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Phoebe - After 10+ years the Resto begins!
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kiwighia68
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2015 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sputnick60 wrote:
Don't forget to add a drain hole.
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Nicholas


I was wondering about that. It certainly makes sense. The water has nowhere to go. And as Angus says, the replacement panels should have had them stamped in.

Just one more thing to do, and then POR15 to seal the metal.
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sputnick60
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2015 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found on my '66 this is original but I've often seen where the hole gets filled after a smash and then becomes the cause of rust in that part of the car. The Dansk panels just don't have the slot. Probably a cost saving thing.

Nicholas
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Angus Dowrie
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2015 3:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So after lots of checking gallery photos, and in particular some shots from Rome and Sputnick (thank you!) - Barry has started work on the wheel well. The couple of cars locally to look at were no good as references, they were no longer original here after crash/rust damage.

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Fabbed up the corner supports, central rear panel installed. The rubber seals need to be slipped in before the floor of the wheel well is installed.

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And here from the under side.
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noexit
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Angus Dowrie wrote:
Kevin Ferguson at Trimtec in WA sent some photos through of some of the interior. Sea blue car with contrast blue-white roof. Looks nice!
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That looks lighter than original, at least compared with my Sea Blue/Blue white ghia. Is that by choice, or is that the closest match you could find?

There aren't many of us Sea Blue/Blue owners out there.
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Angus Dowrie
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

noexit wrote:


That looks lighter than original, at least compared with my Sea Blue/Blue white ghia. Is that by choice, or is that the closest match you could find?

There aren't many of us Sea Blue/Blue owners out there.


Hi, yes it is a blue white like the original. Its the nearest match that could be found. Kev was searching everywhere and sending over little sample pieces. I'm very happy with the look of it, the texture is identical but colour is slightly lighter.

Do you have some pics of yours to share? There aren't many ghias of any colour in Australia.
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noexit
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Angus Dowrie wrote:
noexit wrote:


That looks lighter than original, at least compared with my Sea Blue/Blue white ghia. Is that by choice, or is that the closest match you could find?

There aren't many of us Sea Blue/Blue owners out there.


Hi, yes it is a blue white like the original. Its the nearest match that could be found. Kev was searching everywhere and sending over little sample pieces. I'm very happy with the look of it, the texture is identical but colour is slightly lighter.

Do you have some pics of yours to share? There aren't many ghias of any colour in Australia.


Can't see much, but there are a few places where you see the Sea Blue paint, like on the ash tray. Most everything else has been primered black or grey. Not a good shot of the ice blue upholstery either. Bad camera, bad lighting.

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Angus Dowrie
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 3:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can see enough of it though!
That upholstery looks the same as the original sample Kevin was using, the one I've used is the closest one in a material that Kevin knows holds it's colour.
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Angus Dowrie
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the CSP disc brake kit fitted to my car. Has taken a while, wrong one was sent at first. This is the zero offset kit, nice bit of engineering.

Trial fitted the BRMs to make sure no interference with calipers etc. Has studs, so may convert the standard rear drums to studs as well to have the same arrangement front and back.

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Angus Dowrie
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 3:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After finally getting the rubbers for between the inner fenders and the nose, the lower wheel well section could be welded in. Almost ready to have a nose back on Phoebe.

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VeeDubWolf
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 8:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good! Are the head-light buckets yet to be installed though?
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Angus Dowrie
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VeeDubWolf wrote:
Looking good! Are the head-light buckets yet to be installed though?


Yes Barry is doing all these fiddly parts while he can flip the nose over and get easy access. The headlight buckets and the common repair around the headlights will be done when the nose is back on the car to ensure correct alignment of the headlights. Don't want Phoebe to look cross-eyed!
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VeeDubWolf
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah! That makes sense. Progressing nicely! Cool
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Angus Dowrie
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2015 3:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something I've been a bit worried about is the linkage assembly for my Riechert carb kit - I didn't have one!

But with some help from another sambanista, all is OK. Udo has helped me purchase the linkage from Germany, much appreciated.

One of the air filters.

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I've also got some oil bath air filters, just have to see which fits in better with the deck lid springs. Shaft, springs linkage rods etc all there as well.
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Angus Dowrie
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 2:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Front clip about to go on! Phoebe will look whole again soon.

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Check fitment of clip

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Headlight sections

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Will probably use the bonnet from the donor car, as this one is bowed from the front-ender Phoebe had at some stage.
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Mellow Yellow 74
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 4:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The headlight sections I bought came with a flange along the bottom as though it would be welded against a seam somehow - did you just cut these off?

Also are there any tricks to getting the alignment of the headlight sections correct or do you just do them so they are straight and plumb?
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Angus Dowrie
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 5:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mellow Yellow 74 wrote:
The headlight sections I bought came with a flange along the bottom as though it would be welded against a seam somehow - did you just cut these off?

Also are there any tricks to getting the alignment of the headlight sections correct or do you just do them so they are straight and plumb?


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Here are the sections as they arrived. I got these through Jerry Heldt at KG company of Oz.

Not sure why the flange is there, I think it is just trimmed off and butt welded to the adjacent sections. I am not doing the bodywork myself, Barry Thompson at Southport is. I'll ask him about any particular tricks when I'm down next. I think the headlight sections are just sitting there at the moment, not welded in. The buckets have been removed. He's very meticulous, he'll be double checking everything before welding.
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Angus Dowrie
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After a bit of a delay getting the other hood blasted, and waiting for the front clip support rubber spacers, final fitting of the hood and clip could happen.

Here is the other hood fitted, much better than the one shown a few posts above.
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There has been some more adjusting since these pics were taken, should be welded out tomorrow.
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Angus Dowrie
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 1:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Front end is tacked in place. Phoebe is in one piece again!

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Evil_Fiz
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 5:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WOOHOO, YAAAYYY, UHHUH! Dancing Applause
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 8:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you're very brave! I'd be measuring & re-measuring for hours doing this, always paranoid that one side was higher than the other. Well done Smile
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