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New Sand Rail Project. Engine help needed!
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crowew
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 12:14 pm    Post subject: New Sand Rail Project. Engine help needed! Reply with quote

/Bought a sand rail from a local for 750, frame is nice, driveline is pretty good, all seems to be in okayish condition except for wiring and the engine, which was locked up.

The cylinders are 1700cc (well... 88mm diameter) cylinders, so i'm looking to replace them, since they were a little rusty inside and ungodly gummed up.

I've measured the outer diameter of the cylinders at the bottom to be 90mm and the outer diameter of the cylinders at the top to be 93.8mm. (wall thickness at the top averages about 3mm, and about 1mm at the bottom) Does anyone know if these are machine in or slip fit cylinders then?

The machine-in cylinders are listed with over 5mm wall thickness, so i dont think they're machine-in, but i want to make sure before i order the wrong parts (which i already did once when i ordered 1835cc pistons and cylinders because i took the previous owner's word to their size instead of measuring them myself... whoops haha).

Any help would be sincerely appreciated and i'll be sure to get some pictures up later!!
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crowew
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got emailed back by Texas Air Cooled today. They gave me the diameters of the head side of each piston.

Slip - 93.9mm
Machine - 97.8mm

Unfortunately they were out of stock of them so i couldn't order from them, so i had to order directly from AA (hate asking for information from one person then buying from another...).

I have the slip-on type (unfortunately... but i guess i'll just put an oil cooler on it and hope that'll keep it from overheating/warping).

I'll update this thread with pictures and goings-on later.
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crowew
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Onto the next problem!
It seems that my cylinders are stuck to the crank case. Tomorrow I guess I'll try using the heat gun on them to see if that'll help loosen them up. Any other ideas to get them to come out?
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

crowew wrote:
Onto the next problem!
It seems that my cylinders are stuck to the crank case. Tomorrow I guess I'll try using the heat gun on them to see if that'll help loosen them up. Any other ideas to get them to come out?


Light or heavy taps with plastic or rubber mallet to break "seal" of cylinder to crankcase... Dont break fins if you may reuse pistons and cylinders...

Dale
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crowew
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 12:18 pm    Post subject: Bringing this back from the dead Reply with quote

So progress since forever ago when I last updated this:

I've replaced all of the cylinders, rings, and wrist pins, replaced a few other components on the engine here and there (condenser... plugs and wires) and have gotten it mounted and running alright. I have a few issues remaining though.

First: My idle is pretty rough and dies if i dont keep it running via throttle. I've got to play with a few things before i narrow it down enough for a legit question, but any general guidance is appreciated.

Secondly: I have a really odd brake problem. I was going through the brakes and checking the brakes and replacing whatever needed it (read: a lot), and I was bleeding the brakes when the pedal just went to the floor and has stayed there. Pumping it up does nothing, and i cannot think of what could be wrong enough to keep the piston in the MC all the way at the bottom. Any help? I've even gotten to the point where I pulled off a brake line, reservoir, and brake sensor to see if any of that would help/hurt. (yea I know i'll have to entirely re-bleed everything). Anyone have any idea?

If it helps this happened directly after replacing the rear driver's side wheel cylinder and brake shoes. [/img]
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crowew
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have no idea if this'll work or not, but here's an embedded video of it running if anyone is interested in seeing it.


Link



Link



Driving it was before the master failed on me.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may have defective MC right out of box, or its not bench bleed properly (full of air) or return spring in MC is missing or plunger is jammed and or pedal return spring is missing....

You need to go over you setting for carbs and ignition again, nothing should be loose...

Dale
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see a fan shroud, but no cooling tin on the cylinders. Save your cylinders and heads Instal the cooling tin before you run that engine for more than a couple minutes at a time. Heads will likely crack if you run it much more than that because they will not expand uniformly. The center will be cool, but the outer edges will get very hot very quickly. That builds up a lot of stress in the aluminum. Too much stress and the head will relieve some of the stress by cracking.

crowew wrote:


Link

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crowew
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll definitely be going over the carb and ignition settings. I've gotten more tins on now than I did in this initial startup. So far only the tops and the bottoms are on, i'll try to buy the rest of the tins as time allows.

The company I purchased the mc from is sending me a new one today, so hopefully I get the braking problem squared away and can finish my brakes.

I have brakes fully functioning in 1 wheel right now (Front P side) and barely on the front D side and rear P side, but have now replaced the wheel cylinder and shoes on the rear D side. So i should get at least some braking in all of the wheels. I'm hoping that I can "break loose" all of the brakes through use and bleeding to make them all work well.

Thanks for your all's help.
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crowew
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the new MC hooked up and bled properly, it works fine, but I can't bleed the rear brakes now. I'm thinking that the rear hydraulic lines are damaged (they look original). I've ordered new ones and hopefully that fixes it.

Exhaust comes in tomorrow (Just a stinger with a baffle so hopefully that'll make it just a little quieter). And I'll be sticking that on immediately and running it to see how my newly 2000cc engine sounds muffled.
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Bashr52
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 4:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you replace the rubber/flexible brake lines? These tend to swell shut over time and do not work anymore.
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crowew
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've ordered replacement flex hoses. They'll be in next tuesday and I'll replace them when they're in.
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crowew
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2015 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got everything pretty much working!
Here's a video of the thing rolling:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pABePYRRySw

In the video, it's running on 2 cylinders (carb got clogged as soon as I went to drive it at all), but is now fixed. Haven't had a chance to make another video.

I've also installed a light bar on the front of it. I need to replace the brake shoes all around, though.
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