Brakes seized on '57 Beetle

[MMMVW]

Hi everyone - A quick question. The front brakes on my '57 beetle have seized. I haven't used the car in a couple of years and I want to tow it to a local repair shop. Is there any way to disconnect the front brakes? I can't even turn the wheel to the access point where I can then back off the shoes and turn the wheels more freely.

The back brakes are all good so it's just the fronts. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

[stale air]

It could be the front flex lines keeping the fluid from backing off from the wheel cylinders. I would try pulling the lines first and see if that releases them.
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[MMMVW]

Thanks I'll give that a try. It's both front wheels (so not just one) so not sure if that make a difference.

[EverettB]

It probably doesn't make a difference.

Yes, rubber lines could be the issue.
It's not uncommon for more than one to be bad if they are the same age.
If you don't know how old the rubber lines are, you probably need all 4 of them replaced, regardless of any other issues.

I had this happen in the rear and it was not the rubber lines.
The problem was both cylinders were corroded from age so as soon as I pressed on the pedal, the shoes were stuck out in the out position, locking the drums.

My car was not running at the time but if your car is running you might be able to eek it forward a little to line up the adjustment holes and release things that way.

Since my car was not running I ended up using a brake drum puller to basically rip the drums off.
This messed up the shoes but new rear cylinders and shoes and a full brake bleed and I was back in business.
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[MMMVW]

Awesome advice! thanks

[57BLITZ]

Loosen the wheel bearing nuts several turns and rock the car. Don't jack the car off the ground . . . just rock the car side to side. The slop in the wheel bearings should be enough to allow some play between the drums and shoes. Hopefully that will break 'em loose.
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[Snort]

Get some bolts longer than your lugs, bolt a steel bar to two lug holes on the drum. Using the bar for leverage, tap the drum with a hammer repeatedly, not super hard of course or you could crack it, but slightly less than you would strike a common framing nail. Adding heat could also help. Avoid a drum puller if possible as the shoes could come off with the drum, breaking the wheel cylinder and adjuster slots.

[MMMVW]

Thanks guys. I am going to work on the car first thing tomorrow morning and will keep you posted. It's going to be either a 5 minute job or a full weekender. You know how this type of stuff can go.

I am armed with lots of good advice from the forums so will make good use of my time.

[TDCTDI]

Sounds like the shoes rusted to the drum, it a bit brutal sounding, but take the wheel off & using a BFH, strike the drum several times towards the outer edge of the drum. 6-8 good hits with a 5lb hammer between the lug holes (so you don't damage threads) should break them loose. You can hold a 2x4/6 against the drum if your worried about marring the drum but that will also absorb some of the shock needed to coerce the shoes to let go.
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[Eric&Barb]

For rusted to drum shoes, lots easier and less damaging if you just remove two lug bolts on each drum and use a long thin punch thru each lug bolt hole and hammer to shock each shoe loose.
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