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valves and valve guide question
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Biggyclops
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2015 7:39 am    Post subject: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

Hi guys! Well I got the valve springs off and now on my 70 super beetle with a 34pict 3 DP looking at the valves and such.. my question is:

1) the valves look pretty good! Should I take some sort of measurements to ensure it?

2) The valve guides feel pretty good with the original valves (tiny bit of movement on all) when do you replace them?

3) If I do anything at all for replacement do you think replacing the valve springs is of the utmost?

I will be posting pictures of heads later on today.
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jlex
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2015 1:48 pm    Post subject: Re: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

Have the valves ever been replaced? I remember reading that the exhaust valves crystallize with the heat/cool cycles and become brittle so if you have access to them (heads are off) guys like to replace them as a preventative measure.
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Multi69s
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2015 8:59 pm    Post subject: Re: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

I can't remember, but is the 70 a non doghouse engine? If it is, replacing the exhaust valves are mandatory, especially #3. Regardless, for myself, anytime I tear down an engine that has a few miles on it, I ALWAYS replace the exhaust valves.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2015 9:19 pm    Post subject: Re: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

Yep. 1970 was the last year for the non-doghouse shroud. It was also the last year for the single port manifold. In the USA it got a 30 PICT-3 carburetor. It did have the dual relief case though.

But he has a 34 PICT-3. So it may have been converted not only to a dual port but also a doghouse.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2015 11:44 pm    Post subject: Re: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

tiny bit of movement....tiny is a very relative term. have them checked out by someone that knows what there doing or just get a new set.
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Biggyclops
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2015 9:23 am    Post subject: Re: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

mark tucker wrote:
tiny bit of movement....tiny is a very relative term. have them checked out by someone that knows what there doing or just get a new set.


Very true! might as well be safe than sorry!
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Biggyclops
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 10:46 am    Post subject: Re: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

I finally took some pictures of it!
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Thinking they look pretty good from what i can see so far! What do you think?
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 10:55 am    Post subject: Re: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

replace at the least the ex valves with stainless.CB perf has then about $7. ea. then a good valve job, gap the keepers, so they grab the valves, reserface the heads and clean up the boogers where something went through there and check the pistons and rings too, replace if needed.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 3:37 pm    Post subject: Re: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

Biggyclops wrote:
Hi guys! Well I got the valve springs off and now on my 70 super beetle with a 34pict 3 DP looking at the valves and such.. my question is:

1) the valves look pretty good! Should I take some sort of measurements to ensure it?

2) The valve guides feel pretty good with the original valves (tiny bit of movement on all) when do you replace them?

3) If I do anything at all for replacement do you think replacing the valve springs is of the utmost?

I will be posting pictures of heads later on today.


Get a book, best bet for the specs and test procedures. The valves stretch over time, then they can break. So measure the length per book specs. The extent of wiggling of valves in the guides is also a test, but the other way is to replace the valves and replace and ream the guides. You can also test the springs or replace. Get Tom Wilsons book, or bring the heads to a shop Wink There's a bit more to it, cos you need to check the spring pockets etc. and the overall geometry blah blah. Why are you checking them out anyway? Just taking a peek or was there a problem like smoke, low compression, heat etc?
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Biggyclops
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 3:51 pm    Post subject: Re: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

No smoke but figured I wanted to rebuild them since I have the motor off
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Multi69s
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 5:38 pm    Post subject: Re: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

It almost looks like someone replaced the ex seats at some point. The intake seats are getting really low in comparison, and don't have much meat left. Make sure that you take them to someone who knows ACVWs, or they may cause more harm then good. Good luck
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Biggyclops
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 6:57 pm    Post subject: Re: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

Multi69s wrote:
It almost looks like someone replaced the ex seats at some point. The intake seats are getting really low in comparison, and don't have much meat left. Make sure that you take them to someone who knows ACVWs, or they may cause more harm then good. Good luck


would it probably be a better idea just to replace them?
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Multi69s
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2015 10:42 am    Post subject: Re: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

It is one of those cases where cost could be a big factor, but ideally yes. Especially if you have the guides changed. Granted, I am just looking at a picture, but you probably have one seat cut left, after that, they will need to be changed. I have edited your picture so you can see what I see. If you notice the distance between the arrows, the ex seat has a far greater distance then the in. This area becomes smaller with each valve job. So looking at the in seat, there is not much room left. Also, when you replace the guides, they do not end up exactly centered in relation to the old guides. This means that when they cut the seats, material is removed from the seat in a different pattern. Since you don't have much room for fudging, you can run out of seat material. Now good head guys can get creative with different cutters, but then cost goes up, and it is just a band aid. So if you want to keep this engine for a long time, I would replace the seats.

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volksworld
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2015 8:57 pm    Post subject: Re: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

the original exhaust valves were a 2 piece design which came apart when overheated,so the solution was always one piece stainless valves...of course the odds that 40 year old valves are original arent very good...you really have to know what you're doing to replace seats properly and not have them come loose later...so much so that new heads are usually cheaper than having a seat replacement done correctly...so i wouldnt recomend touching the seats
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Juanito84
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 10:04 am    Post subject: Re: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

The Bentley manual recommends just getting new heads rather than reseating them. Not that a good seating job wouldn't work. But you have to weigh the pros and cons.
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Biggyclops
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 10:27 am    Post subject: Re: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

Looks like I will be ordering new heads!
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Multi69s
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 12:23 pm    Post subject: Re: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

The bottom line is cost. Both replacing the guides and seats is not a DIY project. It takes special knowledge and tools, and should be done by someone who regularly does ACVW heads. So compare the cost between having yours rebuilt, and going new. If you go rebuild, don't just trade in the heads, have yours rebuilt. Luckily the Type one engine is not prone to dropping seta like the Type 4, even when rebuilt.

I have found out that one the hard way Evil or Very Mad
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69 road Bug 2110
73 Squareback - 2L, T4, Automatic W/ AC
Gone, but many fond memories 69 Baja Bug 2010 - 5 Rib Bus Transaxle
Gone but not forgotten 72 Baja Bug 2010
My builds
T4 into Squareback http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=458944&highlight=
Auto Trans Rebuild http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516066&highlight=
AC in Squareback https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight=
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Juanito84
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 5:44 pm    Post subject: Re: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

Multi69s wrote:
The bottom line is cost.


Well, cost and quality.

Cheap Chinese heads vs. pricy OEM Mexican heads.

Cheap, never-did-it-before seat job vs. pricy done-a-thousand seat job.
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Multi69s
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 2:50 pm    Post subject: Re: valves and valve guide question Reply with quote

Juanito84 wrote:


Well, cost and quality.

Cheap Chinese heads vs. pricy OEM Mexican heads.

Cheap, never-did-it-before seat job vs. pricy done-a-thousand seat job.


Definitely stay away form the never-did-it-before seat job.
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69 road Bug 2110
73 Squareback - 2L, T4, Automatic W/ AC
Gone, but many fond memories 69 Baja Bug 2010 - 5 Rib Bus Transaxle
Gone but not forgotten 72 Baja Bug 2010
My builds
T4 into Squareback http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=458944&highlight=
Auto Trans Rebuild http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516066&highlight=
AC in Squareback https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight=
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