injected... I did have it timed nicely.. But the after market distributer bracket broke (aftermarket stuff generally is crap BTW), so I pulled the dist. and installed the original bracket... Since then, I just have not been able to get it timed perfectly again... But of recent, have not had time to work on it...

Not sure if the Idle up solenoid would really be applicable to FI engine - assuming the computer (using term loosely) will adjust idle based upon engine performance?

But, will get it timed and see how it goes.. I do know this compressor should not pull that much from the engine... So will assume I still have a little timing work first before I look beyond that.

[wellcraft]

Do you have to pull the engine to install the system?

Also, does this system comes with a heater? I noticed the vent from the doghouse.

[mark tucker]

you can also raise the idle timing so it idles smoother.I would also add at least 1 possiably 2 idlers on the belt.so it dosent flop around witch creates a lot of stress on everything from the exhaust stud to the head studs holding the heads on,and many other things like...crank pully, crank.... remember a belt flop is harmonic and....it all starts waving around in harmony before......snap!crackle! pop!
I plan on having ac on my 356 when it's done(if it ever gets done)and possibly my bug too. I haven't decided on just how I will do it.I have a new sankyo compressor, but.....might go all electrick...or not. still thinken on that.it would be cheep and light that way and I already have a 75 amp alt....hmm it might be a 90 amp cant remember. + ac& refrigeration is what my brother does& I did it for a few years too on cars& home,restraunts.

[Cusser]

All vehicle AC compressors are made for 500-5000 rpm or so, so not much difference there.

Condenser size is important to cool the compressed liquid refrigerant to a gas, so is size of evaporator. And although temperature of the cooled air is quite important, so is that air flow and direction of the flow out the vents (slow fan speeds mean slightly lower temperatures out). And if your VW has sat in the hot southwest sun a few hours your seats, dash, etc. will all be like 160F.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[sjbartnik]

[Junkyardjockey]