Bunnies unknown year Super Beetle

[bunnyoken]

[bunnyoken]

This is that whtie foamy stuff that looks more gritty now that its out of the engine ( btw this is the back of the oil cap)

This is the what is under the oil cap after wiping out the gritty foam

front and back of the clutch disc and pressure plate

Front and back of the flywheel

[ps2375]

So this motor was not at the bottom of a lake, but, it appears to have been sitting under a try covered by wet leaves for quite some time. So far, you haven't posted a picture of anything that I would even consider using again.

[Zundfolge1432]

[Zundfolge1432]

I have bought engines just for core parts though. This one turned out to be all standard, still had factory bearings. Don't get in a hurry. Go to a VW show see what you can get at the swap meet.

[Zundfolge1432]

[Zundfolge1432]

Don't let these armchair wannabe mechanics here rain on your parade. I see at least 50 dollars in core parts not to mention the nuts bolts and washers,dist drive,crank gears etc,etc. the flywheel can be resurfaced the rust in the seal area can determine wether it is reusable. Just last year I needed a flywheel and paid 50 for good used. Let us know what it looks like inside. The experience you'll gain just taking this apart is invaluable.

People told me this lowlight Ghia was a piece of shit and not to bother. I found a 36 hp engine put it all back together and it sold quickly.

[[email protected]]

Looks like you need to become an expert at rust removal. Simple white vinegar can do wonders. Soak overnight and then use a steel wire brush and screwdriver to scrape the corners. I then soak it overnight in a solution of baking powder to neutralize the acid, otherwise it just flash rusts again. That before picture is not a black painted flap it is a thick rusty flap.

[Volks Wagen]

Looks a bit rusty from the outside, but keep at it. I'd not pour cash into it tho. Better off learning as you are on this and see if you can get it running for next to nothing.
_________________
1973 1303 with AB-motor - sporadic
reconstruction as time permits, 1986 ex-Bundeswehr Doka - on the road again.

I'm definitely, probably, the worlds greatest lover.

Aithníonn ciaróg ciaróg eile.

[Rome]

Bunny, at the bottom of the engine, the shiny silver part is the bottom of the oil strainer. You need to carefully remove it off the 6 small studs (it slips onto them) to determine if the edges of the engine case are corroded and eaten away.

Use a flat-brade screwdriver to work the strainer off each of the studs slightly at a time, then pull off the strainer. Have a catch pan underneath since there will likely still be oil and semi-jellified liquids sitting on the top of the strainer. Then take another shot like you did to show us the engine hole.

Since your engine had its oil cap missing, it is likely that moisture or other small items (crushed acorns, etc) fell through that oil filler hole and into the engine. You will certainly need to take the engine fully apart to clean and assess. You can see debris (leaves, seeds, etc) on top of the cylinders in between the fins of the cylinders in one of your photos. These fins must be unblocked so that the air from the engine fan can blow down the fins for cooling.

Do you have a good repair manual for engines? I can strongly recommend 2 for a first-timer: the perennial favorite "compleat idiot manual" as well as Tom Wilson's book "How to rebuild your aircooled VW engine". The first assumes that you have no technical knowledge so that the language is really basic'; the second one breaks the engine down from the extemities inward just like you will.

We're all glad to help you with your findings, and provide encouragement with the engine so please continue to update us, even if you are hesitant on what to do next.

[bunnyoken]

Okay so here is the top of the oil filter thing

And here is a new photo of the hole with it cleaned .. . Kinda

Can't do much else today due to all the rain, but I will try and get the tin off next. May have to use a screw extractor again to get the screws off. But at least I can find replacements at the hardware store and they are stainless steel.

[ps2375]

I think you are asking for trouble wanting to build/refurb a car in a place that limits you so much on what and how much you can do. Cause this is an automobile, and being such, simple things can snowball quickly into a not so simple thing that cause you problems with things other than the car. GL

[bunnyoken]

Okay time for today's update

I started to remove the tin screws but a couple of them are just to rusted or stripped from the last person whole worked on this engine. I am going to have to wait til i get my drill back from my brother in law to use the screw extractor on them.

Few new photos to share with ya'll.

Some sort of filter?

And under the filter

[Air-Cooled Head]

Bunny, as someone said above “expensive lessons are in your future”.
From your questions, and all, may I suggest you buy/get/steal a Bentley (or any VW) manual, any year.

There is soooo, so much you don’t know, you need the manual, just to get an idea of what stuff is and what it’s for.

Right now, you’re attempting to build a car, with your eyes closed.

While you may not have to money to buy a decent, running car at the moment, your course of action ensures you won’t have the money for years and years to come. Unless you win the lottery.
Getting that motor to run at all is gonna be in the $1200 to $1500 range. And that’s if you’re lucky. And unless you’re a trained and/or experienced trans rebuilder, have the proper tools and an adequate shop, I’d suggest you don’t go there. There are many, highly experienced VW folks here. Most of them leave trannny work to the professionals.

Buy a manual. Use it for ref as you tear into what you have and learn as you go. (At best, it’s worth some cores. Not much there worth refurb.) Save your $$$.
Then buy the best-est, complete-est, non-rusty-est car you can find. You’ll be $$$ ahead in the long and short run.
_________________
Everything known to man has been written.
Readers are Leaders!

[fred69vert]

Bunny,

Not my business but just want to let you know what to expect. I bought a 69 'vert back in 2007. Good running car, looked nice too. Looks can be deceiving. About 8 months later I discovered the bondo-encased cardboard, some in body structural members.

2 years and untold $$ later I have a 69 'vert, with a 68 body (couldn't fix all the rust), rebuilt engine, replaced transmission. Now because I skimped and painted it myself I have to paint it again.

SO....tear that engine ALL THE WAY DOWN and have it inspected by a VW expert. If you invest the money to build an engine on a bad crankcase, you're just throwing it away.

I would try to find a car in decent shape that is running. At least you'll have an idea what to start with.

On the other hand, when I was in the Navy I took a course on engine rebuilding. The instructor (a CPO in the ship's tractor shop) went to a junkyard and picked up a V8 with a cracked water jacket. Basically a junk engine. But we learned how to tear down and rebuild that engine, and even had it running (before it was discarded over the side from the carrier's aircraft elevator). You can use this engine to learn how to build one.
_________________
I'm not losing my hair, it's just retired and relocating further south.

1969 VW convertible, "Heidi"

[Cusser]

[[email protected]]

[57BLITZ]

[[email protected]]

The Bentley manual is a horrible choice for the beginning builder. While every step is completely accurate the steps are not in an order that would result in a running engine. To use the Bentley you need to know exactly what steps are needed and the order of them occuring and just need to check the tolerances, or torque specs as you go to make sure things are done by the book. To actually build a motor using that manual requires one to hop all over the book to read how to do each step, but without knowing which step is next that is a very daunting task.

Tom Wilson's manual on rebuilding an aircooled VW engine goes from step 1 on, in the correct order with everything spelled out. A much better choice for this novice engine builder. Read the page, do what it says, read the next page. Put a bookmarker in when you get done for the evening.

[herbie13]

As the previous poster said, Tom Wilson's book is invaluable. Also, find a copy of the book "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive", by John Muir. It's a straight forward approach to living with your air cooled Volkswagen, and how to take care of it. You can find a used copy at used book stores.

As another rebuilding source take a look at the "Bug Me Video's" volumes 2 & 3. They cover pulling the motor and clutch, and complete engine rebuilding. http://www.bugmevideo.com/volume3.html

Also, the H5 engine case is a 1969 case. I had an old time VW mechanic tell me that "...yep, the H5 case is okay, but the material is pretty soft. When it's time for a rebuild you'd be better off getting a different case." Just one man's opinion. I still have my H5.