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1963 Notchback
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notchnem65
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 8:49 am    Post subject: Re: 1963 Notchback Reply with quote

I have a rear for sale in my ads.
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soupcups Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 10:14 am    Post subject: Re: 1963 Notchback Reply with quote

Alright, so those are both early fronts, the one on top is upside down. Thank you all for the info. And the offer of pics. Much appreciated.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2016 11:23 pm    Post subject: Re: 1963 Notchback Reply with quote

Hello again, I'm back with more questions. And I finally got it right by just adding to my already started post. So I was wondering if anyone knows where to get the armrests recovered. (I found a full set on here.) I don't mean with cheap vinyl but with the original material. It looks like it's shrink wrapped on there or something. I've heard of some place that can do dashes with that type of job but I didn't get the name of the place.

Thanks everyone,

Jim
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Erik G
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 7:49 am    Post subject: Re: 1963 Notchback Reply with quote

Just dashes - http://www.justdashes.com/

It's not going to be cheap at all - you might be better off buying good ones that you can use. also, they cannot match the grain of the original dash. It looks nice but it's not correct. I'm going to assume the arm rests are the same

and you know they are supposed to be grey not black right? just making sure. do you have the door top pieces to mate to the dash?
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 9:00 am    Post subject: Re: 1963 Notchback Reply with quote

Thanks for the info. I was hoping it was going to be that expensive and they could match the grain but not so fortunate I guess. Yes, I have the two padded trim pieces that will be in decent shape, not requiring covering, they're on their way from Bavaria. Also I have the two rear armrests and the front. I've skinned them already cuz they were in bad shape. I also have the rear upper trim pieces for the rear. Not easy to find those pieces without them being hammered so I'd guess it'd be very difficult to find them in useable shape. Yes I know they're supposed to be grey. I have the originals but they were missing foam and covering in places. I've kinda figured out how to repair the foam and I can see it wont be that hard to recover them. Thanks for the info. Appreciate it.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2016 11:48 pm    Post subject: Re: 1963 Notchback Reply with quote

Ok. So I'm stumped as to part numbers for the entire ignition switch assembly and what to even look for. I've come across an ad on here for type 3 ignitions with the part numbers 311 905 863A and it looks like what I need. The back (rear) part of the ignition seems to be there where the wires are soldered on but the front part with the key slot is missing. Can anyone advise me on what the part number(s) are for what I'm looking for and what I'm actually looking for? I haven't taken it apart yet but I'm thinking I'm gonna have to but again, I have no idea what I'm looking for. Came across the forum entitled ignition switch revisited but I couldn't gleam what I need from it. Also, anyone know the part number of the turn signal switch? Thanks. As always I greatly appreciate any help.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2016 11:50 pm    Post subject: Re: 1963 Notchback Reply with quote

Also there is an ad on here for the ignition cylinders 311 905 855 and 311 905 855A. Would I need either of these parts if so which one?
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MonT3
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 12:32 am    Post subject: Re: 1963 Notchback Reply with quote

If memory serves me, looking at my pic for reference (disregard the yellow arrow), you should be able to access a locking mechanism that holds the ignition switch in place and free it to be removed.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

This can be done from the hole inside that curved block (upper right side) that is screwed into the inner column to secure the whole ignition switch. A small flat head screw driver can be inserted thru the hole, pushing the small armature inward to free the switch. The armature will have to be kept down (under spring tension) while pulling the end out. Being that your ignition keyhole area looks to have been drilled or something, it may be a challenge to get that out. Either the inner ring or that side should come out. I’ve done this with my 67 but am unsure if the 63 is similar. Once that piece is out, you can confirm the part# on it. Have a look and see if the above makes sense. Good luck. I think you can get that out the above way.
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ataraxia
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 6:06 am    Post subject: Re: 1963 Notchback Reply with quote

In MonT3's photo:

The flat head screw at the 12 o'clock position will need to be removed to allow the ignition switch to slide out once you defeat the steering column lock. The aluminum block will slide out (toward you) once you remove the screw.

Honestly - the whole column is looking suspect to me given that it was painted with little to no masking. There's a lot that's got paint on it that shouldn't. If you leave it alone - don't be surprised that once you fix/replace the ignition switch that the turn signals don't work because the contacts are covered in paint. If you're going to take it apart - do it once and make sure you cover all of your bases so you don't have to do it again...unless you like that sort of thing.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 9:47 am    Post subject: Re: 1963 Notchback Reply with quote

Awesome info. Thank you. I do tend to have to do things twice when I work on anything. But it's not cuz I like to. Hust always seems that way. That's why I don't tie my shoes anymore. Too frustrating. Haha. I will most likely take that apart now that I have that info to get the part numbers. I was a little worried about the fact that EVERYTHING had been painted. Not sure what some people who paint are thinking. Paint it all. Let god sort it out. ? Alright well what about the little ignition cylinder that the key goes in to? Would that have a part number on it cuz my whole cylinder is missing. It may be the only part missing and other than the liberal use of paint may be the only thing wrong with it. Those two things and the fact the turn signal switch is missing. I guess the positive to that is I don't have to worry about the turn signals working.

Thanks again.
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dirtslinger
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:16 am    Post subject: Re: 1963 Notchback Reply with quote

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InRDF_0lfHk
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 12:16 pm    Post subject: Re: 1963 Notchback Reply with quote

Simply awesome Andy. I actually thought it was going to be a video on how to dismantle the parts or something. I thought to myself YouTube is amazing. They have everything on there. Instead I got to laugh and enjoy myself. That was hilarious. Well played Andrew. Well played indeed.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 12:48 pm    Post subject: Re: 1963 Notchback Reply with quote

I couldn't pass it up.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 1:27 pm    Post subject: Re: 1963 Notchback Reply with quote

I don't blame you.
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MonT3
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 9:55 pm    Post subject: Re: 1963 Notchback Reply with quote

ataraxia wrote:
In MonT3's photo:

The flat head screw at the 12 o'clock position will need to be removed to allow the ignition switch to slide out once you defeat the steering column lock. The aluminum block will slide out (toward you) once you remove the screw.

Honestly - the whole column is looking suspect to me given that it was painted with little to no masking. There's a lot that's got paint on it that shouldn't. If you leave it alone - don't be surprised that once you fix/replace the ignition switch that the turn signals don't work because the contacts are covered in paint. If you're going to take it apart - do it once and make sure you cover all of your bases so you don't have to do it again...unless you like that sort of thing.


I didn’t recommend removing the ignition as a whole as I don’t know the level of experience soupcups has dealing with the column. I agree the column is suspect and the wiring or re-wiring wouldn’t be a bad idea. The ignition could be cleaned up and put back in with the replacement switch.

Soup, if you decide to go that route, take a look some of my pics half way down this page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...start=480. It’ shows what’s on the other side of the brown cover that has been painted black on your ignition. If you decide to pull the thing, you can go about one of two ways:
Option1 - Slowly slide the ignition cylinder out after you have moved the piece ataraxia spoke about BUT make sure you pull the wires thru and have slack as you do it or the end will come apart the small springs and such will come out.
Option2 – Use a soldering pen and heat up the solder point to free the wires. There maybe 3 or 4 of them there. Once the wires are free, you can remove the wires separate or replace them as needed (If you have the proper gauge replacement wire available).

This link http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...start=1140 shows some detail on what you may look for in inspecting your turn signal arm.
This link http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...start=1260 shows some for the connections of your column wiring.
Whatever you decide to do, post pics as there are people here that will help you along the way. Good luck and post them pics!
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2016 6:07 am    Post subject: Re: 1963 Notchback Reply with quote

MonT3 wrote:
ataraxia wrote:
In MonT3's photo:

The flat head screw at the 12 o'clock position will need to be removed to allow the ignition switch to slide out once you defeat the steering column lock. The aluminum block will slide out (toward you) once you remove the screw.

Honestly - the whole column is looking suspect to me given that it was painted with little to no masking. There's a lot that's got paint on it that shouldn't. If you leave it alone - don't be surprised that once you fix/replace the ignition switch that the turn signals don't work because the contacts are covered in paint. If you're going to take it apart - do it once and make sure you cover all of your bases so you don't have to do it again...unless you like that sort of thing.


I didn’t recommend removing the ignition as a whole as I don’t know the level of experience soupcups has dealing with the column. I agree the column is suspect and the wiring or re-wiring wouldn’t be a bad idea. The ignition could be cleaned up and put back in with the replacement switch.


I got that he was looking for the part number on the ignition switch - it's typically under where the aluminum block mounts to the switch. The switch can't be fixed while it's still in the column...
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2016 8:12 am    Post subject: Re: 1963 Notchback Reply with quote

Thanks guys. I have some experience with working on bugs but not a new to me notch ignition. Thanks for the info and I will definitely use the provided info and post pics along the way. I've already done so many things I had no idea how to do from this site and the members and their instructions. I would have been lost on this ignition I think. My method is to just take everything apart slowly and take pics along the way to see how it goes back together; buy og parts to replace what's worn or broken; save every part I remove; and repair and reinstall the parts. This will help immensely.

Thanks again.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 11:05 pm    Post subject: Re: 1963 Notchback Reply with quote

Ok. Need some more help. Redoing the interior on the notchback. I wanted to know if anyone knows whether or not the front seat backrests have the piece that goes on the back like the bugs do. I don't know what it's made of but I made some for the bug interior I built but I don't know if the type 3's have those pieces or not.

Its this cardboard looking piece that's on the bug interior.


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Wonder if anyone has any pics of what they are supposed to look like as well as if they are supposed to be there.

The reason I ask is because the TMI seat covers I have for the car are very loose fitting. I build my own padding out of either 1 or 2" foam but the covers seem loose. But just the backrest piece.

Thanks, as always.
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