"BulliBill's" 1959 Double-Cab restoration...

BulliBill · Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 8:25 am Post subject:

With both vent window rubber seal sets installed in place, we're ready to install the already assembled vent window assemblies. This part is relatively simple and I didn't even take many photos, but you'll figure it out easily enough. Slow down, take a swig, and slowly take your left or right side vent window assembly in hand, smear a little coating of that wonderful slippery goo on the smooth shaft of the vent frame and insert the threaded end slowly into the hole in the rubber seal and carefully wiggle the vent window frame downward.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Be careful not to bang your painted vent frame into the door window frame paint! The slippery goo will help here. Before you push too far, stop to put the metal fixing washer and the phenolic fiber washer on before you pass the shaft thru that angled bracket inside the door, then push it all the way down, add the other washers, tension spring, loch washer and nut. Do not tighten it yet. See my sketch for the proper order of placement...

In the photo, you'll install the hardware in order, left to right, with the first two put on the shaft before it passes through the metal frame bracket, then the rest as seen in my crude sketch. You should have seven pieces of mounting hardware.

Okay, now it's time to attach the top mount of the vent window assembly to the top mount on the frame. I chose to use the rivet and fiber washer kit provided by the great folks at Wolfsburg West. You'll need two small rivets and two small fiber washers. I went to my local hardware store and bought a variety of three ball bearings seen below.

I lined up the top pivot holes, dropped the rivet (head upward) into the pivot mount welded to the main frame, slid the tiny fiber washer in and got the rivet through it, then pushed the rivet down through the pivot mount attached to the vent window assembly. Now it's time to crush the rivet. In the end, I think I only used the larger two of the three ball bearings that I bought for "mushrooming" those hollow rivets into place. Great care is needed here around your paint. I got my Vise Grip pliers and adjusted the opening so that I could crush the ball bearing into the hollow rivet. Since the plier jaws are "toothy" for grip, I didn't want to scratch the head of the rivet up, so I wadded up a few layers of blue paper shop towel and as you can see in the photo below I padded the top of the rivet.

Of the two ball bearings that I did use, I think I started with the 3/16" one. I carefully applied more and more pressure on the Vice Grips and watched the rivet start to mushroom and tighten. Then I removed the pliers and checked the progress. Looking good so far, I have a bit more mushrooming to go, although I can see I have a tiny spot to touch up with paint.

Then I switched to the larger 1/4" one to finish the job up. Still need to go a little tighter below...

Now is the time to adjust the tension on the lower vent window shaft so that when you open them out on the highway, they will stay open, but still allow you to easily close them. Just snug up the lower nut, try out the vent window for tension, tighten a little more, etc. Once you're happy, bent the lock washer tabs down to hold that nut and tension in place.

Now do the other side too!

Yay! Vent windows are now behind me!

Bill Bowman
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

easy e · Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 8:34 am Post subject:

srfndoc · Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 8:48 am Post subject:

^^^ agreed 100%.

You can also use the same rivet setting tool used for the jalousie window rivets to set the vent window rivet. It's a bit of a balancing act as you have to flip the whole window unit upside down and have someone hold it with the top part on a vice and then use the tool to set the rivet.

I did this on my passenger side and it worked great. Definitely a two person event though.
_________________
RPM=(MPH*336* (R&P*4th*1.26))/Tire Diameter in inches

Who.Me? · Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 10:52 am Post subject:

Wonderful description. I may have a crack at putting mine in properly.

BulliBill · Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 11:22 am Post subject:

Thanks guys! Yeah, I really put this assembly process off for a long, long time, and finally I just decided "what the hell, let's get it over with!" MAN! am I glad it's over with! I previously hated vent window assembly (the Safari rubber and borrowed wooden "press" really made that a lot easier, and I especially dislike fitting the finished assembly to the cab door so that it would close properly with a good gap. And looking back, it really wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. Just get everything out in advance, take your sweet time and stay hydrated!

It has taken me so much longer to write out this description for the benefit of others than it took me to do both window assemblies and mount them to the cab doors. This was all finished up a week ago, and I'm still going through photos and writing up the process! I just hope that this review will make the chore easier for others.

Bill Bowman

p.s. I've already bought everything to build my own copy of the wooden press for future re-do's of vent window assemblies on some of my other Splits!
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

BulliBill · Posted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 9:53 pm Post subject:

For me, the vent window was the tougher part of the assembly of the cab window assemblies. The installation of the felt tracks, divider bar, glass, etc. is relatively easy and doesn't need too much explanation. I took just a few shots of the completion of these windows.

Here you see me trial fitting all of the felt channels. Once I was happy with their fit, then I ran a bead of black 3M Super Adhesive on the backside of each strip and pushed them into final position. I then installed both the stationary and sliding cab window glass into the frame, installed the painted divider bar with it's upper barbed fixing clip, and then installed the felt into the bottom painted frame piece. Then I screwed it into place in the main frame and then slipped the painted strip with the notches into place and screwed it down.

Here I trial fit the lower painted bar with the felt glued in before removing it again to mount the glass and divider bar.

I completed the driver frame first and then completed the passenger side assembly. I ran a tap or die through any threaded hole or stud to clean any possible overspray prior to setting these assemblies onto the cab doors.

Bill Bowman
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

aa390392 · Posted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:11 pm Post subject:

Bill, beautiful work...precise on the $, mine are being packaged up and shipped fedex to you. Cool

Its getting there Bill..great job
Thomas
_________________
.
getting grumpy & less tolerant!

55 ragtop
56 delux sedan
56 Kabriolet

BulliBill · Posted: Thu Jul 16, 2015 11:36 am Post subject:

Thanks Tom, but I hate to break the news to you that Fed Ex said they lost your package to me, I hope you insured it heavily! LOL

A week ago I was sitting in the garage late one evening staring at and gloating about the completion of the window assemblies for the DC. I was soooo proud! But I realized that I still had to mount them properly to the cab doors, and in the past I've often had problems getting the assembly to settle down all the way so that the gap was good on top and there was no metal painted frame to body contact. I REALLY HATE this part.

Perhaps it was over-confidence with my success with the vent window glass pressing, etc., but I decided to get the suspense over with. I asked my wife to come down to the garage and help me lift the finished window assemblies into place on the cab doors. The new seal between the window assemblies and the top of the doors was already in place, so after a little "verbal run-thru" of what we were about to do, she grabbed the rear-most post and I held the forward-most two posts and we moved into position to insert the posts into the passenger side cab door. I got her post started by about 1/2 inch and then I slowly and carefully started both forward posts. We slowly and evenly lowered the assembly down until it rested lightly on the top seal. I cut her loose and slowly used both my fingernails...

...and a H.F. plastic pry bar...

...to push and pull the rubber seal every which-way to allow the window assembly to settle fully downward.

After about 20 minutes of careful and deliberate rubber manipulation and a bit of swearing I had the window assembly down and joined to the top of the cab door. I inserted the mounting screws, bolts and nuts and washers and tightened them finger tight.

The moment of truth, would the door close properly without any high spots or paint to paint contact? I held my breath and gently closed to door and watched for any issues. Success! Without any of the previous issues on other Splitties the door closed nicely and had nice gaps all the way around!

What a relief! So while pulling inward on the inner round bead of rubber with fingers and the plastic pry bar so that the bead would not be pinched by the window frame assembly coming further together with the cab door, I further tightened the fastener hardware a little at a time until nice and snug. Once I was totally happy with the fit, I gave them a final snugging with the appropriate tools.

At this point I broke out the outer upside-down "T" weatherstrip and got ready to install it too (this seal goes on the outer surfaces of the window assembly and seals the top of the window assembly to the body). I smeared some of the slippery goo into the painted metal track and started at the rear-most end and fed it up and around the top and then down the forward most side until fully in place. I left a little excess at both ends for now, to be trimmed off later. A quick wipe with a moist microfiber towel cleaned up all of the excess slippery goo. At this point to assist that top seal to slide against the body paint when opening/closing, I shook a little pile of baby powder into the palm of my left hand and using my right index finger, I applied and smeared a thin film of the powder...

...on the inner surface only of the top seal. This made the rubber slide nicely against the paint and allowed much easier opening of the door once closed.

Move to the drivers side door and... repeat the entire process!

Door slightly open...

Door fully closed...

On both doors, the inner round bead had to be cut and at the bend it overlapped, so I carefully used a fresh razor blade to cut out about 1/2" of the round beading to have them lay together as if they were joined. You can barely see the cut line in the photo.

I was so happy to have this chore done, and surprised that both sides went so well! Now I'm inspired to go back to my other Buses and get them straightened out too.

Bill Bowman
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

hitest · Posted: Thu Jul 16, 2015 3:03 pm Post subject:

Looking great sir! There's just something about a slider that glides smoothly back and forth- without the up/down sloppiness of worn felts!

Your restored window life mission: Always squeeze your latches- never allowing them to scrape unassisted! Cool

_________________

aa390392 · Posted: Sat Jul 18, 2015 3:28 pm Post subject:

Bill, looks right out of the factory! Great job, it must of been your helpers knowledge, or LOL her nervousness. ....whats next. Mirrors?
Thomas
_________________
.
getting grumpy & less tolerant!

55 ragtop
56 delux sedan
56 Kabriolet

BulliBill · Posted: Sat Jul 18, 2015 8:11 pm Post subject:

I hate to admit that Kathryn was a lot calmer than "nervous-Nellie" me while sliding those widow assemblies onto the cab door. She's a great assistant when I've needed a 3rd and 4th hand with something. Our spouses/significant others are often our best supporters, and I'm grateful for mine!

For the most part, it has been my goal to try re-build my own vintage vehicle "mostly" by myself in my garage, well as much as possible. But it's nice to get a helping hand and/or fresh advice now and then too!

My 22 page inventory list of individual parts/accessories is getting close to having everything checked off as "installed"!

Bill
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

BarryL · Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 9:03 am Post subject:

BulliBill · Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 5:02 pm Post subject:

Yeah, that's still on my "to get fixed" list. I'm just delighted that everything else electrical is working just fine! If you have the skills and desire and want to open up, tweak and fix my original relay can for me, I'd be happy and grateful to let you give it a try. I don't have that expertise, but perhaps you do. You're right though, if that little speedo turn signal warning light doesn't work, it'll eventually drive me crazy (plus I'll be driving around everywhere not knowing my blinkers are still on!

Bill
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

BarryL · Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 6:52 pm Post subject:

So that's a "call" with no "raise"?

I was hoping to see you pry back that lip and see instantly what was wrong. Ok, I'm out of blue chips so send it to me. I'll PM.

Oh, kickass work so far, btw, but a couple pliers were touching and a wrench was out of line on the rag on the bench in a pic a few back. That really bothers me.

BulliBill · Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 10:34 am Post subject:

These photos are for my buddy "BarryL" (okay, you too!), he likes my photos of organized stuff for the DC. Mmmmmm, yummy parts goodness! To be installed soon!

Bill Bowman
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

BulliBill · Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 9:07 pm Post subject:

I have a question about the generator "polarizing" process...

I have a "thin-slot" Bosch LJ/REF/160/6/2500 L21 six volt factory "exchange" generator that hasn't been used since it was rebuilt by the VW factory for the exchange motor program back in the early 60's. It obviously needs to be polarized before use (very soon!).

My 1959 Factory workshop Service manual basically says the following about the "polarizing" process:

About the wires coming out of the generator case, "The thicker cable from the generator comes from the positive brush and must be connected to the "D+" terminal of the voltage regulator. The thinner cable comes from the field coils and must be connected to the terminal "DF" at the bottom of the voltage regulator".

I understand that you disconnect the voltage regulator from the wires coming out of the generator. So you have the generator either strapped down on the generator stand with the regulator completely disconnected from the generator wires, or you can do this with just the generator itself on a workbench. You'll need a few jumper wires and of course an appropriate 6 or 12 volt automotive battery for the generator you have.

The manual goes on to say about the "polarizing" process: "Cable "DF" of the generator needs to be connected to ground (D-), the positive battery terminal connected to terminal (D+), and the negative battery terminal connected to ground (D-)".

Ignore the circled A for ammeter (illustration for testing the generator, but similar for the polarizing process)...

"D-" can be the ground screw on the generator case or a ground on the crankcase. The generator needs to hooked up and spun as a motor for just a second or two to "polarize" it.

Okay, my question is related to the fact that I have one wire (the thinner one from the field coils) coming out of one hole in my "L21" generator case, and TWO wires coming out of the other hole (one thicker wire from the positive brush and one unknown thin wire) and both of those are attached together to terminal #61 below the voltage regulator.

one thinner wire on the left... and two (one thick and one thin) wires on the right...

close up of the two on the right...

in this shot you can see the ground screw, and the end of the Bosch generator part number "L21" on the generator case...

I guess my question is: When "polarizing", do I treat the two wires as one and keep them connected together for the polarizing hook ups? I really don't want to damage this virtually new factory rebuilt generator. while "polarizing" or when we fire up this engine!

HELP! Thanks for any advice from our electrical geniuses out there! And can anyone else out there with an "L21" six volt generator confirm that you also have two wires coming out of the generator to the voltage regulators #61 terminal as in my photos? Thanks gang!

Bill Bowman
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

67ghiaTIV · Samba Member Joined: January 18, 2004 Posts: 97

Incredible attention to detail Bill. Just Wow!!!!
I pulled my door glass apart 2 years ago and need to reassemble it when I get my 65 DC home. You bet I'll be going through all you posts. Thanks for all the hard work and examples of how to do things right.
Awesome!!!

Jamie

BulliBill · Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 8:36 am Post subject:

Thanks Jaime! I'm delighted that you can put some of my babble to good use on your old Bus.

I was recently checking on my "to do" list and saw an item that I wanted to take apart and fix. I remember reading in my 1959 VW Workshop service manual about the instructions for using a putty sealant while assembling the components of the front "bullet" turn signal assemblies. So I quickly dis-assembled my turn signals and broke out some plumbing putty. I got some from my home supplies on-hand (or you can pick it up at your local H.D.) and rolled out a goob of it into a string. In the photo below my string of putty was still a little too thick, but I rolled it out a little more until it was about 1mm in diameter.

There is a great cut-away drawing in your Bentley manual showing where in the turn signal assembly you should use the sealant to keep moisture from entering and eventually causing havoc. The instructions say to roll a 1mm diameter string of putty and shows you where to lay it between the lens and the outer metal shell before assembly. It was very easy to do, and as you pressed the lens into place to line up the outer screws, the putty easily squished in to shape to seal up that area from the ingress of moisture.

Once you have everything all re-assembled you can use your fingernail to clean off any excess putty that squeezes out onto the exterior of the turn signal assembly for a nice, clean, SEALED look. The shot below was taken before I used both my fingernail and a micro screwdriver to gently remove the visible creamy-colored putty...

Rain while driving or the occasional car washing won't be an issue for these assemblies anymore. One more little thing checked off my "assembly to-do" list!

Bill
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

ThorBus · Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 1:23 pm Post subject:

Awesome Progress Bill!

Guess we need a Missourimicros engine install and fire night really soon.

I'm down! Let us know!

Seeya.
Ted.

BulliBill · Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 6:56 pm Post subject:

Nice photo Ted! Was that at Kents'???

You're too late!!!!

The engine is in as of 6pm this evening! So far so good...

Wooooo Freakin' Hoooooo!

Bill Bowman
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!


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"BulliBill's" 1959 Double-Cab restoration...
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