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Trashman Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2016 Posts: 280 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Sat May 28, 2016 1:37 pm Post subject: Brake Light Problems |
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So my brake lights have not been working correctly and I traced all the wires and I found one that was loose on a connector. I tightened that up and the lights work fine except when I have the headlights on. When the headlights are on and I brake, only the right side brake light goes on and the running light goes off on the left with no brake light either. I've been over the wiring diagrams extensively and I cant seen to find anything wrong. The only thing I could think might be wrong would be something in the light switch or a relay. Any ideas? _________________ Bagged 1968 Neptune Blue "Deluxe" |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51123 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sat May 28, 2016 2:13 pm Post subject: Re: Brake Light Problems |
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Remove the left bulb and clean the socket out all nice and shiny, then clean and tighten both ends of the ground wire for that fixture. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Слава Україні! |
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Starbucket Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2007 Posts: 4023 Location: WA
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Posted: Sat May 28, 2016 2:22 pm Post subject: Re: Brake Light Problems |
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Sounds like a bad ground. Remove tail light assembly and clean area it mounts on and make sure the screw holes and screws aren't corroded, then remove each bulb and clean and polish the contact areas where the bulbs sit to make sure all bulbs are making a good connection (side and bottom), also remove each wire and polish connectors to insure they are making good connection. Now is a good time to replace all the bulbs back there as its not that much $$. I solved that problem on my '67 and '71 and greatly improved my rear lighting by removing everything and I made two 'U' brackets and mounted LED boat trailer lights using my stock lenses for the outside of the bus with longer screws that mount the lens to hold the 'U' brackets holding the trailer lights up next to the lens on the inside. 10 times brighter lights and turn signals and still looks stock from the outside. Less than $40 for everything and I saved the old reflectors and bulb assy.s incase I ever sell and the fool wants to change back. I feel so much safer and don't worry about some fool not seeing my old dim lights and rear ending my bus. |
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Trashman Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2016 Posts: 280 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Sun May 29, 2016 10:40 am Post subject: Re: Brake Light Problems |
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Okay, so I cleaned and polished both light sockets, connectors, grounds, and the connections on the bulbs. Still having the same problem. I looked at some of the diagrams for newer buses (70 and up) and I noticed that each of the tail light housings have their own ground wire where I only have that on my right tail light (I'm assuming because this housing is aftermarket). So I tried adding a ground wire to the left tail light housing since I thought it wouldn't hurt anything but to no avail, it did nothing. Anymore ideas anyone?
_________________ Bagged 1968 Neptune Blue "Deluxe" |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51123 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun May 29, 2016 11:35 am Post subject: Re: Brake Light Problems |
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Solder the wire directly to the outer part of the bulb socket, sometimes those aftermarket units lose continuity between the case and the socket where it's pressed in. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Trashman Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2016 Posts: 280 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Sun May 29, 2016 4:02 pm Post subject: Re: Brake Light Problems |
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Alright. So this time I soldered the ground wires to the bulb sockets on both tail lights and the problem is still there, except now its the left that works with the headlights on _________________ Bagged 1968 Neptune Blue "Deluxe" |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51123 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun May 29, 2016 4:11 pm Post subject: Re: Brake Light Problems |
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Something's still not making contact, possibly the bulb to socket shell.
What's happening here is the brake or tail light is using the other filament in the bulb as a ground path through the rest of the bulbs in that circuit, when you power that second circuit the ground is suddenly gone and the light no worky.
Those aftermarket fixtures are sketchy when they're new, the cure is a couple of universal snap in bulb sockets from your FLAPS.
http://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/un...02934_0_0/ _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
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Trashman Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2016 Posts: 280 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2016 11:28 am Post subject: Re: Brake Light Problems |
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So I think I might have found the issue. Since the problem only arises when the headlights are on, I thought I turn to the headlight switch. Turns out the rheostat in there is broken and I'm thinking that might be causing the problem so I'm looking at getting a new switch. If it isn't the switch, at least I will have a non-broken one. Since I have a 68, it is looking pretty hard to find a headlight switch in stock anywhere. I have seen a couple of these though but the pin orientation looks slightly different and the rheostat is on the opposite side as the one in the car.
Only 6 of the 8 pins on mine have wires on them though. My question is if this switch would work in my application or not. _________________ Bagged 1968 Neptune Blue "Deluxe" |
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Tom Powell Samba Member
Joined: December 01, 2005 Posts: 4855 Location: Kaneohe
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Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2016 11:43 am Post subject: Re: Brake Light Problems |
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68Transporter wrote: |
... the rheostat in there is broken ... |
That seems to be a common problem and will cause various types of wonkiness. My engine would only start or run with the switch in the parking light position. Turning the headlights on or the parking lights off would cause the engine to die. Very difficult to diagnose that problem, but very possibly not the source of your problems. The early bay light switches are a breeding ground for electrical gremlins.
Aloha
tp |
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Trashman Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2016 Posts: 280 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2016 1:12 pm Post subject: Re: Brake Light Problems |
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Found one on RockAuto with the corrected terminal layout and put in an order. Lets hope this works! _________________ Bagged 1968 Neptune Blue "Deluxe" |
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OB Bus Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2003 Posts: 2535 Location: Ocean Beach in Beautiful BLUE California
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Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2016 2:15 pm Post subject: Re: Brake Light Problems |
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The old rheostat in our 69 uncoiled and caused huge problems including shorts and burning inside the switch. Got a new switch and the first time I rotated it the rheostat uncoiled on it too. Everything else worked fine and the light dimmer was stuck in the "full on" position. So everything now works fine. _________________ Larry in OB
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69 Westfalia and 2002 Eurovan Camper. |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2016 4:28 pm Post subject: Re: Brake Light Problems |
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For the future
Broken rheostat
Good rheostat
OB Bus wrote: |
The old rheostat in our 69 uncoiled and caused huge problems including shorts and burning inside the switch. Got a new switch and the first time I rotated it the rheostat uncoiled on it too. Everything else worked fine and the light dimmer was stuck in the "full on" position. So everything now works fine. |
I would cut the wire out before it starts causing problems and leave it on full bright. Dimmer switch my ass there is only can't see and off anyway.
Tcash |
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Trashman Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2016 Posts: 280 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2016 4:38 pm Post subject: Re: Brake Light Problems |
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So you're saying that I should just remove the rheostat and just run it like that correct? It won't cause any problems other than the loss of the dimmer? _________________ Bagged 1968 Neptune Blue "Deluxe" |
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Tom Powell Samba Member
Joined: December 01, 2005 Posts: 4855 Location: Kaneohe
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Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2016 5:29 pm Post subject: Re: Brake Light Problems |
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68Transporter wrote: |
So you're saying that I should just remove the rheostat and just run it like that correct? It won't cause any problems other than the loss of the dimmer? |
Yes, but any pieces left inside might cause future problems and it may not solve your brake light problem.
Aloha
tp |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2016 7:01 pm Post subject: Re: Brake Light Problems |
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68Transporter wrote: |
So you're saying that I should just remove the rheostat and just run it like that correct? It won't cause any problems other than the loss of the dimmer? |
Yes
Tcash |
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Trashman Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2016 Posts: 280 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 9:21 am Post subject: Re: Brake Light Problems |
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So I got the new switch in today and I was wondering if there was any particular way that I should remove the rheostat so that it doesn't break into a bunch of little pieces. Any help Tcash? _________________ Bagged 1968 Neptune Blue "Deluxe" |
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telford dorr Samba Member
Joined: March 11, 2009 Posts: 3551 Location: San Diego (Encinitas)
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Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 9:35 am Post subject: Re: Brake Light Problems |
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You're saying you bought a new headlight switch? If so, run it as is.
Removing the rheostat is a method of successfully using an old switch.
Now that said, the headlight switch has nothing to do with brake lights. If you're still having brake light issues, get a test light and check the brake lamp signal back at the rear light fixture. If the test light lights (ignition on, brake pedal pressed), then the issue is in the fixture itself or its ground. If the test light doesn't light, the problem is upstream: turn switch, 4-way flasher switch, brake light switches, associated wiring.
Trace the signal. Divide and conquer! _________________ '71 panel, now with FI
'Experience' is the ability to recognize a mistake when you're making it again - Franklin P. Jones
In theory, theory works in practice; in practice, it doesn't - William T. Harbaugh
When you're dead, you don't know you're dead. The pain is only felt by others.
Same thing happens when you're stupid. - Philippe Geluck
More VW electrical at http://telforddorr.com/ (available 9am to 9pm PST) |
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Trashman Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2016 Posts: 280 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 9:43 am Post subject: Re: Brake Light Problems |
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I believe Tcash was saying to remove it right off the bat so that it can't cause any problems in the future. I will never use the dimmer feature so are you saying that I should not remove it since the rheostat will never been used and abused? _________________ Bagged 1968 Neptune Blue "Deluxe" |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 10:08 am Post subject: Re: Brake Light Problems |
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68Transporter wrote: |
I believe Tcash was saying to remove it right off the bat so that it can't cause any problems in the future. I will never use the dimmer feature so are you saying that I should not remove it since the rheostat will never been used and abused? |
No need to remove it on a new switch unless it breaks. I would leave it.
Use a small pair of diagonal cutters and cut the wire out.
Good luck
Tcash |
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