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glutamodo 
The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26325
Location: Douglas, WY
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 Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 2:26 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah, put it in the parts bin for now. And really, you might be better off not having used it - a lot of "rebuild kits" in recent years aren't that great in quality. About the only parts I'll use from them are the rubber diaphrams and O-rings. The needle valves are often crap, and the half-gaskets, If the originals are still decent I don't see any reason not to reuse them.
Sometimes it is a bit of a wiggle/pull to get the accelerator pump's discharge tube to come out. But if yours is giving a solid stream now and it's aimed right, then call it good for now. I'd give it a tap from above with a punch or screwdriver down at its base, to make sure it's seated solidly.
I wonder if it was just a stuck check ball in the carb body that happened. Usually "gunk" in that nozzle doesn't just flush out, you have to take it out and back-flush it.
-Andy |
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jgrexx
Samba Member
Joined: July 19, 2012
Posts: 342
Location: Alabama
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| Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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i have no idea. it could have been the ball. all i know is it started working all of a sudden lol. maybe the stabil i put in the gas tank finally broke the gunk loose? maybe some leftover ethanol crap in there? who knows? i'm just glad i don't have to take the carb off now to replace the accelerator pump diaphram.
one thing i've noticed is everything on the carb has been loosely tightened. i dunno if they were scared of overtightening or what but all the jets, needle and seat, etc. weren't tightened that much. i went over everything and made sure they were all snug. i guess i can't complain since the carb was only $40. everything seems to be in good shape though. the place i bought it from has gone up to $75 now. i got it here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=955260
these carbs aren't really hard to rebuild at all. the only thing that might be hard would be if the bushings needed to be replaced. i have no idea where you would get new bushings from. everything else is pretty simple. alot easier to buy a used carb for cheap and fix it up than to pay $200 for a new one.
i hear you on the new parts. new parts suck. my old valve cover gaskets were broken into 3 pieces and i had no leaks. my brand new ones leak. i've put permatex on them and everything and i've still had a bit of trouble with them. finally got one side to stop leaking and working on the other lol. also had a small drip from under the oil sump plate with brand new gaskets. i guess they have to break-in or something? it's rediculous. brand new parts shouldn't leak. they should work.
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1970 Baja Bug
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jgrexx
Samba Member
Joined: July 19, 2012
Posts: 342
Location: Alabama
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 8:33 am Post subject: |
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the hesitation is completely gone now. i still can't get the volume screw to do right. i turn it left or right from 2 1/2 turns out and nothing changes. the idle doesn't raise or lower. it does start bogging if i turn it out 3 turns or in to 2 turns out. i'm just gonna leave it at 2 1/2 turns out and go with it. it idles smooth and accelerates smooth at that setting. really anywhere from 2 1/4 turns out up to 2 3/4 turns out it does fine. i adjusted the fast idle adjuster from not touching at all to barely touching and then 1/4-1/2 turn past touching the cam and that didn't change anything when trying to fine tune the volume screw. i just set it back to where it's supposed to be. barely touching the cam. it may not be perfect but oh well who cares. i dont' have a tach or anything to get it perfect. it will run fine. that's all that matters.
i dunno maybe it's not completely warmed up or something but i wait 5-10 min before i try to adjust it. maybe i'll take it for a long drive one day and that way i'll know for sure it's fully warmed up and then try to adjust it then. all i can figure is maybe the lack of heat risers is making it not wanna adjust right. also there's no flaps on the fan shroud nor does it have a thermostat. it's never gonna be perfect.
one thing is for sure though. there is no hesitation using the German Bosch 009 dizzy with the h30/31 carb.
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1970 Baja Bug
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ashman40
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 15987
Location: North Florida, USA
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 5:27 pm Post subject: |
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| jgrexx wrote: |
| i adjusted the fast idle adjuster from not touching at all to barely touching and then 1/4-1/2 turn past touching the cam and that didn't change anything when trying to fine tune the volume screw. i just set it back to where it's supposed to be. barely touching the cam. |
This means the throttle plate is completely closed at warmed up idle. This would mean there is no air flow past the edge of the throttle butterfly. All air flow would be through the hole in the throttle plate (keeps air velocity up but does not draw fuel from the idle holes.. or through the bypass circuit. This should actually cause a problem because the air-fuel flowing through the idle holes is at rest at idle and as soon as the throttle opens it needs to start moving. There would be a momentary hesitation as the fuel starts moving from a stop. You want the air-fuel mixture already moving through the idle circuit while at idle so there is less acceleration needed when the throttle is opened.
I can't argue with your fast idle screw adjustment if it is working for you, but I've not seen anywhere that suggests adjusting the screw so it is barely touching the cam (zero opening). Can you identify where you got this setting from?
_________________
AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road  }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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glutamodo
The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26325
Location: Douglas, WY
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 5:42 pm Post subject: |
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| ashman40 wrote: |
| but I've not seen anywhere that suggests adjusting the screw so it is barely touching the cam (zero opening). Can you identify where you got this setting from? |
Probably from the 34PICT-3 setup procedure in the Bentley. All PICT-3 carbs should be set that way, and the H30/31PICT is basically a 31PICT-3 anyway. Steps 4 and 5:
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jgrexx
Samba Member
Joined: July 19, 2012
Posts: 342
Location: Alabama
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 6:50 pm Post subject: |
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i got it from rob and dave's here:
With the choke held in the full open position (stepped cam at its lowest point), place a piece of notebook paper or a 0.003" feeler gauge between the lowest step of the choke fast idle cam the the Fast Idle Adjuster screw.
Slowly turn the screw in until you feel drag on the paper or the feeler gauge. Then remove the paper or feeler gauge and turn the screw in preciselly 1/2 turn - no more!
taken from here:
http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html
what the bentley says above is slightly different. who is right? going by rob and dave's when you do it that way it's barely touching the cam when you are done. going by bentley's above would be 1/4 turn more in on the screw. who is right?
anyways when i tried it i tried it in both positions and the end result was the same.
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1970 Baja Bug
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glutamodo
The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26325
Location: Douglas, WY
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 6:59 pm Post subject: |
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| I think the goal is for the stress of the return spring on the throttle arm to be borne by the fast idle cam, and not by the butterfly being wedged shut. If you just let it be with the butterfly wedged shut, it would cause premature wear. |
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jgrexx
Samba Member
Joined: July 19, 2012
Posts: 342
Location: Alabama
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 7:13 pm Post subject: |
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i dunno man. these things are so touchy. i mean how can you really know when the fast idle adjuster exactly makes contact with the cam? you can only guess. it's hard to see by eye when it exactly touches. i turned it another 1/4 turn after i think it touched for now but doing it by rob and dave's it seemed the end result was barely touching the cam. bentley's says turn it 1/4 turn more so that's what i did for now. it's hard to know what to do with so many different opinions out there.
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1970 Baja Bug
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Relyt
Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2012
Posts: 1008
Location: WA
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 7:20 pm Post subject: |
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It is hard to tell when it's touching so here's what I did:
I took my thinnest feeler gauge, .0015 I think, and turned the fast idle screw in until I just barely couldn't fit it in between anymore, one more degree out and it could slide in, then I turned it 1/4 turn in as per the Bentley.
_________________
69 Beetle - Daily driver
1600 SP (unknown history)
30 PICT 1 w/power circuit (Volkzbitz)
205T (Bill) |
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jgrexx
Samba Member
Joined: July 19, 2012
Posts: 342
Location: Alabama
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Bug Owner
Samba Member
Joined: June 27, 2012
Posts: 5
Location: Victorville
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| Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 2:47 pm Post subject: |
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| Glenn wrote: |
I've got a Solex H30/31PICT on my 1600DP and it runs great. The vacuum advance port is #1 on the left side.
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I also have an H30/31 on my 1600DP but I am going to replace it because the Solex H30/31 is designed for best use on a SINGLE port engine. This carb does work but I have it with a distributor which has BOTH vacuum lines attached to it. My problem has been with fuel delivery on start up and restartup being too much cranking to get it going and of course the float on the H30 is almost impossible to find a replacement when they fail like mine did. When they fail, the fuel cut off to the bowl does not stop fuel and it just over pressurizes the throttle valve causing a leak out the side of the throttle body and down onto the engine. This happened on the way home from grocery store and I caught it in time luckily. The floats are cheap black plastic that corrodes on the H30/31 btw. I will be replacing mine with a 34 pict 3 and the proper intake for Dual Porting. This carburetor is not junk but they are not really made for DP even though many people in Australia like them because of easy installation and other reasons of price I'd guess. EMPI or German OEM is the best way to go so I am going to rebuild a German made carb. and sell this H30/31 for it's parts or somebody who loves these who needs one for their single port. Keep in mind not all floats will fail as mine did since my car was garaged for 3 years without fuel flowing past the float. These were designed for the dual advance distributor and don't work well with 009 distributors. Good luck with yours and keep on V-Dubbin! |
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jgrexx
Samba Member
Joined: July 19, 2012
Posts: 342
Location: Alabama
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Bug Owner
Samba Member
Joined: June 27, 2012
Posts: 5
Location: Victorville
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| Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 1:48 pm Post subject: |
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| jgrexx wrote: |
| yeah i would use a 34pict-3 on a dual port. i have a single port and use the h30/31. |
Well I will be putting up the good single port parts I replace soon on ads here on Samba for our good single port friends which sometimes need extra parts or replacements for these pieces. Remember, I'll list any known problems such as (You will need a new float) for this carburetor. But You may need the body and use parts off your current one. I love the Samba and I'll be donating a bit from each sale I make because of my listings here to keep this great site going. I wish the Samba shirts were still available in my size! |
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scrivyscriv
Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011
Posts: 2922
Location: Memphis
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| Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 2:44 pm Post subject: |
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| ashman40 wrote: |
Try turning the fast idle adjustment screw out a little (close the throttle plate). I usually set it to 1/4 or 1/2-turn in (open) from where the screw is just touching the lowest flat on the fast idle cam. This opens the throttle plate just enough to expose the idle holes in the throat |
Question about this. When adjusting the fast idle on the H30/31 we're discussing, is the screw adjusted to the last flat step on the cam, or to the rounded part under it?
I can't get my idle mixture screw to lean the idle out enough. I can back it out counterclockwise until the idle starts to stumble, but even when it's screwed all the way in clockwise I can't get enough lean adjustment from it. Sounds similar to what one of the members described earlier in this thread.
Also can anyone verify 100% which port the idle and power jets should be in?
_________________
Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help. |
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tom_hd02
Samba Member
Joined: July 09, 2013
Posts: 53
Location: Massachusetts
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| Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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The rounded part under the last flat step.
The correct vacuum port is the one on the left side of the carb (above the bypass/volume control screws). You have to take in consideration which distributor you're using.
I had a h30/31 installed on my 1600cc DP several months ago. the jetting was:
127.5 Main jet
65 angled jet
50 straight jet (right side)
That worked fine for my engine. I was using a 205T distributor (single vacuum advance)
I hope this helps. |
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67X2
Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2012
Posts: 17
Location: California
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 10:29 pm Post subject: Re: Solex 30/31 H |
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Hey Fellas, I know this is an old thread but I just wanted to throw out a quick "thank you" for the discussion. I was able to go through all of the steps y'all mentioned and put everything I messed up, back together again. I had disassembled my entire H30/31 without knowing what I was doing and, after many attempts to reassemble, was unsuccessful at adjusting everything correctly. The comment from tom_hd02:
127.5 Main jet
65 angled jet
50 straight jet (right side)
.....really helped. I realized I put my 65 on the straight jet and my 50 on the angled jet. Switched them, and WHAMO! Running like a top again (after a few adjustments)
***
'67 Deluxe Bus, 1641 single port, H30/31, 113 906 205 K dizzy
(don't judge...I love her)  |
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