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Multi69s
Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 5364
Location: Lefty, CA
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 Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 4:33 pm Post subject: Re-torquing Heads |
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My main VW history has been with a Type 1 (since late 70s). Every time that I built an engine, I would retorque the heads at around 500 miles. This meant dropping the engine, and pulling off the tin. I have never seen one of my engines develop a head leak, and it seemed that the deck of the case experienced less pounding.
I am somewhat new to the Type 4 world. I just had to get my heads rebuilt due to a dropped seat (Thanks Adrian), and I want to get the best longevity from this engine. So is retorquing the heads a common practice for the T4 engine? It is definitely a lot more work compared to a T1, but if that is the SOP, then I will deal with it.
Thanks
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Danwvw
Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2012
Posts: 8892
Location: Oregon Coast
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 4:39 pm Post subject: |
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I can't see why a type 4 would be immune from needing it's heads re-torqued!
But it's intresting to see just how much my type 1 build loosened up during testing. I think it's a good Idea, Consider test running the engine out of the car then going in and re-torquing!
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths! |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21519
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 7:21 pm Post subject: |
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Different material set. While there may be some percentage of benefit....its small. The type 4 is aluminum vs magnesium.
Lap the cylinders in and omit the head gaskets as per the VW tech bulletin, make sure the cylinder studs are tight in the case, use proper forged washers and some loctite, torque the studs properly, turn the engine over a bit and fheck torque one more timebefore the loctite dries. Thats all that is needed.
You can also use metric schnoor washers is you really feel the need. But unless the cylinder studs are new....and you are expecting, stretch.....on type, 4 its not, necessary. Ray |
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