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Der Schlamm-Kafer
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oldcrow
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 3:31 pm    Post subject: Der Schlamm-Kafer Reply with quote

my project is a early '73 super that I acquired for 350.00 and its going to become a off-road play toy

well I got most of the paint and body work done and after next week I will be starting on the pan

I know its a super but for the price its now a Baja and if and when the front suspension goes I have all the parts I need for a rail (well just about)

anyway I didn't get a before pic but it was a real rust bucket
as you can see I used most of the roof for repair metal

this is my scrap pile ( will only get bigger after the pan gets cut on )

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this is after the paint and body work ( no lights or anything yet )

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and I case you didn't know what "der schlamm-kafer" meant or you did but your not from the south it means "the mud-bug" as you can see on the hood

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so now my next task is the floor pan area it needs a lot of help
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that's it for now i'll show more as I go along with a THOUSAND questions
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like an interesting & fun build, definitely better than a rusted out super beetle, my only concern is the integrity of the body, you will need to add some triangulation in there. The super beetles rely on the body to suspend the vehicle instead of the standard beetles using the pan to support it with the body as extra rigidity.
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the roll bar attached to if there's no floor pan ...yet? Shocked or is it just being suspended by the feet on the rear wheel wells until the floor is back under it?
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a show bar, not a roll bar. Note that the front of the "roll bar" is supported by the windshield frame.

Is there any plan to change the front suspension from the McPherson strut?
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oldcrow
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pan cut out and then POR-15 sprayed after cleaning.

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next is re-enforcing the front head area where the "A" arm attaches

( incidently the cage, 14 gage, is attached to the body, the rear package tray area is 1/8 diamond plate ( only because that's what I had laying around) and the hoop behind the front seats is formed to match the door pillars and welded to the pillars all the way to where the floor starts.)
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enjoyther1de
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't wait to see how it holds up to some rough roads.
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oldcrow
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

beefing up the "A" arm area with 1/8 inch plate.

top area

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bottom area

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now to start on the pan rails
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enjoyther1de
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you going to reinforce the shock mount on the body?
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HikFab
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice Paint Cool

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oldcrow
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the struts will be tied together and tri-angulated down to the frame. but that's next' months project or Decembers. went and picked up some 14 gage plate. glad I spent the 20 bucks more for the diamond vs. smooth.
going to start o the flooring tomorrow.
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oldcrow
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

floor pan installed

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started working on front suspension parts...separating the struts from the wheel spindles was a bit of work.
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smileyman3000
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 2:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This thing is looking absolutely sweet!!
I love it.

Beautiful work of the floorpans mate. What size steel did you end up using?


Smiley Smile
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oldcrow
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks Smiley, the floor pan is 14 gauge

got the plates cut to connect the strut towers, so while the paint was drying I decided to work on the training arms.

aaarrrrggg....started working the trailing arms..the PO had cut the pass. side sub axle all the way to the carter key slot so I will need this stubby.... is the stub axle supposed to so hard to come out? ( had to use a hammer to drive it out ) all the bearings were disintegrated and there were 4 rollers left the rest was in pieces.

going to surf the web to see what my options are wondering will it be cheaper to buy new parts for the stock arms or to just get me a kit perf. 2x2 or 3x3 with the 930 cv's.
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oldcrow
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well it looks like for twice the cost to rebuild the trailing arms (including replacing the stubbies) I can get a 2x2 kit from Appletree for a $1100 bucks.

http://www.appletreeauto.com/TRAILING-ARM-KIT-FOR-930-and-T1-TA3X3930-T1/

does anyone have any experience with this kit? good or bad
thanks, Ken
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oldcrow
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

last few days I have felt pretty good so I was a little busy.
here's a pile of suspension parts cleaned and painted

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and I started on the trans. mount. after searching the web for a hard mount for the later type 1 trans (3 bolt) I couldn't find one. so I went from this

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to this


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I know, I know. 1/2 inch plate is all I had laying around and besides it worked out pretty well and was easy to fab up.

here's a comparison

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oldcrow
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so I got tired of getting dirty working around the trans.
here's the trany

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and now it's clean and painted

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maybe tomorrow i'll start on the rear engine mount
cheers, Ken
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the sake of those who don't have a handy reference chart for sheet metal and plate gauge dimensions, including for our Aussie friend Smiley, that 14 gauge material he used for the floor panels works out to .078", or just under 2mm for the metric guys. I would personally choose something a little thinner, like 16 gauge, which is about 1/16" or about 1.5mm. The original stock floor pans are more like .035" or 0.9mm.

I keep running across people using 1/4" (6mm) and thicker for floor pans in Bajas and fiberglass buggies. That's thicker than the bucket of a 5 cubic yard loader. Even bulldozers up to very large sizes don't have that thick of plate in their blades except for the bottom cutting edge.
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oldcrow
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

started working on the rear mount yesterday and decided to take a page from the "mud truck" guys and make my engine mount like they do.
I figure this will work like a trany stap but be a whole lot stronger.

first cut some 3/16th plate like this

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then match it to the trany and engine

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make sure it all lines up

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oldcrow
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

next to the frame horns and make those mounts

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and then add the cross plate and cage attach point
a little grinding and welding ..and..vwalla ( I know it's over built with 1/8 angle but that's what I had, couldn't see spending money on a whole stick of 3/16th for 3 ft of material)

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tripicana
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice fab work. I would get rid of that spacer plate and just take the solid rear mount off the stock trans location. I know it's not much, but pilot bearing, clutch, and starter engagement might be affected...
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