No brake lights, need electrical help

[deann]

I lost my brake lights when switching from 12 volt system to 6 volt on 1957 sedan. I have headlights, running lights, and one blinker.

-I did the brake light switch test - no brake lights
-put in all new 6 volt bulbs, and sanded the connections
-new 6 volt flasher
-all new fuses in both boxes, and sanded the connections
-checked both sides of fuse connections with a test light - OK

What do I need to do next? So frustrating!

[Blue Baron]

What do you mean by the brake light switch test? Did you jump across both connections with the ignition on?

6 to 12 volt shouldn't affect brake light action.
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[deann]

Yes, I did the stop light switch test on the master cylinder with the key on. Still no brake lights.

The car is now 6 volt with a 36 hp engine and 6 volt battery.

Any suggestions on what to do next?

[56reddy]

Try testing the circuit backwards from the bulb,until you find power. Make sure one of the wires going to the brake light switch has power.
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[catahoula lou]

I had a similar problem with my taillights on my 12V 1958 Karmann Ghia. Turned out that the ends of the corresponding fuse and fuse holders had enough oxidation that some things worked, taillights didn't.

Solution was to carefully wire-brush ends of all fuses/fuse holders and then spray with electrical connection protector. Had gone through entire taillight circuit and found out required just this simple solution...

Best,

Thom
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1 1958 pantina red Lowlight Ghia (the "Chili Pepper")

Still looking for:
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(3) My parent's agave green 1957 ragtop bug (CA license plate LFK 734).

[Snort]

Between the battery and the brake light bulbs there are a lot of electrical connections and with a six volt system they must all be in tip top shape for everything to work properly.

Start your troubleshooting by connecting together the two wires at your master cylinder switch so that you can test it without having to sit in the seat and push on the brake pedal. Don't forget to check all of the connections inside the turn signal switch as it controls all of the brake and turn signal functions.

Make sure your bulb holders and light housing brackets are properly grounded to the fender and that your fender has a good ground to the rest of the body. You can even run a wire from one of the housing bracket mounting studs to a fender bolt to assure a good ground. Once you get everything working properly, hook the wires up to the master cylinder switch again and you should be done.

[deann]

Thanks everyone for your suggestions!

I guess I am too much of an amateur to fix this. I spent a few hours in the garage today, and now I just want to drive the thing off a cliff.

[ZENVWDRIVER]

... you drive it off a cliff yet?

What I used to do, in the daytime, was pull my light switch on when I was stopping and push it in when foot off the brake pedal, till I fixed it.... any one behind me saw the tail lights and musta' thought they were the brake lights.
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[deann]

Good idea. I just want to drive the thing!

Someone took pity on me, and is bringing the electrical testing equipment over on Saturday. If that doesn't work, Plan B - pulling on the light switch!

[747frieghtdog]

Do yourself a favor, and order the LED light conversion for those snow flakes.

Is there power coming out of the switch? Out of the fuse block?

A bad ground is usually the culprit when you lose any electrical aspect in these old VW's, especially with the snow flakes.

Also, someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I do believe if you lose a ground on one light, you lose both.
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