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65 vert door will not close / latch
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67Vw2387
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 5:37 pm    Post subject: 65 vert door will not close / latch Reply with quote

**** I'm having an issue with the driver's door not closing AT ALL . I have adjusted the striker plate but don't think it's the striker plate . The passenger arm on door ( part that goes into the door striker ) when pressed down by hand , locks down . The drivers door arm will not lock down , I got it to lock down once but it locked down , way down in like the in the 6 o'clock position ....looked through the threads and Bentley but didn't find anything , any help greatly appreciated
thanks
j

Hi
looking at a 1965 Ghia , trying to figure out if the motor is possibly original to car ....I know without the warranty card or birth cert i won't know but it's a " low milage car " and trying to figure out if the org motor is in it ....want to be sure i'm reading the engine codes correctly on here .
here is what i have :
engine # 9667989
below that # has the "vw " and letter " D "
which would be 1965 only correct ?
thank you
j

" 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 1961-65 1200cc 34bhp DIN, 40HP SAE (“VW D” added below serial after 9247364)
D0, D1 1966-1985 1200cc 34bhp DIN, 40HP SAE For Mexican made 1200s after 1977. "


Last edited by 67Vw2387 on Tue Sep 01, 2015 6:32 pm; edited 4 times in total
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OLD VW NUT
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A closeup photo would help. It sounds like a 40hp motor. AFAIK there were no 65 only 40hp motors. They were built from 61-65 for the US market only - and went to the 'F' motor for 66 which was the 1300 motor.
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67Vw2387
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i guess i just read :
5 series is 61'
6 series is 62'
7 series is 63'
8 series is 64'
and 9 series being 1965
also the " D " stamp reads after serial # 9247364....i have 9667989 with the "VW D"
below it
and yes i am familiar with the 66 and later motors as i have many and are easy to code
thanks
j
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OLD VW NUT
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The way I read that is it could be any year between 61-65 - maybe I'm reading it wrong.

Other than the stale air vs fresh air 40hp which is external to the motor there are few differences between the years. I do recall the long vs short stud on the heads for the rocker arm mounting studs. The shorter ones are the better versions IIRC. The longer studs required valve lash of .012" IIRC. And my recall is slowly fading!
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67Vw2387
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you for your reply , certainly could be
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gregson1
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 7:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That engine number prefixed by a '9' (and the D) tells me with good certainty that the engine is from '65 because that's exactly what I'm working with for an engine rebuild for a March '65 built car right now. Without seeing a picture of yours, it's impossible to say if that engine is a re-stamp. If the engine in you car is original, it won't have cam bearings, but will have square boss heads. Easy to pop a valve cover to verify the heads.

I had RIMCO machine mine for cam bearings when they line bored the case and hope to see some better oil pressure as a result. I'm using the original crank, flywheel and heads for this build, along with a Mahle 83mm big bore kit. Not completely original, should give it a little extra grunt. Even if the case is original to the car, you might still find some surprises inside someday.

On a side note, I've seen quite a few recent birth certificates issued without engine numbers.
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KGCoupe
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gregson1 wrote:
That engine number prefixed by a '9' (and the D) tells me with good certainty that the engine is from '65 because that's exactly what I'm working with for an engine rebuild for a March '65 built car right now. Without seeing a picture of yours, it's impossible to say if that engine is a re-stamp. If the engine in you car is original, it won't have cam bearings, but will have square boss heads. Easy to pop a valve cover to verify the heads.

I had RIMCO machine mine for cam bearings when they line bored the case and hope to see some better oil pressure as a result. I'm using the original crank, flywheel and heads for this build, along with a Mahle 83mm big bore kit. Not completely original, should give it a little extra grunt. Even if the case is original to the car, you might still find some surprises inside someday.

On a side note, I've seen quite a few recent birth certificates issued without engine numbers.

Apparently for "security reasons" (or some such excuse), the VW museum will no longer voluntarily provide the original engine number with the Birth Certificates.
However if you provide the museum with both the VIN and the engine number when you submit your request for a Birth Certificate, they will tell you if that combination matches what their records indicate was originally shipped.
... or at least they will do so IF their records for that particular VIN are complete, and unfortunately that is not always the case.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

KGCoupe wrote:

Apparently for "security reasons" (or some such excuse), the VW museum will no longer voluntarily provide the original engine number with the Birth Certificates.


Nope it's to stop people fraudulently claiming they have an original engine by filing off the old engine number and re-stamping it to match the birth certificate.
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KGCoupe
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John Moxon wrote:
KGCoupe wrote:

Apparently for "security reasons" (or some such excuse), the VW museum will no longer voluntarily provide the original engine number with the Birth Certificates.


Nope it's to stop people fraudulently claiming they have an original engine by filing off the old engine number and re-stamping it to match the birth certificate.

That actually makes a lot of sense.

By doing it that way, the museum is helping to secure the authenticity of the stamped engine number ... so technically the "security reasons" excuse that was stuck in my memory for some reason is correct. Smile

Wink
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67Vw2387
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for the replies guys , going to pick it up tomorrow , hopefully it's all he says it is .....i'm due for a good one lol
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well I made the 14 hr trek and it's now back in CT.....thank you for the replies , I will post some pics soon .
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67Vw2387
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

motor # pic
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67Vw2387
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

any way to ID a top if it is original ?
posted a photo of the rear window on the 65' vert


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even if the top canvas is original, that doesn't necessarily mean that the clear vinyl window is still the original one.
A previous owner may have had a replacement window sewn in if the old one had cracked or yellowed, which in my experience with convertible tops always happens if the clear vinyl is exposed to UV light and temperature extremes (i.e. if the car is driven in a climate where outside temps drop below freezing, or the car sits outside and the rear window is exposed to sunlight for extended periods of time).

Perhaps a better way to judge wether or not a top is original would be to try and see if the wood bows are still the actual wood ones, of if they have been replaced with more modern synthetic "wood" bows.
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sjbartnik
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also Regalite is an Eastman Chemical brand, not sure if that would have been an OEM supplier to VW; I would expect some German conglomerate but who knows.
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67Vw2387
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks guys , figured it was a quick and easy start and could be an obvious clue to being an aftermarket top ....I'll dig a little more and take some more pics , just trying to figure out just how org this car is besides the crappy respray
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2015 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm having an issue with the driver's door not closing AT ALL . I have adjusted the striker plate but don't think it's the striker plate . The passenger arm on door ( part that goes into the door striker ) when pressed down by hand , locks down . The drivers door arm will not lock down , I got it to lock down once but it locked down , way down in like the in the 6 o'clock position ....looked through the threads and Bentley but didn't find anything , any help greatly appreciated
thanks
j
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