Cutting rear seat back covers for safety catch

Abouna

I'm getting ready to attach my covers from TMI and don't want to screw up cutting the holes for the safety catches on either side. The one on the right should just be a hole, correct? And the one on the left seems to need something bigger for the squarish piece that the strap attaches to. Searched forever here couldn't find anything.

So how do I cut this without the cuts spreading in the future? I'm stumped, and afraid!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I did get the bottom of the seat covered today. I'm satisfied for a first attempt, as I didn't manage to screw it up.

Maddel · Samba Member Joined: February 12, 2013 Posts: 935

1971 1302.
The cover was never removed before.
It seems they even ripped the cover at the factory to make it fit ... Shocked

old DKP driver · Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2015 9:51 pm Post subject: TMI COVERS

If it were me I would contact TMI and let them know the problem.

I feel it should have been sewn at the company.

BTW.... the bottom looks awesome.
_________________
V.W.owner since 1967

Tim Donahoe · Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2015 10:45 pm Post subject:

Basically, since people stretch the covers at a different tautness, a manufacturer might have an issue with pre-cutting the holes for the safety catches. This is especially evident because some people use different kinds of foam, different thicknesses, more than one layer. Some people use no foam, at all: they use horsehair pads (like me). So, the holes for the latch ends should probably be left to the installer--after he's done all the stretching, hooking, and (with the seat bottoms) tying the strings.

I've found that if you cut too small, you can at least get the latch ends, sticking out of the cover. then cut some more to make a better fit. Just be easy with the blade--and use a new razor.

I also found that TMI's vinyl seat covers do not continue to rip, once a hole has been made. They must cross thread under the vinyl, or something.

So, just do the best you can and realize that it won't look absolutely perfect. But the area is pretty much hidden after latching the seat, so minor flaws are no big deal.

My only mistake in cutting was that I cut a bit too much on one of the front seats at a bracket which needed to stick through the material. But the outboard seat cover plate hid the small mistake quite well--and the cut did not continue to enlarge due to use.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

Maddel · Samba Member Joined: February 12, 2013 Posts: 935

Just forgot to mention...
It may be a good idea to remove the safety catches before putting the new cover on.
After fitting it cut the holes accordingly and reinstall the "latching mechanism".

TMI Products · Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 7:44 am Post subject:

Abouna · Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 1:26 pm Post subject:

Thanks everyone for the advice, and thanks TMI for chiming in. I'll give it a shot and report back.

Abouna · Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 7:05 pm Post subject:

We got the upper seat back on this afternoon. It went okay, but we made a couple goofs.

First off, we referred to this series of pics from Sewfine. Very helpful. http://www.sewfineproducts.com/rear-seat-installation/

To locate the cutouts for the safety catches we placed the cover on the frame, centered it up, then clamped the wire (in the cover channel) at the bottom to the frame, and hooked the top edge through the center hook only. Then we stretched the cover down over the sides to where we thought the cover would look nice, and be a little taught, and marked the location of the latch on either side with fine pen. Then we removed the cover and cut round holes (thanks Mario) for the latches with an Xacto knife. 3/8" holes for the right side, and a 1" hole for the left where the strap bracket it. It worked pretty well. They ended up fairly close to the right locations. We inserted the strap bracket first when reinstalling the cover so as to not stress the material.

After we stretched the bottom edge around where the wheel well is, we hammered the points down. But we forgot that the side needs to stretch over these points too. Afraid that if we tried to pry them up they would break (we broke several removing the old covers) we opted to simply install a couple panel screws to hold the sides flaps down at the bottom. Not exactly a very visible area. Being our first attempt here, we're happy to eat a little humble pie and settled for this fix. The next one will be better.

TX-73 · Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 9:19 am Post subject:

Very helpful for my upcoming seat-cover work, thanks.
_________________
My 1973 Standard Beetle Build SOLD
Click to view image

TMI Products · Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 9:26 am Post subject:

Looks great!
_________________
Mario De Leon
1965 Turbo Mustang Fastback
1966 Type 3 Fastback
VW Division Sales Manager
[email protected]

TMI Products
1493 Bentley Dr.
Corona Ca, 92879
1-800-624-7960
951-272-1584 FAX

bygfysh65 · Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 4:06 pm Post subject:

Would like to see the rest, looks great

bygfysh65 · Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 4:06 pm Post subject:

Would like to see the rest, looks great

bygfysh65 · Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 4:06 pm Post subject:

Would like to see the rest, looks great

iowegian · Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 4:19 pm Post subject:

Tim Donahoe · Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 8:01 pm Post subject:

I got both sides of my upper rear seat's material on all the barbs, and I still had a little-teeny bit of material that wasn't quite flush. So I got some (I think its Loctite Brand) vinyl glue (you have to get the vinyl stuff) and carefully applied some glue to the offending area. Then you tape it shut with good masking tape for a few hours--and it lays down perfectly.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien


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