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Mountain Minstrel Samba Member
Joined: September 03, 2009 Posts: 979 Location: Sonora, CA
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Posted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 12:03 am Post subject: What sealant to use on the rear backing plate |
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Ok, I searched and didn't find anything. Bentley says to use sealant when putting the backing plate on but gives no other details. What should I use? _________________ Ken
69 Westy
99 S-10
04 Miata (Sold)
Desertbusman wrote: |
Maintenance doesn't mean repairing it when it breaks. That's called repair. |
miniman82 wrote: |
Don't listen to him, people from Fresno are retarded. |
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Hoody Samba Member
Joined: November 28, 2007 Posts: 1948
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Posted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 1:46 am Post subject: |
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Colin.... Ray...? |
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Desertbusman Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2005 Posts: 14655 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 6:18 am Post subject: |
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About anything would work. It's not that critical or specific like many other sealed item are. _________________ 71 Superbug
71 Westy |
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aeromech Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 16971 Location: San Diego, California
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Posted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 8:10 am Post subject: |
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I'm guessing some kind of gasket maker sealant. There are several available at the flaps. _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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atmellovw Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2006 Posts: 1652 Location: Minnesota
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Posted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 8:39 am Post subject: |
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I used Permatex Form-a-Gasket non-hardening pliable sealant. _________________ 1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex |
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VWDog Samba Member
Joined: June 24, 2005 Posts: 617 Location: Ladysmith, BC
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Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 12:43 pm Post subject: |
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I am doing this job right now on my 70 SC. I have bead blasted and am painting the backing plate to keep the rust at bay.
With my OCD kicking in I started to wonder if paint is good thing or not on the backing plate/carrier mating surfaces or should I just leave them bare and use sealant around the centre and something like never-seize on the adjuster and cylinder area? I don't know if the sealant might react with the paint(or some such thing) and perhaps lead to this work being done for not. Also, is Ultra Black sealant a good one to use?
I want to keep this truck for a long time and I would like to do it "right" as opposed to just trying to get it back on the road. I do appreciate the high level of skill folks have here and I am sure the "to paint or not to paint" question has gone thru others' minds. Thanks for the input! _________________
1970 Lotus White Single Cab 2015- , 1979 Sage Green 2014-2015, 1978 Dakota Beige Westy 2012-2015, 1978 Neptune Blue Riviera 2012-2017 , 1970 Neptune Blue Bus 2010-2012, 1970 Deluxe Savannah Beige 2010-2012, 1985 Iltis 2010- , 1962 Single Cab 2010-2013, 1975 Brasilia? Bay/Split Kombi from Brazil 2008-2011, 1985 DoKa 1999-2009, 1971 Bus 1999-2000, 1968 Double Cab 1991-1998, 1965 Ghia 1987-1991, 1970 Westfalia-bought by Mum and Dad in 1970, sold by me in 1993 why-oh-why :_(
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scrivyscriv Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011 Posts: 2922 Location: Memphis
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Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 12:47 pm Post subject: |
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Any good catalyzed paint will be fine with sealant applied to it. Rattle can paint is another story _________________ Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help. |
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VWDog Samba Member
Joined: June 24, 2005 Posts: 617 Location: Ladysmith, BC
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Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 1:16 pm Post subject: |
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scrivyscriv wrote: |
Rattle can paint is another story |
And that is what I am using. So maybe paint the backside after it is together?
Was VW just getting cheap by 1970 and didn't paint, or did they find painting to be unnecessary? Maybe they never painted the backing plates and carriers? _________________
1970 Lotus White Single Cab 2015- , 1979 Sage Green 2014-2015, 1978 Dakota Beige Westy 2012-2015, 1978 Neptune Blue Riviera 2012-2017 , 1970 Neptune Blue Bus 2010-2012, 1970 Deluxe Savannah Beige 2010-2012, 1985 Iltis 2010- , 1962 Single Cab 2010-2013, 1975 Brasilia? Bay/Split Kombi from Brazil 2008-2011, 1985 DoKa 1999-2009, 1971 Bus 1999-2000, 1968 Double Cab 1991-1998, 1965 Ghia 1987-1991, 1970 Westfalia-bought by Mum and Dad in 1970, sold by me in 1993 why-oh-why :_(
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scrivyscriv Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011 Posts: 2922 Location: Memphis
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Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 1:22 pm Post subject: |
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I can't suggest using rattle can paint on brake parts. Brake fluid WILL get on it and melt the paint. I know you want to "do it right" the first time so if you don't have access to a paint spraying setup, you might consider getting it powdercoated. Small parts like the backing plate shouldn't be more than $10-15 to get sandblasted and powdercoated, and you'll be good to go for the long run. Might even be cheaper since you already sandblasted it. _________________ Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help. |
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wcfvw69 Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004 Posts: 13389 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 1:54 pm Post subject: |
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Another option is going to your local auto body paint supply. They can mix up some quality, enamel paint and put it in a rattle can for around $20 bucks. _________________ Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc
Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.
**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**
Last edited by wcfvw69 on Thu Aug 13, 2015 1:54 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Brian Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012 Posts: 8340 Location: Oceanside
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VWDog Samba Member
Joined: June 24, 2005 Posts: 617 Location: Ladysmith, BC
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Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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Okay, thanks! I guess it is another nail in the coffin for rattle can use. I have been increasingly unhappy with the over-time performance of r-c paint, so I might just have to take the plunge into a "proper" paint set up. _________________
1970 Lotus White Single Cab 2015- , 1979 Sage Green 2014-2015, 1978 Dakota Beige Westy 2012-2015, 1978 Neptune Blue Riviera 2012-2017 , 1970 Neptune Blue Bus 2010-2012, 1970 Deluxe Savannah Beige 2010-2012, 1985 Iltis 2010- , 1962 Single Cab 2010-2013, 1975 Brasilia? Bay/Split Kombi from Brazil 2008-2011, 1985 DoKa 1999-2009, 1971 Bus 1999-2000, 1968 Double Cab 1991-1998, 1965 Ghia 1987-1991, 1970 Westfalia-bought by Mum and Dad in 1970, sold by me in 1993 why-oh-why :_(
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VWDog Samba Member
Joined: June 24, 2005 Posts: 617 Location: Ladysmith, BC
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Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 2:04 pm Post subject: |
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wcfvw69 wrote: |
Another option is going to your local auto body paint supply. They can mix up some quality, enamel paint and put it in a rattle can for around $20 bucks. |
That would be a good option. Is the paint bought there significantly better quality? Is it catalyzed in the can and if so, does it have a shelf life? _________________
1970 Lotus White Single Cab 2015- , 1979 Sage Green 2014-2015, 1978 Dakota Beige Westy 2012-2015, 1978 Neptune Blue Riviera 2012-2017 , 1970 Neptune Blue Bus 2010-2012, 1970 Deluxe Savannah Beige 2010-2012, 1985 Iltis 2010- , 1962 Single Cab 2010-2013, 1975 Brasilia? Bay/Split Kombi from Brazil 2008-2011, 1985 DoKa 1999-2009, 1971 Bus 1999-2000, 1968 Double Cab 1991-1998, 1965 Ghia 1987-1991, 1970 Westfalia-bought by Mum and Dad in 1970, sold by me in 1993 why-oh-why :_(
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airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 12729 Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 2:06 pm Post subject: |
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VWDog wrote: |
Okay, thanks! I guess it is another nail in the coffin for rattle can use. I have been increasingly unhappy with the over-time performance of r-c paint, so I might just have to take the plunge into a "proper" paint set up. |
What brand were you unhappy with? I spit in the general direction of Dupli-Color quality, but the Rust-Oleum Engine Enamel is a really nice paint for the price. It's solvent resistant, and good up to 500*. It's the cleanest-lying paint I've used yet. _________________ Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 21520 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 2:23 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry for the delay....work intervened. It also took me a few replies to realize it was rake backing plates.
As for rattle can paints......for brake and steering knuckle parts I have found thd VHT branded caliper and engine paints in rattle can to be as good....and most times better than any other product I have used for suspension parts.....but you must follow the directions to the tee.
clean religiously, start with a light incomplete coat, follow with a more complete coat after 10 minutes but less than 1 hour. Finish with a full medium wet coat. Let cure overnight or longer......then the parts must be baked at 200F for one hour. About 250F for 2 hours is better.
The VHT caliper paints....will come right off with brake fluid....until you bake them. Then they are bulletproof.
They also have a really superb fan spray nozzle. I use a paint can grip and they spray as well as a touch up gun. Shake well.
As far as sealant.......typically if your surfaces are very well painted.....no bare edges....and bolts are painted......put silicone around the edges of the bolts...and a very thin, even layer everywhere else ....but let it dry before mating the parts. You are making a gasket....not sealing a valve cover. Different methods.
You can use any of the Permatex Ultra as they can stand 500-550F constant with peaks to a little over 600.
I have recently found some specialized RTVs that work to 750F and higher. I dont know if you want to know the prices. Ray |
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VWDog Samba Member
Joined: June 24, 2005 Posts: 617 Location: Ladysmith, BC
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Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 2:32 pm Post subject: |
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asiab3 wrote: |
What brand were you unhappy with? I spit in the general direction of Dupli-Color quality, but the Rust-Oleum Engine Enamel is a really nice paint for the price. It's solvent resistant, and good up to 500*. It's the cleanest-lying paint I've used yet. |
I have been using PlastiKote by Valspar. The engine enamel has the same characteristics as you mention for the Rust-Oleum. For the most part it hasn't been too bad, in fact my friend decided he would go ahead and paint his engine tin when he saw the results I got….and he is fussy! However, over time my when fan shroud has gotten dusty it has become harder to clean. I would have thought the surface to be smoother than that, but it seems like time has caused it to become ever so slightly rougher. And it isn't because I just used one coat. I consider three coats almost a minimum. Maybe I am just imagining things or being too picky, neither of which I would put by myself. _________________
1970 Lotus White Single Cab 2015- , 1979 Sage Green 2014-2015, 1978 Dakota Beige Westy 2012-2015, 1978 Neptune Blue Riviera 2012-2017 , 1970 Neptune Blue Bus 2010-2012, 1970 Deluxe Savannah Beige 2010-2012, 1985 Iltis 2010- , 1962 Single Cab 2010-2013, 1975 Brasilia? Bay/Split Kombi from Brazil 2008-2011, 1985 DoKa 1999-2009, 1971 Bus 1999-2000, 1968 Double Cab 1991-1998, 1965 Ghia 1987-1991, 1970 Westfalia-bought by Mum and Dad in 1970, sold by me in 1993 why-oh-why :_(
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VWDog Samba Member
Joined: June 24, 2005 Posts: 617 Location: Ladysmith, BC
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Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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raygreenwood wrote: |
Sorry for the delay....work intervened. It also took me a few replies to realize it was rake backing plates.
As for rattle can paints......for brake and steering knuckle parts I have found thd VHT branded caliper and engine paints in rattle can to be as good....and most times better than any other product I have used for suspension parts.....but you must follow the directions to the tee.
clean religiously, start with a light incomplete coat, follow with a more complete coat after 10 minutes but less than 1 hour. Finish with a full medium wet coat. Let cure overnight or longer......then the parts must be baked at 200F for one hour. About 250F for 2 hours is better.
The VHT caliper paints....will come right off with brake fluid....until you bake them. Then they are bulletproof.
They also have a really superb fan spray nozzle. I use a paint can grip and they spray as well as a touch up gun. Shake well.
As far as sealant.......typically if your surfaces are very well painted.....no bare edges....and bolts are painted......put silicone around the edges of the bolts...and a very thin, even layer everywhere else ....but let it dry before mating the parts. You are making a gasket....not sealing a valve cover. Different methods.
You can use any of the Permatex Ultra as they can stand 500-550F constant with peaks to a little over 600.
I have recently found some specialized RTVs that work to 750F and higher. I dont know if you want to know the prices. Ray |
That sounds like cool paint Ray. I can see what you mean by following the directions to a tee. But the results sound worth it. I did look at similar paint at my local Lordco auto store, but thought that sounded like I would be going overboard. After what you say, I guess I was wrong and should have gone for it. There was no mention of primer on the can I was looking at, nor do you make any mention of primer. Am I to assume this high heat bake paint doesn't need any?
The RTV Ultra Black says to assemble wet but don't torque the bolts until later. I understand the making a gasket part, I just don't see how I could get the surface even enough to end up with a good seal if I were to wait on assembly before mating the parts. Aren't you bound to end up having spaces trapped in there as the parts go together. Again, maybe I am just over thinking things. _________________
1970 Lotus White Single Cab 2015- , 1979 Sage Green 2014-2015, 1978 Dakota Beige Westy 2012-2015, 1978 Neptune Blue Riviera 2012-2017 , 1970 Neptune Blue Bus 2010-2012, 1970 Deluxe Savannah Beige 2010-2012, 1985 Iltis 2010- , 1962 Single Cab 2010-2013, 1975 Brasilia? Bay/Split Kombi from Brazil 2008-2011, 1985 DoKa 1999-2009, 1971 Bus 1999-2000, 1968 Double Cab 1991-1998, 1965 Ghia 1987-1991, 1970 Westfalia-bought by Mum and Dad in 1970, sold by me in 1993 why-oh-why :_(
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Brian Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012 Posts: 8340 Location: Oceanside
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Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 3:52 pm Post subject: |
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Slap a little bit to make a gasket, then wait. Torque them down, then paint on the rest with your finger? _________________ Wash your hands
'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper
Only losers litter |
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Joey Samba Member
Joined: August 12, 2005 Posts: 5366 Location: Nova Scotia - Canada
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Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 6:00 pm Post subject: |
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I just replaced the backing plates on my '79 and I used seam sealer. _________________ Joey
‘60 Kombi - '74 Bus - '79 Panel - '65 Beetle |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 7:31 pm Post subject: Rear Axle Assembling |
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Tcash wrote: |
Note all the areas in red are sandwiched together by the big nut #9 Torqued to 35 mkg (253 ft lbs). That holds the assembly together.
The only thing that keeps the complete assembly from moving in/out is #18 the Lockring (snap ring, C-clip) in the back.
Make sure #15 is in there, #9 is torqued to 35 mkp and #18 is securely in place.
The Lockring in this pic is #23
thanks to jerseylooker
Good Luck
Tcash |
Last edited by Tcash on Wed Apr 20, 2016 4:15 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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