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AAVeeDub
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Joined: August 30, 2011
Posts: 283
Location: Phoenix, Az
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 Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 12:22 pm Post subject: Quick engine noise question *edit* ADDED VIDEO |
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Hey guys, so I have a few very simple questions, and a video to diagnose a noise.
My his was out of commission a few days ago, I traced my ignition issue back to a fried electric ignition. Engine took kindly to a tune up, points, new distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires.. The whole 9.
Got a quick question about engine noises I have tho.
1) I have a tap-tap-tap from my valves, they're at six thou. I was told to put them at four thou. Is it better to set them at two thou when the engine is hot?
2) I lightly greased my shaft before putting it in... The points, I mean........
Still getting a whistle from the distributor tho, so I lived it up heavier. Still whistling. I'm using bearing grease. Should I use something else?
3) I've got a vibration when pressing the pedal slightly that goes away with higher RPMs. Ideas?
4) check out the video... Ive gotten this whistle every now and then and now its pretty loud. I can even hear it while I'm driving.
Link
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'74 ShagWagen
1700 tIV stocker
Dual Baby Webers
Last edited by AAVeeDub on Thu Feb 11, 2016 2:18 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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SGKent 
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Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 41031
Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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| Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 12:35 pm Post subject: Re: Quick engine noise question |
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if they are stock solid lifter valves with stock pushrods, .006". If you go less they may be quieter however the time the valve will sit on the seat will be less so the exhaust valves will run hotter which is not a good thing.
You can do a cylinder balance test at idle to see if the RPM drop is similar. That will tell you if all 4 cylinders are firing evenly at idle. You may have a little vacuum leak somewhere.
You put a very thin coating of distributor grease on the lobes. If they are rusty then you need to clean them with some 2000 grit wet and dry, then wipe them down good with a clean oily rag to get any grit off, then use the distributor grease on them. Also, you can put a tiny dab of it on the carbon brush in the center of the cap. Maybe it is chirping.
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AAVeeDub
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Joined: August 30, 2011
Posts: 283
Location: Phoenix, Az
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| Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 12:40 pm Post subject: Re: Quick engine noise question |
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Ok so leave them at six thou?
What do you mean the carbon brush? Are you saying the little points on the top of the distributor?
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'74 ShagWagen
1700 tIV stocker
Dual Baby Webers |
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SGKent
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 41031
Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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| Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 12:49 pm Post subject: Re: Quick engine noise question |
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| AAVeeDub wrote: |
Ok so leave them at six thou?
What do you mean the carbon brush? Are you saying the little points on the top of the distributor? |
inside the distributor cap there is a small piece of carbon that is usually spring loaded. It touches the rotor. Sometimes it squeaks. Do not use regular grease on it or the lobes. Use distributor lobe grease.
There is also a wick in the center of the shaft under the rotor. It is supposed to get a few drops of oil each time you service the distributor. If you have not done this put 7 to 10 drops of clean engine oil on it.
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AAVeeDub
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Joined: August 30, 2011
Posts: 283
Location: Phoenix, Az
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| Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 12:52 pm Post subject: Re: Quick engine noise question |
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Ok I'll go see if I can find dist. Lobe grease at the closest part store.
Thanks a lot!
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'74 ShagWagen
1700 tIV stocker
Dual Baby Webers |
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50352
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| Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 12:56 pm Post subject: Re: Quick engine noise question |
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If your valves stems are worn concave you can no longer set you valves accurately using a feeler gauge. If you set them at .006" they may actually be at .010 or even .014". If your stems are concave you either need to take a Dremel and flatten them back out or add lash caps. With a Dremel of course you have to protect everything for the grindings and make sure everything is 100% clean when you are done. You can also swap over to using swivel foot adjusters.
Another way is to set your valves by turning the adjusters in until there is no lash and then turning the adjusters back out ~1/7 of a full turn or ~54°. No way to check the lash once the nut is tightened down though so errors can creep in. |
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AAVeeDub
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Location: Phoenix, Az
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| Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 1:31 pm Post subject: Re: Quick engine noise question |
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@wildthings, so funny I just read your post on valve adjustments 30 seconds ago.
Fixed the vibration with my carb linkage. One was going before the other. Whoops.
Will make a 360 degree template today and adjust that way. I can make it work.
Was getting an extra whoop whoop with. Tight alt. Belt. Loosened it to ~15mm slack. Mmmmmm ☺️
I love productive days. 🤓
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'74 ShagWagen
1700 tIV stocker
Dual Baby Webers |
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50352
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| Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 1:52 pm Post subject: Re: Quick engine noise question |
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| AAVeeDub wrote: |
@wildthings, so funny I just read your post on valve adjustments 30 seconds ago.
Fixed the vibration with my carb linkage. One was going before the other. Whoops.
Will make a 360 degree template today and adjust that way. I can make it work.
Was getting an extra whoop whoop with. Tight alt. Belt. Loosened it to ~15mm slack. Mmmmmm ☺️
I love productive days. 🤓 |
Just hope I have my math correct.  My numbers assume you have 10x1mm adjusters. |
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SGKent
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Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 41031
Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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| Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 2:04 pm Post subject: Re: Quick engine noise question |
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| AAVeeDub wrote: |
@wildthings, so funny I just read your post on valve adjustments 30 seconds ago.
Fixed the vibration with my carb linkage. One was going before the other. Whoops.
Will make a 360 degree template today and adjust that way. I can make it work.
Was getting an extra whoop whoop with. Tight alt. Belt. Loosened it to ~15mm slack. Mmmmmm ☺️
I love productive days. 🤓 |
if you have dual carbs you need to sync them at idle then 1500 RPM then say 2500 RPM. It should be done using a tool that reads airflow thru the carb and not by ear.
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AAVeeDub
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| Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 3:24 pm Post subject: Re: Quick engine noise question |
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Speaking of carbs, I've got a whistle from the base of one. I replaced the throttle shaft seal on the them this weekend and when putting them on I realized they rocked back and forth before tightening. Would it be safe to assume my manifold is warped? Is this common on ICTs? I checked with a straight edge to see if the carbs were warped and they weren't... Thoughts?
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Dual Baby Webers |
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airschooled
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Joined: April 04, 2012
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Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 3:36 pm Post subject: Re: Quick engine noise question |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
...turning the adjusters back out ~1/7 of a full turn or ~54°...
Just hope I have my math correct. My numbers assume you have 10x1mm adjusters. |
I got 54° too. A Grapes of Wrath valve-adjustment technique for me when exploring a neglected Volkswagen has always been 1/6th of a turn, or 60* from zero. Use a valve adjuster jam nut to measure 1/6th of a turn, because each "point" on the nut = 60* of the circumference. Then as SOON as I get my feeler gauges, we do a proper .006" adjustment. 
Robbie
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Wildthings
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| Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 3:41 pm Post subject: Re: Quick engine noise question |
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| asiab3 wrote: |
| Wildthings wrote: |
...turning the adjusters back out ~1/7 of a full turn or ~54°...
Just hope I have my math correct. My numbers assume you have 10x1mm adjusters. |
I got 54° too. A Grapes of Wrath valve-adjustment technique for me when exploring a neglected Volkswagen has always been 1/6th of a turn, or 60* from zero. Use a valve adjuster jam nut to measure 1/6th of a turn, because each "point" on the nut = 60* of the circumference. Then as SOON as I get my feeler gauges, we do a proper .006" adjustment.
Robbie |
I have used that method as well it will theoretically give you a lash of just under .007" so is close enough and way better than what you might be getting when combining a feeler gauge with a badly concave valve stem end. |
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AAVeeDub
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Joined: August 30, 2011
Posts: 283
Location: Phoenix, Az
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| Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 8:18 pm Post subject: Re: Quick engine noise question *edit* ADDED VIDEO |
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Bump for video thoughts
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'74 ShagWagen
1700 tIV stocker
Dual Baby Webers |
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1967250s
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| Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 8:55 pm Post subject: Re: Quick engine noise question *edit* ADDED VIDEO |
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Kinda hard to hear anything over the noisy (leaky?) exhaust and a very short video. If there is a leaky base, a new gasket would probably fix it. Might be able to sand the base of the manifold smoother. Spray some carb cleaner around the joints and see if the idle changes. Might just be me, but idle seems a bit high and carbs not synced well enough. Should be a pretty smooth roll from idle to main jets.
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Tcash
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Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 9:22 pm Post subject: Re: Quick engine noise question *edit* ADDED VIDEO |
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| AAVeeDub wrote: |
1) I have a tap-tap-tap from my valves, they're at six thou. I was told to put them at four thou. Is it better to set them at two thou when the engine is hot?
Six is the spec. Make sure the adjuster tips are not worn out.
2) I lightly greased my shaft before putting it in... The points, I mean........
Still getting a whistle from the distributor tho, so I lived it up heavier. Still whistling. I'm using bearing grease. Should I use something else?
If it is whistling, the distributor shaft bushings are probably shot. You can try dropping some 3-in-1 down the top through the points plate.
Lubing the dist.
3) I've got a vibration when pressing the pedal slightly that goes away with higher RPMs. Ideas?
As suggested sync the carbs.
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AAVeeDub
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Joined: August 30, 2011
Posts: 283
Location: Phoenix, Az
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| Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 10:14 pm Post subject: Re: Quick engine noise question *edit* ADDED VIDEO |
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That's how my engine has always sounded, I didnt realize it was an exhaust leak, its just always been that way. Even after Dan and Competition engineering rebuilt my motor, it's always sounded that way.
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'74 ShagWagen
1700 tIV stocker
Dual Baby Webers |
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davada56
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Posts: 25
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| Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 10:38 pm Post subject: Re: Quick engine noise question *edit* ADDED VIDEO |
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| How did you synchronize your carbs? I'd look into that also I have a 2084cc and I run my valve lash at 0 lash as long as I can rotate the push rods there good but you must have chrome molly push rods to do that O lash and only in a broken in engine with at least 7k miles on it. Still check the valve lash as usual if concerned set it at .002 lash |
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