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Engine break in
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planenut
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2015 3:11 pm    Post subject: Engine break in Reply with quote

Hey guys, I've just got my '66 on the road. It has a 1600, and when I finished it, I looked for break in instructions. I don't recall anyone saying to use non-detergent oil for break in. I have around 200 miles on my engine. At first I used Valvoline straight 30 wt. After the initial 100 mile oil change, my VW shop advised that was the wrong oil, and I should use the Valvoline VR1 because of the zinc content. I have around 200 miles now, and it still smokes when I start it. I don't remember that being normal for even a VW. I know it doesn't have valve seals, but is this to be expected? Or, what did I do wrong?
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2015 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not your question, but is your engine lid vented? It should be for a 1600cc engine, or use hood standoffs or something similar.
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planenut
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 2:33 pm    Post subject: Engine Break In Reply with quote

Cusser, my deck lid isn't vented, but I do carry tennis balls, in case. I did have initial temps up to 235, but all is better with new cooler seals. I'm just puzzled at the smoke on start up. valves and guides were nice and tight, and the cylinders were rehoned at assembly. Oh, and I do have a look out for a vert lid.
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slalombuggy
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IF you can find someone who has one, get a leak down tester. It's a gauge that pumps air into the cylinder and tests how much is leaking out. That will tell you if it's your rings or valves

Could be that your rings haven't seated yet and now that you switched to synthetic oil, they probably won't. I never switch to synthetics till over 500 miles it's too slippery and won't let rings break in properly. You can try switching to regular oil and add a zinc additive and see if that helps. I had a 1600 in a 57 with a stock lid and never had problems overheating. Look elsewhere for your overheating problem.

brad
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rockerarm
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi. This topic is very touchy with many folks here. You will find brand loyalty is important to people. I hope this post doesn't get locked due to its main interest in motor oil but here goes. Gene Berg was a big time supporter of the non-det Valvoline. I used it and still have some. This is old school and possibly not followed much any more. I prefer the diesel rated oils for my mild engines. I can get a straight weight 30 for a few thousand miles, but changed a few times, then transition to the diesel multi grade. These oils are dual rated (diesel and gas engines) and used by many fleets. Simple and inexpensive.
Bill
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rings need to seal on a new engine.

Yes you want oil with lots of zinc to help the lifters and cam break in.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even with rings worn in, you can get oil smoke due to engine tilted to one side in uneven parking spot.

Just in case, what color smoke are you seeing??

White = water vapor which is normal in cooler weather at start up.

Bluish white = oil.

Black = too rich with fuel.
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably going to need new cylinders and rings, I would go ahead and take it back to the people that rebuilt the engine sounds like the cylinder hone job or the new rings did not seat in right, I have found this to always be the case with do it yourself hone jobs and re-using old piston and cylinders.
The ZDDP is not for the pistons and rings and cylinders, it won't matter, it's for your lifters and cam. Yeah, VR-1 would be fine so would the oil you used too, Just add 1/4 bottle Lucus brake in oil additive with ZDDP.
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planenut
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys. It does sound like the rings aren't seated yet.
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Kjell Roar
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cylinders want various rpms when break-in. Driving with same rpm for longer time, is no good. It will glaze the cylinders.
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planenut
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 4:00 pm    Post subject: Engine break in Reply with quote

Seems like my cylinders must've finally broke in. I haven't seen smoke the last 5 or 6 times I've started it. Strange. I've always broken engines in on non-detergent oil.
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Aussiebug
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 2:59 am    Post subject: Re: Engine break in Reply with quote

planenut wrote:
Seems like my cylinders must've finally broke in. I haven't seen smoke the last 5 or 6 times I've started it. Strange. I've always broken engines in on non-detergent oil.

Never use non-detergent oil in a bug engine. ALL the owners manuals say " use HD oil". That means "high detergent", not "heavy duty" as some think. Old terminology and all that....
Most modern engine oils are detergent oils, so you would have to look hard to find the inappropriate non-detergent oils these days.
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