Found my leak !......... Pics....

[legotech7]

As I was adding some modifications to my 70 bug, I ran into quite a few issues, witch I have posted else where here, But one thing was driving me crazy while trying to get the car to run smooth, bu to no avail!. I have replace two carburetor's that I could not tune for shit!...I think I found my problem.. I replaced the exhaust muffler with a progressive header and muffler.. I like the way they sound...So I took off some of the tin to double check my connections, and on the left side I found this....you can see where its leaking...

And a gap that looks like .020 ....

Could this be why I couldn't adjust my 34 pict correctly? It is an empi header and I was warned not to get it cause they are cheaply made. I tried to tighten the nuts but they wouldn't and I was afraid I would snap one. How can I fix this?... Do I add another gasket or use some sort of sealant? I'm not sure... Took me awhile to find that leak and the only one I could find. I have a 009 dizzy I'm going to replace with a 034 ELECTRONIC VAC ADV DISTRIBUTOR, I was told that this dizzy is more compatible with the 34 pict carb, but I have to fix this leak first... Is it possible to bend these flanges so they meet better? And if so , how would I do that?... What can I do?........

[Volks Wagen]

Well the 2 flanges aren't parallel, so you either bend one (the cheapest or easiest) or grind/file to get them parallel, or get a fat compressible gasket, or maybe some of that exhaust repair putty would be easiest to seal it up..
_________________
1973 1303 with AB-motor - sporadic
reconstruction as time permits, 1986 ex-Bundeswehr Doka - on the road again.

I'm definitely, probably, the worlds greatest lover.

Aithníonn ciaróg ciaróg eile.

[glutamodo]

That minor exhaust leak will not make your carburetor adjust any differently.

[carsdlt]

Yup...a leak like that on the INTAKE side would cause problems, but not on exhaust.
_________________
Thanx, DLT
'73 181 stock 1600 - "Dr. Bombay"

"If it works, don't fix it....let it break on its own."

[carsdlt]

Yup...a leak like that on the INTAKE side would cause problems, but not on exhaust.
_________________
Thanx, DLT
'73 181 stock 1600 - "Dr. Bombay"

"If it works, don't fix it....let it break on its own."

[legotech7]

The leak is at where it connects to the heat riser, Isn't that part of the intake?.
I'm thinking of doubling up on the gasket and perhaps using some of that permatex ultra copper gasket maker to seal it. I tried to compress the two flanges together with a pair of vice grips and tighten down the nuts a bit more but they wouldn't budge. I didn't want to break them off, but it didn't help much. I will try the gaskets and sealer and see what happens..

Thanks for all the suggestions.. I love Samba.....

[Cusser]

[Zundfolge1432]

No it's warm air exhaust for intake manifold heat.

[Cusser]

[MacLeod Willy]

X all the above.

I would grind the flange on the exhaust. It looks warped already anyway. If you have oxy.aceyt you could massage it into place easily.

Then look for a vacuum leak

[Zundfolge1432]

In a perfect world you can blow air from one side to the other on this preheat connections, but usually they are clogged with carbon deposits. Plenty of threads here on how to unclog using a length of cable chucked into a drill motor. If you do this turn clockwise only because if you go backwards it will unwind and break off inside. Some have had success using a torch to but the deposits out. The whole concept of the preheat is too prevent carburetor icing, when the system works your car runs better. The mismatch on the flange is due to the low quality exhaust, you could using a die grinder take the high spot down slightly then using a pair of needle nose vice grips and an awl clamp it down with no gasket. Heat that using the torch carefully yes it's going to burn the paint. Finally shitcan the metal gaskets and use the fiber type that come with header, you can even carefully sand that fiber gasket if need be. Go back to the parts store and get some copper coat exhaust flange donut gasket sealant. This should do it . Welcome to the world of ill fitting shitty Chinese replacement VW parts.

[legotech7]

Thank you gentlemen, for all the advise. I will try to use some heat and see if I can move that bottom flange into place, I'll use a second gasket, but I'll have to make the gasket from high heat gasket material, I think Napa sells it, if not, I'll have to order it... I hate having to wait for stuff in the mail, it takes forever to get here!.... Anyway, I'll have to remove the exhaust to do all that. Yes I realize the after market crap that being sold for OE is garbage,what are you gonna do, right?......

Again, thanks, and I'll post results when done..... Hopefully.......

[sb001]

[Zundfolge1432]

Try this, when installing a muffler even stock leave everything loose that includes heater boxes or j tubes. Start everything by hand then bring it all tight in stages, this also helps with sheet metal when building an engine. VW could have used floating nut plates but that would have cost more so try my suggestion.

[legotech7]

What makes me angry is some of the so called reputable vendors will tell you they are original German parts,( over the phone ) until they come to your door step, some of your stuff clearly marked MADE IN CHINA... How many times have I been on the phone with these idiots, this is not what I ordered...Won't mention who they are, but they suck.....Anyway, couldn't find the gasket material, so I'll have to order them. Again another week wasted...

[sb001]

[CBFLbikerider]

Just wait until the resistance you meet trying to send them back... at the very least it's a 20% restocking fee...[/quote]
And YOU have to pay the shipping to them.. Sounds like a Cal located company