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Air-Cooled Head
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 2:13 pm    Post subject: Rust Measles Reply with quote

I’m pulling an old project out of deep storage and putting it on the front burner.
The car was sand blasted and primered to prevent flash rusting. Looks like repairs were made on the fenders, and then rattle-canned.
10 years later, the fenders appear to have developed “Rust Measles”. Little spots/pits of rust. Lots of ‘em.
So now I’m taking it down to bare metal to prep for paint. Problem is, while the rest of the fender is shiney, the “measles” are now little pits of black.

My question is how do deal with these? Someone suggested sand-blasting again, but I REALLY don’t want to go there. That means paying to have the car blasted, repaired and primered, again.

Is there something I can treat these spots with before etch primer?

Suggestions please!
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BBSquarebackChick
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would just buckle down and either pay to have it done or do it yourself,better safe then sorry then to try and do something half ass.
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74vwbaja
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the only way to fix it right is to strip it again Sad
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Air-Cooled Head
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 1:21 pm    Post subject: Old Thread Revival Reply with quote

Ha Ha! Around 7 years later, I’m reviving my old thread.

Same situation, different car. After sitting under a car cover for years, I’ve got “rust measles” all over the car, as seen in these pictures.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

So, what would you do to cure the measles?
The simple answer is “re-spray”. But I don’t want to go that route because, altho you can't tell in the pictures:
1) Its all OG paint, and
2) Has a wonderful patina, and
3) Has to original fender beading which cannot be replaced (except by black)

I have some ideas, but would like the input of my knowledgeable Sambanista brethren.
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lemon Juice will dissolve rust and is pretty gentle as an initial treatment.
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bad part about those spots is on the outside it can be a 1/8" spot but under the paint it will be the size of a quarter on the sheet metal. BTDT
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After lemon juice use phosphoric acid & finally good wax.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It does not matter what you do.

The rust measles....meaning rust spots anywhere means that the paint is porous. It means that water has gotten to metal.

Unfortunately rust is not just vertical. It spreads horizontally......even if its only a few microns thick it will keep growing. Unless you can strip it...even with an acid...from all sides.....you will never get it all. Recoating with anything on top of that....will make it 100 times worse down the line.

As for OG paint. ...who cares.
Its paint. Lovely and historic though it may be.....what is more important....metal or paint? Which can be replaced.....metal or paint?

I am more impressed with OG metal with no rust than I am with any paint. And patina....dont get me started. Ray
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Air-Cooled Head
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
It does not matter what you do.

The rust measles....meaning rust spots anywhere means that the paint is porous. It means that water has gotten to metal.

Unfortunately rust is not just vertical. It spreads horizontally......even if its only a few microns thick it will keep growing. Unless you can strip it...even with an acid...from all sides.....you will never get it all. Recoating with anything on top of that....will make it 100 times worse down the line.

As for OG paint. ...who cares.
Its paint. Lovely and historic though it may be.....what is more important....metal or paint? Which can be replaced.....metal or paint?

I am more impressed with OG metal with no rust than I am with any paint. And patina....dont get me started. Ray


Damn it, Ray!
Why you gotta rain the truth on my parade of false hope? d'oh! Laughing

Guess I'll drive it "as is" this season and keep it as dry as possible. Rolling Eyes I've got plans that would probably necessitate a paint job, measles or no. Shhh
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Air-Cooled Head
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, after months of putting it off, I finally dove into my rust measles problem.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

And made a few “discoveries”.

First, the car isn’t as “accident free” as I’d thought. There is no evidence of a previous repair (No creases, hammered out wrinkles visible from inside trunk), hood & fenders look like they’ve never been removed, all stickers present. But I found quite a bit of filler in the hood, I finally found a small crease, under/beside the hood emblem. Repair would have required removal of the latch mount, so they just covered it w/ filler.

When I say quite a bit of filler, I mean A LOT of filler.
After quite a bit of work, I found this;
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

MORE rust spots!
Look closely. Those spots are rust spots that didn’t make it to the surface (yet).
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is when I realized/understood where the blisters came from: Pinholes in the filler.
Whomever did the previous filler work, left a lot of pinholes. Over time the paint absorbed enough moisture to allow the metal underneath to start to rust. Leaving it under a car cover for a couple of years must have provided the perfect conditions for the rusting to accelerate, with some spots eventually bursting onto the surface.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

So now, I’m taking most of the hood down to bare metal. This oughta be fun. (NOT!)
Fortunately, the fenders are not nearly as bad.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hate rust.. I just went thru straightening out my front bumper on my 70' bus. It had been poorly repaired. They spread filler right over the dent, rust and then, the original paint before applying a cheap coat of paint over it.

What was surprising to me was when I got to the original paint. As some of the other posters already stated, you could see clearly where there was a rust spot from a rock chip on the original paint. The rust spread underneath the original paint a further 1/2" all the way around the little knick..

It was a great reminder to ALWAYS use touch up paint on rock chips going forward..
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Air-Cooled Head wrote:
Well, after months of putting it off, I finally dove into my rust measles problem.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

And made a few “discoveries”.

First, the car isn’t as “accident free” as I’d thought. There is no evidence of a previous repair (No creases, hammered out wrinkles visible from inside trunk), hood & fenders look like they’ve never been removed, all stickers present. But I found quite a bit of filler in the hood, I finally found a small crease, under/beside the hood emblem. Repair would have required removal of the latch mount, so they just covered it w/ filler.

When I say quite a bit of filler, I mean A LOT of filler.
After quite a bit of work, I found this;
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

MORE rust spots!
Look closely. Those spots are rust spots that didn’t make it to the surface (yet).
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is when I realized/understood where the blisters came from: Pinholes in the filler.
Whomever did the previous filler work, left a lot of pinholes. Over time the paint absorbed enough moisture to allow the metal underneath to start to rust. Leaving it under a car cover for a couple of years must have provided the perfect conditions for the rusting to accelerate, with some spots eventually bursting onto the surface.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

So now, I’m taking most of the hood down to bare metal. This oughta be fun. (NOT!)
Fortunately, the fenders are not nearly as bad.


Tom, sandblast those spots (all of them), or you'll be back in there fixing them again in 4 to 6 years. BTDT had to fix it.

On my Notch earlier this year, I sandblasted a bunch of them on my roof. I found there was still OE primer under all of the work I did back in 2000. The rust spots were under the OE stuff that I stripped off this time. Shocked
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