65 Notch, the work continues

[Nectar_F]

Hey all, just wanted to start a thread about my 65 notch.

i boight it about 4 months ago, with the idea of quick resto, but the more i thiught about, the more i wanted it to be a little bit nicer than that.
being so time poor, i only started to do some dismantling in the past few weeks.
i have had a panel guy come look at it, and a deal was done fir him to get the body and panels nice and straight, ready for paint.
panels were loaded and delivered to him yesterday.

body will go to him in a few weeks, while the pan will stay with me, to get it sorted.

the plan is to get it rust free, straight and shiny.
new paint
new complete interior
detail and check the motor ( it was rebuilt 3 years ago, stock 1600)
short axles on the rear
2 inch narrowed t1 ball join beam, with correct type3 profile mounts and gussets, with dropped spindles.

the previous owner had a 12v and disc brake (front) conversions done, so that will help to get 4.5 and 5.5 porsche fuchs on there too

hope to have some progress soon.

i will be asking lots of questions along the way.

[Nectar_F]

oh, and god i hate body deadener....previous owner was trigger happy with that crap!

[Nectar_F]

little update.
i have bought pop outs, b pillars for the pop out tabs, 65-66 only bug rear wheel bearing covers for the narrowed rear end. found and bought rear small reflector bases and reflectors (all from this site, just waiting for them to arrive)

just bought an original uncracked rhd dash too.

bonnet and decklid are now in hi-fill, and guards (fenders) are bare metal, ready for a little reshaping.

slowly, slowly.....

[Nectar_F]

Hey all, a bit more progress (well pics from the weekend)
but i have a question, what do you guys do re rust proofing/converting/sealing in the closed areas such as the heater channels, and between the rear valance and the engine bay? do you cut slots , spray and reweld?

[raygreenwood]

You need to remove crusty rust down to a thin surface of rust maybe .001"-.003" thick. Then you can treat with a phosphoric acid solution.

You can spray this inside unreachable areas. If you need to do that.....use Jasco metal prep. It is much stronger than ospho so in areas where the rust is unreachable for sanding.....soak the areas. ...let dry....use long rods with a die grinder or drill to rattle and scrape the surfaces and then reapply. Let each application dry completely. Dont wash it off.

Then you can use something like Eastwoods body channel sealer spray. Ray

[Nectar_F]

hey all, i just received a pair of pop outs, and the 2 bottom frame to frame screws wont budge, even after being soaked in WD 40 (our penetrating fluid)
i was thinking to drill out the screws, but i cant seem to find new ones anywhere.....any idea where i can get them? do bus ones work?

Also, are the inner seals as easy as slipping tgem on and rescrewing the frames together, or is it best to make a clamp type jig, to make them go together?

thanks 😄

[ibjack]

It's a pain in the arse. I just finished doing mine. Drill out the screws and tap it to the size of screws you find. I used 4x8m. I used a ratcheting tie down strap, hot soap tub of water and a rubber mallet. It takes about 2 hours per window
_________________
'68 Lotus White T34 automatic sunroof
'64 Manila Yellow T34
'65 Sea Blue Square Panel
the1500club.com
Shop Lacky at the T3/34 Factory, https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100094313902074

[squaretobehip]

[Air-Cooled Head]

Ya might also try some REAL penetrating oil; PB Blaster or Kroil. WD stands for "Water Displacement". It's not designed to do what we expect of penetrating oil.
I even found an old can of spray penetratnt from a Clark gas station that worked better than WD.
_________________
Everything known to man has been written.
Readers are Leaders!

[Bobnotch]

[Nectar_F]

happy new year all....
finally got some time with the notch, to get the body off the pan, to get it to the panel guy, now thats hes back from touring europe with his band.....

this was a monumental day, as ive never removed a body from a pan before, and after a few little things i forgot to disconnect (heater box cables) its was all smooth sailing.

i thought this car was gulf blue, but have discovered its actually seablue.
i was torn between leaving it the stock colour, or doing it toga white, with a black roof, but im sticking with original.

am really happy that the pan, only have a few pin holes, and one little crack to weld up.

[Nectar_F]

so today i had a spare moment, and decided to remove the motor. i had never done it b4 ( i have watched people do it)
so i made a timber dolly with castors on it, jacked it up, and pulled the motor.
previous owner advised me that it had beed reconditioned 3 1/2 years ago, and just looking at the overall cleanliness of it, i think it was. i will be getting i checked though.

I was going to swap axles to short axles, but i think my 5.5 fuchs with 186/65 will fit, with the current long axles.

next (hopefully later today, or tomorrow) i will pressure wash the pan, and trans, as well as remove the tinware from the motor to get it painted.

Quick question, any recommendations as to air filters, other than stock, on the stock carbs.i want the motor to look very minimal.

thanks.

[Nectar_F]

oh, and those headers are goin.....just got to figure out what exhaust to get, as i would like a bit of lumpier tone than stock. 😎😄

[Nectar_F]

Hi all....not much progress of late, as i went away for a couple of weeks, but now back into it.

most of the bitumen body deadener is off, doors hace been bare metalled, and other than a little bondo, no rust.

hunting for some parts at the moment.
what i do need to know is, what does everyone use to replace the dense card that covers the engine bay/hatch? is there anything that is close to stock appearence? i did a search, but maybe i searched the wrong phrase.....

thanks heaps

[icelancer]

I KNOW I read a post about that last august. It came out really nice too. If I find it before someone else ill post the link.
_________________
71 squareback (1904 A/T)
71 super beetle (1904 M/T)
B5.5 wagon M/T daily driver
SB for squareback or san bernardino....who knows.

[68vwfasty]

like this?

You will find it under the FAQ - Restoration of engine compartment lid hatch

[Nectar_F]

[Bobnotch]

[Nectar_F]

Slowly slowly, getting some stuff done.
made a rolling stand for the pan,
removed the front end, removed the trans and the sub frame, bare metalled the top of the pans, had some small welds done (a few more to go since we didnt see tgem all in the fading light) and put a coat of epoxy primer on.
next is to get all the smaller pan bits cleaned up and painted.

[Nectar_F]

Well, it's been a little quiet on the notch lately.
I have started dismantling the transaxle, and a donor one, to get the short axle conversion done.
Pan has had all rust repaired, sanded, primed and one coat of semi gloss black on the top side done. It is currently flipped onto the underside, and has been cleaned ready for paint.
Subframe is ready to go back on, as its been cleaned and painted.
Body, well some rust repairs have been done, where the decklid springs attach to the body, so the only welding to do now is rear valance, a couple of little sections on the passenger sill, and the pop out bracket sections.