My Van Bandit

[greebly]

In order to re install the AC vents the front distribution box and sun visors have to come down. I noticed that the driver's side visor attachment point was cracked, so I had my son epoxy the crack, he then cut out a paper template , scored the piece, soaked the paper with epoxy and applied it to reinforce the attachment flange. Hopefully good for another 25 years.

[greebly]

Got around to wiring in my alarm /lock/unlock siren for my remote entry system. If you listen carefully on the video you can hear the neighborhood dogs going nuts. I should have made the video longer. The siren is just to the side and behind the passenger headlight.

Link

[greebly]

Finished the last of the sound system installation, using the existing speaker connector under the rear bench to tie in the custom two way crossover box I made. so lower frequencies are diverted to the lower woofers and upper frequencies to the new 4" coaxials in the OEM location in the AC evaporator panel overhead. I made a custom kick panel for the rear seat, I did not want to cut the original. I used 7/16" MDF, cut two pieces and bonded them together , then finished the exterior facing with laminate and the completed assembly is close to the original panel thickness. The interior side was finished with adhesive backed pebble grained vinyl. Earlier I stated that I planned on installing 6" woofers in the kick panel, but that was not possible, the bar of the metal frame of the seat does not provide enough clearance, so I matched the front woofers using 5.25" woofers which just clears the bar.

[greebly]

some small things.
My son , the artist drew Bandit and had a custom sticker made up for me.

Mandatory fire extinguisher.

Center console

[greebly]

After replacing the radiator, coolant pipes and new hoses I flushed the system at least 4 times, once with a vinegar mixture, the old coolant was dexcool and was red. The new coolant I used is green. I was still seeing evidence of the red scum so I installed a metal fuel filter inline to the reservoir and ran at least 300 miles. The coolant is so clean it is hard to determine level on it now it's so clean. Here is what back flowed out of the filter when I removed it.

[greebly]

Installed the H.U.D. ( Heads Up Display) that I was gifted for Christmas by my loving and lovely wife. It displays RPM, Speed , water temp, odometer, voltage, and fuel consumption.

[greebly]

Working on taming the sliding door. The first video is prior to doing anything except rebuild the sliding hinge and replacing all the bearings on the hinge and on the door. You can hear the squeal of the bottom bearing before any grease is added to the lower rail. In the second video grease has been added just at the point that the lower bearing is forced sideways and the squeal is eliminated, the bearings and grooved roller are now the focal point of noise, and just before the door is closed you can hear the slap of the bearings as they hit the end of the rail and curve in the stop. The third video is after putting UHHV tape on the roller rail, along the upper door outside surface where the upper bearing rides and on both rails (inner and outer) that the hinge bearings ride. I also added a custom rubber stop on the end of the hinge rail to buffer the bearings and eliminate the slapping sound they made just before the door closes. Finally I put a piece of UHHV tape on the body of the roller hinge where the hooked door open hatch contacts the hinge as it is opening and closing.

Link


In this video the lower bearing has been greased, listen to bearing slap just before door closes.

Link


Final video where UHHV tape has been applied to roller rail and all the upper bearing tracks. Bumper stop added.

Link


Here are some pictures of the prototype bumper stop I had made. I tried unsuccessfully to find this no longer available part. I plan on making some changes to future stops on the retaining slot section.

This is a picture of the area I applied the UHHV tap to where the rear hook latch drags on the hinge. It eliminated a squeal.

[greebly]

Replaced the fuel tank and associated parts over the past couple of days. The old grommets were toast, and the tank would leak profusely on fill-ups. The bottom part of the grommets were gone, disintegrated in the tank. As were the vent rollover valve grommets. The filler grommet was surprisingly in excellent shape still supple, I replaced it anyway, along with a new crossover tube and a new fuel sender.
Pushing the crossover tube fittings into new tank grommets is a miserable job. I per-inserted the left side because I have AC hoses impeding access. even so I needed to push Bandit off the ramps, lift the front right and remove the passenger tire to be able to have enough leverage to get the fitting on that side in. I used soap on the grommet to ease insertion but it was still a miserable job. I filed the rough underside edges of the fuel sender tabs and also rounded the corners adding a slight bend to aid in ramping the fuel sender on. Thanks to other posters who recommended doing this. I used a strong magnet in a plastic bag dropped into the tank to capture the filings. It was easy to retrieve. Wire brushed the brackets and painted them for good measure.

One down, one to go.

[Vanhalla]

Tell us more about the HUD, how did you hook that up?
_________________
1991 VW Vanagon GL

https://www.instagram.com/bjornthebus/

Parts wanted/needed - A high top. CLK wheels. A weekender rear cabinet and head banger.

[greebly]

It simply plugs into the OBDII connector and you set up the multipliers for the various fields like speed and the tach. Please note that I have a VW 1.8T engine and therefore an OBDII diagnostic port. This would not work for the WBX, but would function for the Subaru and Zertec conversions with an OBDII port.

[greebly]

Installed new Battery cable and battery disconnect switch today. PO had a universal battery clamp and the battery cable was wicking oxidization. I decided to install a quick disconnect switch as an anti-theft device and safety feature while working on the van. I acquired it from All Electronics on a closeout sale. With the amplified sub-woofer it is tight fit.
Original post clamp and old battery cable.

Hydraulic crimper. All of the crimp lugs were closed end to prevent moisture intrusion and heat shrink with adhesive was used to seal the back end.

Disconnect switch

New positive post clamp.

Cable stripper for large Gauge cable, made by Quick cable

The end result, the switch and sub-woofer level control.

[goffoz]

I like this idea, and the layout.
I've often wondered about disconnecting the + pole, do You have dual batteries? how does this work?
Is this a start battery only?
what happens to your accessories?

I have a ground interrupt on my fuel pump, everything else remains powered.

[greebly]

I have only one battery, accessories are shut off with the switch. A small fuse could be installed across the switch to allow power to radio memory and power which would blow if cranking was attempted while the switch was off. I did not do that though. One of the next projects in the queque is to update the digital cluster clock with a bright display and lithium button cell battery backup.

[greebly]

Installed the SA splash guards, I was unable to use the supplied clips up front as i was getting contact with the two upper clips with the 215/75/15 tires when turning. So i just screwed them down. Seems like a better mounting method anyway.
Setting up my travel necessities. I have a mobile toolbox I carry for long trips which has a complete set of tools, this stuff is in addition to it and I carry these all the time.
Picked up some Jumper cables from Northern Tool I like that they are self contained in their own case, 4 gauge 16" long with LED lights on the ends of the clamps to see at night. I gallon emergency gas container with a pour valve. small floor jack in a toolbox carrier. I had a plastic 18" tool box and the jack fit perfectly after I trimmed the interior bolsters on one side a small amount. Air compressor, spare radiator hoses and Power steering hose. The box has an unopened can of fix a flat. Do not normally use it other than riding mowers and such, but it may prove useful. Finally a couple of flashlights, 50ft of rope, a tarp, and some electrical tape courtesy of H.F. All free I think.

In the back I have spare lug nuts for my steel spare, lug wrench, an emergency Pancho If I find myself in Mexico unexpectedly , Bungee cords, Stop leak, an extra long cigarette lighter extension cord, battery terminals and hose repair tape.

Tire patch and plug kit, an spare engine coolant hose, spare Spark Plugs and Coil packs.

Finally a multi-meter, spare hose clamps, Baby wipes ( If I find my self unexpectedly in Mexico ) Screwdriver set, Razor knife, a leather-man and a roll of electrical tape. Again most of this stuff was free from H.F.

All of this stuff is either covered by the rear mattress cushion or stows under the back seat so it is not visible from outside in case I find myself in Mexico, or the Pacific Northwest.

[shadetreetim]

Now that you have run it for a while, how do you like the HUD device? Is visibility good in bright sunlight?
_________________
Tim Potts

Doing my best every time I drive it to dispel the myth these Vanagons have to be slow!


'89 Vanagon Bluestar/Country Homes 1.8T & .77 4th
'74 Jeep CJ5

[greebly]

In certain conditions like full sun from above and in front at a slight angle the reflections off the dash make it hard to see the H.U.D. I can just barely discern it at those times. Most of the time it is fine. I normally use cruise, so speed display is nice but not essential the functions I really find useful are the Coolant temperature and the battery voltage.

[greebly]

I have been doing small things lately with some bigger projects on the horizon. The seats are in good condition and with the idea of keeping them that way for the next 25 years I installed some seat covers. Removed the armrests and tightened the brackets up with locktite applied to keep them firm. I had my wife sew some nice soft corduroy slip covers.

She sewed Velcro closures on both ends to get a nice tight install. She also sewed a plastic insert where the fabric encounters the post to prevent any problem with rotating the armrests.

I cut new slots into the driver's seat rail to allow it to slide further back. In the picture the passenger seat is at the stock limit to compare the distance.

The wife has been busy, she made me some curtains using magnets sewn into the seam. It required around 60 1/2" x 1/8" N35 magnets to do the project with 3 50 x 60" fleece blankets.

I am happier with the rear bench cover which had separate bottom and top cushion covers. It is tight and fits well. The front seat covers were one piece and are not tightly fitting, but they are comfortable and protect the original seats.

[joetiger]

[greebly]

I have found that if it is sold by 3M it generally is more expensive than competing products, but worth the additional expense.

I recently bought several variations of LED lights to determine what I found acceptable. I was looking for blinding brightness on the brake lights and reverse lights and adequate illumination on the parking lights. I did not change the incandescent turn signal bulbs. I added an inexpensive third brake light that consists of a row of regular red LEDS. I took pictures of the results. The parking indicators are simple corn cob LED's nothing special. the Reverse lights are white Cree projectors. With the Brake lights in particular I went through several types before finding 1156 BA15S with 12 5630 SMD LED +1 Cree Q5 LED in Red. They work well. Here are the links. Brake light http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-1156-BA15S-12-5630-SMD-...2749.l2649

Reverse light 7W Cree Q5 1156 BA15S LED Car Signal Reverse Wedge : http://www.ebay.com/itm/2Pcs-1156-BA15S-P21W-Cree-...2749.l2649

[shagginwagon83]

Thanks for the info! I just ordered both brake+reverse lights for 10 bucks.

Oh and I ordered that same crimper. Its a boss!!
_________________
Brandon
"Jo Ann" - '83.5 Westfalia EJ22e w/Peloquin
Instagram @joannthevan